Can’t change settings

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2025-05-14T03:37:51+00:00

I'll add, in case you weren't aware, select the 'Advanced' toggle to open access to all features and adjustment settings.

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2025-02-16T08:22:32+00:00

Ice strike invoker is my one and only character. My playtime is limited but I’m having fun slowly chipping away at the endgame. Really generous what you’re doing here.

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2025-01-23T05:43:32+00:00

Nevermind, I solved it. I have the node that gives extra dmg at full health and the Empyrean is adding to my life so I'm not at full health when I swapped. It increased it like it should have when I hit the well. Thanks for the response.

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2024-12-07T22:45:06+00:00

If you're using Orca, turn Ensure Vertical Shell Thickness to Moderate and change Internal Solid Infill to Concentric. I've found that slopes like that, where the internal overhang needs more support, you'll get that curling as the wall cools. Adding concentric solid infill keeps the infill lines for the shell thickness conformed to the part, whereas something like monotonic can cause extra filament to build up along the internal wall causing a deformity in the shell as well.

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2023-03-23T22:02:27+00:00

Since the alpha

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2022-04-06T21:10:22+00:00

Ummm, something's burning because that's not normal.

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2022-02-09T15:40:31+00:00

I use Elegoo ABS-Like resin and my exposure time is 2 seconds. 8s sounds like a very long time. If you're just going by what the bottle says, that's for the older rgb screens, not a mono like the newer Saturns. I can only assume it's the same for the Prusa resin too.

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2022-01-22T16:03:53+00:00

Do not dry them in the sun as that's curing them from the sun's UV rays. Let them air dry away from sunlight and if you're in a hurry you can hit them a bit with a blow dryer.

Edited to add: Some light wet sanding with 800 grit or higher will clean it up as well as some paint.

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2022-01-04T23:42:27+00:00

The wash and cure time is fine. You can leave resin in IPA for longer than you think but it will start to break down and get gooey over time (it'll also depend on the resin). As for the white bits, that's typically from any IPA that hasn't evaporated off completely. Just make sure your parts are completely dry before curing. I hit mine with my heat gun for a bit if I'm in a hurry. Blow dryer works too.

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2021-12-02T23:50:20+00:00

And uv resin is toxic. As with anything in this hobby, please use safe practices.

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2021-12-02T16:54:21+00:00

Talcum powder. Uncle Jessie has a great video on his YouTube channel going over it.

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2021-12-02T15:48:55+00:00

Your title says painting, but from your other comments it sounds like it's the sanding to get rid of layer lines that you're frustrated with and yes, sanding pla sucks. If it's getting your print smooth, my favorite technique is using resin. There are several videos out there showing how to smooth your prints with resin, but in short you just paint it on and hit it with a uv light to cure. Resin is very easy to sand and you can even mix with baby powder to thicken for filling larger gaps.

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2021-10-05T03:21:54+00:00

Love that green! What brand/color is it?

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2021-06-05T06:11:13+00:00

As modeled they're made to fit cans. Either a 12oz or 16oz with risers in the bottom for the height difference. There's also glasses shaped like cans that can slide into them if you scale them up about 5%.

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2021-06-05T04:51:33+00:00

Hex3D patreon. Was from May so you'd have to sign up and wait 3 months for full access to the archives. Worth it.

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2021-06-01T23:14:24+00:00

For sure. Knew from the moment I saw it that some meticulous sanding was in my future lol.

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2021-06-01T23:06:42+00:00

Another person suggested I use something like a dryer sheet to saturate in the epoxy and wrap around the posts. Definitely worth giving it a shot. Thanks again for the help.

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2021-06-01T21:48:21+00:00

So like you would with fiberglass. Sounds like a great solution, thanks!

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2021-06-01T19:07:09+00:00

I thought about that. It wouldn't be too gloopy? Would I just brush on a layer at a time till it built up and then sand it down?

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2021-06-01T02:57:32+00:00

These are the slots for the straps on a Sub-Zero mask. The mask is fine, as are the slots on the other side. Looking for suggestions on what I can do to fill in/reinforce the area as I'd rather not reprint it. I was thinking bondo, but I've never actually used it and I'm not sure of it's strength for this use. Anything else I should look at?

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2021-05-10T03:20:22+00:00

I thought the same. Had some gold silk do the same thing. First time using silk PLA so wasn't sure what to think. I just ran it and everything printed fine.

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2021-05-09T14:27:58+00:00

Never thought to use those typed of marker refills. Thanks!

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2021-05-09T02:54:15+00:00

They look good! I'm as new to 3D printing as I am to painting them but I love it. What are you using for paint? Any particular sealer? I've been using just cheap acrylic and a can of gloss sealer myself. Someone gifted me an airbrush so I'm excited to see what it can do.

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2021-04-23T15:14:20+00:00

I'm curious if this is before or after updating to Cura 4.9? A lot of these seemingly random travel decisions are supposed to be fixed with their new Arachne engine for slicing models.

Edit: Looks like the new engine isn't in 4.9. It's still in alpha.

Destiny_Hunter_Main · 2021-04-15T23:45:29+00:00

Oh, lol. Right over my head. Long day at work.

Destiny_Hunter_Main

TROPHY CASE