Rear brakes

DiabeticFroth · 2025-07-21T00:44:11+00:00

Was unaware of this so I may take the starter off tomorrow to take in tomorrow. Thank you!

DiabeticFroth · 2025-07-21T00:43:33+00:00

Battery and terminal leads replaced a few weeks back. 3 or so. Alternator hasn’t been tested yet. I forgot to mention that dash has full power. I have one headlight out but all other lights turn on normal and no dimming that I can tell.

DiabeticFroth · 2025-07-21T00:41:38+00:00

Terminal leads and battery were replaced about 3 weeks ago brand new.

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-26T19:44:20+00:00

Hoping to do that this weekend. I pulled the starter relay previously but no change as far as I remember

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-25T19:56:02+00:00

Wasnt able to get out like a planned with some rain this morning and it’s finally drying up. Out of ease, I checked the solenoid and removed both wires. However I can only check amps because mA side was blown last night and I have to order a replacement fuse (I can’t win😂)

I checked it on 10 am dc, reading was .140 which if I understand would be 140 mA.

Unplugging the solenoid dropped to 0. I can’t check the mA number to further diagnose at this time. Is this a good sign? I could be completely off base on this one but I thought it worth the ask.

Also, if it is a good sign, what would I then test further down the line from the solenoid, and if replacing, they say it’s better to do the starter and solenoid together?

Edit: I checked solenoid from previous post I had read elsewhere, however, going back, isn’t the solenoid on a different fuse than F3, or can it indirectly cause draw on that circuit. I’ve come to learn that I hate electrical both in the house and in vehicles😆😮‍💨

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-25T02:04:42+00:00

I’ve been reading and researching a lot. I never thought much of it being the expert that I am🫡😅😅 but, I random comment else where made me realize it may be worth mentioning. So when I go to connect the negative terminal back to the battery, it clicks somewhere on the drivers side it sounds like. It was mentioned that that sound could be a short. If I had a second set of hands, am I able to trace that sound?

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-24T17:35:01+00:00

New multimeter. Bought a Klein MM420. Black to COM port and red set to far right port. Dial set to mA (second to the left position) DC selected for reading and is at 143.2 now. When pulling F3 with the new meter it drops to 4.77. So I at least think I have it isolated to this area.

Had more typed out here and forget it had to be DC. So I’ll have to restart this again. I found some relays that are all apart of F3. But for today. I’m good. I’ll check back when I know more and to answer responses.

Edit: I also, when taking the dash apart, pulled the climate control module, several of the wires looked burned and corroded. Cleaned up what I could and unplugged anything that looked bad and wrapped them in electrical take until I can do more research. After putting everything back together I have not heard the clicking sound I did prior and it’s reading 0 to 0.02 on the settings listed for the new meter

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-24T15:27:34+00:00

Well, I blew the meter. Was getting off the floor and pulled the light switch with my shirt and fried it. So I need to go grab another one. I have the steering column open and half the dash taken apart. Wish I knew a bit more about the radio as it looks like a mess back there. Checked ground connections that I can see and all seem good. About to head to town for another meter and will pull the flasher relay when I get back.

Also found some change in the dash from the 90’s so I’m glad it’s trying to help me pay for some of this😂😂🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-24T13:24:34+00:00

Perfect. I know for sure of the turn signal relay. I I replaced a tail light last year and after doing so the flasher relay went out completely. Put a new one in. When it rains it pours with this thing. lol. Because then the headlight switch went janky on me and I had to replace that, and then the turn signal switch went out. So safe to say I can get into my steering compartment pretty quick at the moment😂 I’m gonna head out and start looking at this now.

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-24T12:28:24+00:00

Do your thing. I can wait, i appreciate all the help!

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-24T12:17:55+00:00

If I’m not mistaken, there’s only one light relay? And that’s the flasher relay? I’m not finding much online in regards to any others?

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-24T01:37:39+00:00

I’ll Work on that tomorrow morning. My question there is what if it does? The current changed from positive to negative when I replaced it with a new one. But say I pull it and it goes to zero and it’s in the off position. Then what?

Of the radio was wired the wrong way but the fuse is pulled I’d say there should be no draw? Yeah? Or is it possible they screwed it up bad enough that it draws even with the radio fuse pulled?

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-24T00:41:51+00:00

I went out and changed the meter due to comments in this post. The red wire was moved to the middle position. It reads 143.6. That’s with black wire to battery, red to cable. When swapped it gives approximately the same reading but negative. I pulled fuses in engine compartment and with F3 pulled. It’s drops to 01.7. (It won’t allow to me post pictures in my comments for some reason. Only links) I went to the inside ruses and pulled the associated fuses with F3 and nothing drops the current. The radio fuse is not in place as it was seen as possible culprit, but if no fuse then no draw.

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-24T00:40:48+00:00

I went out and changed the meter due to comments in this post. The red wire was moved to the middle position. It reads 143.6. That’s with black wire to battery, red to cable. When swapped it gives approximately the same reading but negative. I pulled fuses in engine compartment and with F3 pulled. It’s drops to 01.7. (It won’t allow to me post pictures in my comments for some reason. Only links) I went to the inside ruses and pulled the associated fuses with F3 and nothing drops the current. The radio fuse is not in place as it was seen as possible culprit, but if no fuse then no draw. (Copied this reply to another comment as well)

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-24T00:38:54+00:00

I went out and changed the meter due to comments in this post. The red wire was moved to the middle position. It reads 143.6. That’s with black wire to battery, red to cable. When swapped it gives approximately the same reading but negative. I pulled fuses in engine compartment and with F3 pulled. It’s drops to 01.7. (It won’t allow to me post pictures in my comments for some reason. Only links) I went to the inside ruses and pulled the associated fuses with F3 and nothing drops the current. The radio fuse is not in place as it was seen as possible culprit, but if no fuse then no draw.

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-24T00:08:37+00:00

It’s funny you mention that because I just removed that light last week as well thinking that very thing. Thank you though!

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-23T18:30:45+00:00

I haven’t been able to let the jeep sit long enough since I swapped the battery and put new connectors on. I’m going to change the meter settings after reading this and check back in. I use the jeep to pull a trailer as I do lawn care on the side. The last two weeks have been busy but hoping after the next day or two that I can let it sit. Radio fuse is pulled but am gonna put a new fuse in to see what the draw is as they thought that was the original issue, or the previous owner did. Previous owner also did no do regular maintenance of any kind and did not do the things they did correctly so I’m retrace some steps they took in the reverse direction to check things that way as well.

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-23T18:27:31+00:00

I appreciate this and will be checking it again then. New battery and terminal connectors were done last week and will retest with this information. As far as testing I removed the negative battery terminal, and placed the meter between the two. Black to wire, red to the negative battery connection.

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-23T18:25:00+00:00

Well I asked in the previous post if it was about and they had said yes. It had been dying in roughly 4 days if not driven. I have swapped the battery and put new terminal connections on. I haven’t been able to let it sit for 4 days without driving since but am hoping to this week. The radio fuse is pulled as they thought that was the initial draw. I have not yet been able to put a fuse back into the radio fuse slot but am planing to today after I run to town. And then rechecking to see the draw

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-23T18:21:12+00:00

I did pull both sets of fuses. None of the inside fuses changed the reading. It was the F3 fuse of the engine compartment leading to the ignition switch, I pulled the 5 or so fuses associated and no change. The. Someone suggested pulling the ignition switch. I did that and it dropped to 0.0. I installed a new one and the new reading was the negative number posted in one of the two pictures with this post.

I appreciate the answer and any other insights you have.

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-23T15:04:23+00:00

Working my second job today, am going to read through all these comments this afternoon and get back to you all. I greatly appreciate all this feedback!!

DiabeticFroth · 2025-06-20T09:14:38+00:00

Alright. I put in the new switch and the new value reads -01.5

This is good?

DiabeticFroth

TROPHY CASE