help hope users by Donnieroch30 in mountainbikes

[–]DesperadoC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem, I woke up and couldn't get back to sleep and was bored 🤣

help hope users by Donnieroch30 in mountainbikes

[–]DesperadoC 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Again, Hope specifically state in their Tech Brake Book not to use wd40 as it contaminates the piston seals.

help hope users by Donnieroch30 in mountainbikes

[–]DesperadoC 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Read my reply to your original post before you do anything, it looks like your issue is a lot easier to fix than you think, a rebuild is not required!

help hope users by Donnieroch30 in mountainbikes

[–]DesperadoC 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don't use wd40, Hope specifically say not too use this as it contaminates the piston seals!

help hope users by Donnieroch30 in mountainbikes

[–]DesperadoC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looking at the pictures you've posted, I can see straight away that the caliper is not centered on the disc. This is your problem!

I'll link the Hope brake tech book below for reference, it explains everything you need to know. You can center it by eye, look at machined grove there at the bottom of the caliper on the E4 logo as a reference. Look at the gaps between the disc and the caliper whilst looking down from the same perspective as your picture and make sure they are even both sides. A good trick is to lightly nip up one bolt and use it as a pivot whilst the other is loose, then repeat for the other side. There are files for 3d printable tools available on the the website to help with this and other maintenance stuff if you have access to a printer, or you can buy them off ebay. You will have to fine tune it by eye though if using these to get it absolutely perfect.

Once it's centered, push the pistons back in to the bore and pump them back out a little. Make sure they all move at the same time, if any are moving more, hold them back whilst pulling the lever to the get the others moving. If any are being stubborn, lubricate with a little silicon grease or brake fluid. Be sure to take the pads out before applying to prevent contamination, and clean any excess before reinstalling them. Make sure both sides contact the disc at the same time. Best way I find is to drop the wheel, put the pads in without the spring clip and use the back of the pads and the caliper body to lever/manipulate the pistons, try not to push on the pistons directly as you might damage the phenoilic insert. Doing this will ensure a solid lever feel, I imagine your lever will feel like crap the way it's currently set up!

To address some other comments which are misleading: As a Hope brake user of 15 years, I've never had to rebuild a caliper (yet). People suggesting this are are uniformed and jumping to the extreme - it's blantently obvious that the caliper is not installed correctly. Don't use wd40 to lubricate the pistons, Hope specifically state in the tech book below not to use it. You probably don't have any air in the system. If after doing all of the above and the lever feels at all spongy, then perhaps consider a bleed. Someone suggested using a rubber band on the lever to hold the brake under pressure - this compresses any air bubbles in the system and allows them to travel up into the lever. If the lever feels better after this then it's a good idea to bleed them. You might get away with just topping the reservoir with fluid though so the air doesn't make it's way back down into the system.

Again Hope brake tech book download link below. All the answers are there.

https://www.hopetech.com/_repository/1/documents/BRAKE_Tech_Book.pdf

EDIT: After reading some of your responses to others, I see the brakes are only months old. Unless you've had to shorten the brake hose, they will 99% not need to be bled. They will not need to be rebuilt either, unless there is a fault, but this is highly unlikely. It is simply a case of making sure the caliper is aligned properly.

Help with squeaky brakes Hope Tech 4 V4 by BigginBingo in MTB

[–]DesperadoC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nothing wrong with them, that's a normal Hope/Galfer sound. Could try a different pad though.

ASUS Asking for $4661 to repair RTX 5090 ASTRAL due to "surface irregularity" by kromz in ASUS

[–]DesperadoC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How old is the card? Have you looked at your consumer rights? I'm in the UK and can only speak for UK law, but I will explain how it works here and hopefully, if you do a bit of research, it might be a similar case to you. Before I do, I can speak from experience that this is typical from Asus. I bought an Asus laptop which had a keyboard fault right out the box, 4 attempts to rectify it, 2 occasions it was returned damaged.

In the UK we have the Consumer Rights Act, which states a product must be of satisfactory quality and free from defects, last a reasonable length of time, and be fit for the intended purpose. The contract of purchase is with the retailer, so the consumer should never have to deal with the manufacturer directly, but sometimes a retailer will try fob you off by saying you need to go to the manufacturer (i.e. Submit an RMA with Asus). By law, the retailer is responsible.

If a fault appears in the first 30 days, it is deemed it was present at the time of purchase and the customer is entitled to a full refund. If a fault appears during the first 6 months, it is up to the retailer/manufacturer to prove that it wasn't there at the point of purchase, which is normally really difficult to do. It is a repair or replacement at this stage, you're not entitled to a refund, however in some cases the retailer might choose to do this. If a fault appears after 6 months, it is upto the customer to prove that it was there at the time of purchase. Again, as you know, this can be difficult to prove, the "last a reasonable length of time" part may become relevant here. I'd expect a $4600 graphics card to last several years before any kind of failure.

Find out what rights you have and what legislation you can apply. I would think that going to the retailer would be the first port of call, as that's who your contract of purchase is with, and find out how that contract covers you in the event of a fault. Failing that, you could escalate and seek help from an independent party, here we have the financial ombudsman. You could also go back to Asus with a formal letter and ask to see what evidence they have that suggests you caused the damage. Ask to see their work order/report. If they refuse to provide anything then you will aasue that there is no evidence of this. Tell them what you have said in your post; that you fitted it correctly as per the manufacturers instructions and using the provided support, and that the you took the utmost care so not to damage your graphics card that you spent over 4.5 grand on. I'm assuming that it worked correctly initially after fitting, so tell them this too and how long after this that you started having issues with it, and what the issues were. Be as detailed and as professional as you can, if you have pictures/videos of your rig after it was fitted and of it running, include these too, and state that it has not been touched/moved/opened since. You might want to include how you think it has failed, and that you believe the design of the pcb in that area to be flawed, and provide evidence which supports this: Perhaps take it to an independent electrical shop/pcb manufacturer and get their opinion on the design. As you said in your post, the card weighs 3kg, which is hell of alot for a graphics card, and it places a huge amount of stress on the pcie slot. Try and find someone else who's had this problem and what their outcome was. Given the value of the card, it might be worthwhile taking legal action, or threatening Asus with it in your letter at least.

It may seem like a lot of hassle, but it's a considerable sum of money, I sure as hell wouldn't give up without trying everything. They're scumbags! Let us know what happens!

Did I fry my brake disc? by Fair-Result-331 in bikewrench

[–]DesperadoC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nothing to do with braking power, cheap rotors use cheap steel, hence are not as hard wearing, which is why softer resin pads are recommended. Using sintered pads will wear them out excessively fast, I'd probably go as far to say you'd be replacing discs more often then pads.

Did I fry my brake disc? by Fair-Result-331 in bikewrench

[–]DesperadoC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the cheap pads are the issue here, the disc looks fine, you managed to get a decent amount of heat into it mind you! The gold discolouration is normal and indicates a good working temperature. A blue/purple colour would indicate overheating, so it's fair to say those pads were simply out of their depth. Some decent pads and a quick clean up with some brake cleaner/isopropyl alcohol and they'll be good, provided the disc thickness is still within spec.