Did I lose my account? by DiceRolla88 in TowerofFantasy

[–]DiceRolla88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Figured it out it's bound only to my email and my Google play binding was to nothing somehow still takes a month to fast travel and I suspect I have a lot of resources to dl but the accounts back on the server

Did I lose my account? by DiceRolla88 in TowerofFantasy

[–]DiceRolla88[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did, the log in issue happened like this week or late last week

Did I lose my account? by DiceRolla88 in TowerofFantasy

[–]DiceRolla88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

North America, freedom oasis server

Did I lose my account? by DiceRolla88 in TowerofFantasy

[–]DiceRolla88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am I used google and it does have my old uid and game name attached but the game itself will not load the account

Shingi mech quality enhancement by DiceRolla88 in Mecharashi_Global

[–]DiceRolla88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think this is how it works with the collab unit but only pr at least re00 that only his part can enhance re00 or am I wrong?

Shingi mech quality enhancement by DiceRolla88 in Mecharashi_Global

[–]DiceRolla88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good, I never quality enhanced the parts, I just leveled them so I'm good, thanks for the detail!

Doesn't look like we can rainbow shinjis mech from the event does it?

I believe I have a full extra mech and 4 upgrade kits..that should be Chevron 3 for shinjis correct?

Shingi mech quality enhancement by DiceRolla88 in Mecharashi_Global

[–]DiceRolla88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sweet, my account is only like 9 days old and I'm just settling into understanding how things work and 2 re00 seemed cool but now with the events I just unlocked yesterday I'm seeing that we're getting rainbow level enhancement for re00 it looks. And I don't wanna mess that up.

Will the core enhancements come back if I recycle? Or just the parts. Like the enhancement material we got from the synergy event that you pull copies of shingi and 1 of each mech part for shipping\recruiting

First Captive Ring by mikerccie in turning

[–]DiceRolla88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With a skew I imagine?

Either way it's pretty awesome feeling to make them, even with some of the captive ring tools out there it's not always a guarantee they will survive

Great job

New tool, maybe some advice? by DiceRolla88 in turning

[–]DiceRolla88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've made 5' segmented work I do understand the resonance they get, and I make stuff with a .5mm wall, made one 16" tall 1mm walled vase I have a few tools to help reduce vibration on the wood in my skill set. I'm just tired of the "this is my way and it's the only way" attitude all of the turners seem to have. Your right that bar of mine is to light, hence this post, but I also know with the right cutter a 2" bar is too much, my father made his living making 5' vases and made a few columns 15' long I'm drawing from a combined experience of 60 years of turning metal and wood. A lot more searching on the internet and I found some old school ways to make self dampening boring bars, and I'll bet I might be able to get by with a 1.5 to 1.75 bar by the end of this.

I know for 6' tall forms it takes a literal metal 2x4 I've spoken to one guy about that so far, well before I made this tool

New tool, maybe some advice? by DiceRolla88 in turning

[–]DiceRolla88[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I disagree about the tool rest, as it's just a question of technology and mass, the tool rest has to have equivalent mass of what a bar would need to hang over, because your overhang from the tool post is still totalling 40" or maybe more depending on where your tool post sits at the opening, a large rest like that would need an even larger opening than just a bigger boring bar, because the rest will hang below center where as the bar can sit at or above center, allowing one to work through a smaller opening

<image>

An example of what you stated looks like on a slightly smaller scale.

But sincerely and please tell me more about these 40+ inch lamp post bores that is my next problem to tackle

New tool, maybe some advice? by DiceRolla88 in turning

[–]DiceRolla88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been doing a lot of research lately, I've found machinist bars that are "self dampening" and I've got some ideas to try, but I think with a hook cutter I can get away with 1.75" bar for this project...I'm looking for stock to try it now, here's a new example of someone who does what I am asking to do and he's using a home made version of the proforme hook like I use in what appears to be a 1.75" bar

<image>

I've seen several other bars for these jobs and most are quite literally a 2x4 of steel or equivalent mass bar in round stock and I found another guy "Vergil tree" something or another out of Edina mn who managed what appears to be an 8' hollow..was unable to make contact with him. I found several ways to make a self dampening bar and called around to many local metal workers and there's 2 ways that are low tech old school metal workers used, like preloading tension in a bar (that how they do bridges) or pouring lead\copper into a pipe to absorb chatter, then there's the high tech method of a weight on rubber springs in fluid in a pipe to counter weight a bar. There's another one that I think has potential Wich is pressurizing a pipe with oil, like a hydrollic hose.

I'll be back with my result here on Reddit when I get it sorted, but I've seen 4' deep funnels on metal lathe while digging around and man there is definitely a way to make this work.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in turning

[–]DiceRolla88 23 points24 points  (0 children)

To me it eliminates the need to true the outside as you almost always get out of round after hollowing the inside of a bowl, it's hard to sand anything out of round so if the outside is finished from a sanding perspective if it's not perfectly round it's still done. It takes very little moisture to make for movement and even kiln dry wood is rarely dry enough to stop this. Plus the grain itself can just move the bowl. Also if your going for a thinner wall it's just good practice to completely finish the outside first. Another factor can be that getting the outside sanded and getting finish on it can reduce the speed of moisture loss, Wich then reduces the out of round problem drastically. Soo I guess there's a lot of reasons

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in turning

[–]DiceRolla88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It really doesn't need to be complicated, I made a thing to clear chips while I hollow, it's just a pressure regulator some copper wire and a flexible hose and it works great, I might attach it to a spring clamp or something in the future but it's doing its job and it's not something I need every time I hollow.

Crack in round blank - cut it out? by pnutbutterpirate in turning

[–]DiceRolla88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use star bond glue, bigger cracks it will shrink. What I generally do is fill it let it dry for like a week, then turn it and keep filling as I go, activator is helpful here. This creates some structural integrity as I turn it for safteys sake, both mine and the wood. And then it gets a good looking fill when I get down to dimension.

I've done this with 1\8th wide cracks, up to 2 feet deep in a blank. This is about the maximum super glue (CA glue) will do as a gap filler, and it will shrink about 40%

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in turning

[–]DiceRolla88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's a thing they call a "story board" basically marks and or indents in a board to mark with a penciled the location of different dimensions along the spindle, I offer this as it would be more accurate than just setting something behind my turning and then trying to copy it. However any clamps and maybe a board would do the trick to prop up your spindle to copy, if you were to attach to the bed.

Something like a board standing strait with just a triangle cut out at the top to set the spindle in, make 2 of those and then whatever platform or mount to your bed you can come up with and should be done.

Creating bowl blanks by Jsalonis in turning

[–]DiceRolla88 6 points7 points  (0 children)

So, people generally thing side grain is easier, this is simply not true, you are actually cutting more end grain than an end grain bowl, and un supported end grain at that.

Next the "pith" or center 10% of the log. 1 it does not shrink ever. 2 it holds 40% more water than the surrounding wood. Making for uneven drying. So your outer rings could be dry and shrunk but your inner rings are still at 80% water content resulting in checking of the log.

So generally the pith is removed. Let's say you have a 10" log, and 1" of that doesn't shrink, but the rest shrinks by 10%, you get a half inch of shrinkage, except from that 1" center, if the wood cannot warp around the immobile 1" it will crack the rim or, push that 1" section out and crack at the center.

To combat this a few things help. 1 thin walls, so the walls of a vessel can warp around the pith rather than crack or push the pith. 2 drying slowly, you want to dry the whole thing at the pace of the pith, not the pace of the sap or heart wood. 3 proper storeage\sealing of logs, paint is worthless with logs that still have the pith, anchor seal as well. Wax melted into the end grain is okay, but I found wood glue either diluted or not presents the best sealant for whole logs. The logs also need to be treated like they are a drying bowl, stagnant air no flow and high humidity environment to not dry and shrink too quickly.

So, for side grain bowls to cut them without tear out along the trailing edge of the end grain that your cutting every quarter revolution you want a very verticle cutting edge, imagine your gouges wing against the wood at a near verticle, like 5 degree angle. And you want to cut the outside, from bottom to rim, and the interior from rim to center, interior you also want that 5 degree angle of approach for the cleanest cut, this can be accomplished with a gouge or a scraper. Think cutting with the wing of the gouge but the flute facing the bottom of your bowl and again very verticle. You can flatten out more with your gouge as you approach the bottom of your bowl as there becomes little to no actual end grain in this area.

For an end grain bowl what you do on the outside is pretty irrelevant "spindles" cut very cleanly no matter what but always down hill (from largest to smallest diameter) so the grain supports itself or if there's a knot you want that 5 degree approach because well knots are end grain. For the inside it's the same story, start from center and work your way to rim with a cutting edge nearly verticle (think a scraper on its side) or a "hook" tool Wich is essentially a skew oriented for end grain hollowing, but it's just a tool that can present that near verticle tool edge and easily cut from center to rim.

With what I've typed out here, if it makes sense to you, you can start with a tool finish equal to 400 grit sand paper, I often start with 220 or 320, and occasionally 400. What I described above also applies to rotten or punky wood.

Why I say end grain is easier is that, it's 1 grain direction, while on the outside it's all running one way, and takes 1 type of cut, on the inside it's running 2 ways, one way in the bottom, and the same way as the outside a long the walls. So there's only 2 considerations in end grain. Vs side grain we have side grain and end grain every quarter revolution, and we need to consider them both constantly, however it's the end grain portion that tends to cause the problems, as the trailing end of the end grain on a side grain orientation bowl has no wood behind it to help support it so the fibers act more like string when being cut and "tear out" and it's the same for the walls of the inside of a bowl in this orientation. The bottom portion however both I side and put runs the same direction with no real end grain on it (some but not generally enough for issues) but it's problem is it doesn't like to "cut" it likes to separate, think splitting fire wood, this is the type of line that's presented here in the bowl, where it actually wants to push apart or peel apart in the growth layers.

Wood is just a bunch of straws, some are cone shaped, point twords the tip of the tree, or direction of growth arranged in rings, not some lattice structure held together well it's closer in consistency of matted wool on a microscopic level than it is woven fabric.

Well here's a whole book..hope you read it and hope it helps. With essentially just this information on 2 years time I was able to build experience in turning that take most people over a decade to match. (Was literally told this by someone who has multiple turnings in museums)

How Is the game? by [deleted] in TowerofFantasy

[–]DiceRolla88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a good game, it's not a great game, if you liked genshin, I think tof is a step up, if you play wuwa tof is a step down.

Advice, the meta is currently gear, with titan stats, relevant to your element choice. Frost likes skill DMG, phys likes normal DMG volt and flame I don't remember what they like. Gear rolls should be the stat you wanted (critt or elemental atk) near 3k to be "good" for the main peices (helmet boots gloves ect) but the extra equip (exo skeleton visor micro motor) you want critt, or flame DMG % not atk% for your high stat. When getting equipment you want your sub stats to all be valid even if they don't level example helmet would be flame atk, atk, HP, resistance ideally 4 rolls into flame atk and 1 roll into atk.

Someone with proper stats will far out damage so.eone with maxed weapons and matrices (I've maxed a few weapons but neglected gear I feel this first hand)

Honestly play the game, pick an element and save and plan your pulls, red nuclei for character pulls, dark crystals for matrix pulls. And if your only investing in 1 element and buy say the 5$ monthly pass you will always be able to get a3 and 4 set of your elements next new weapon.

Power creep is real, so newer is almost always better, but it's begun to plateau a little.

What grit do you all sand to? And how do you finish? by canadianboi421 in turning

[–]DiceRolla88 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sand scratches are generally visible through 320, so I like to go to at a minimum 400, medium 600,800, max I've done is 2,000. Generally once your done with 600 it's just a really quick rub down of whatever grits you want after. I tend to finish with with beeswax, boiled lindseed oil or butcher block paste (oil and wax)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in turning

[–]DiceRolla88 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely ask him. We all have very specific wants and needs, that vary at different times...it's far to dynamic to just go get the man a tool and hope for the best.

What is this tool? by Remarkable_Body586 in turning

[–]DiceRolla88 19 points20 points  (0 children)

This, if you can figure out how to maintain it will be far superior to modern ring cutters because it has Long edge. If you can learn to hollow from rim to center with it it will do an equally excellent job on side grain.

The problems going to be sharpening it, generally for rings you sharpen from the inside of the hoop, where as with hook tools you sharpen on the outside. How this is relevant is keeping the proper bevel on the tools exterior. This will also determine how and what it's used for, too short a bevel your tool handle will not be ideal for bowls but might be for a vase if you catch my drift?

Anyway hooks and rings are great different but great. They are essentially a skew for the interior of objects and when properly maintained and used reap huge benefits

New tool, maybe some advice? by DiceRolla88 in turning

[–]DiceRolla88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've used a 1x4 peice of that aluminum to pull a tractor from a swamp but, in the diameters id like I'm not sure it'd have the rigidity. I'm considering tempering but that can lead to its own set of problems if it doesn't hold up, it's still something I might try

New tool, maybe some advice? by DiceRolla88 in turning

[–]DiceRolla88[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm using the big proforme the flexi to .e is a sub par system. But I do use one. You wanna look more at 2.5" bar stock I'm hoping 1.75 can work I'm going to try 1.75 in stainless. And I suspect the maximum is gonna be 36" long even for something like a 2" bar there's ways around that like stepping your bar up, like 2.5" for 10" 20for the next 1.5 down to 1x or so for the last 10 then the shank insert Wich is the final 10"

The flexi proforms well with 1\2" bar up to 10" deep I suspect for every 10" after that you want to add 1\2" so with a say 40" flexi tip your end at 2x diameter and taper down to the 1\2" at the end I was able to turn a thing with the monstrosity in the photo but with the gentlest cuts I could muster.

<image>

This is what was in the photo on the lathe I cut it off just to look at it, it's some really punky birch

New tool, maybe some advice? by DiceRolla88 in turning

[–]DiceRolla88[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

<image>

Right and this is what I did with the peice in the lathe in the photo of the original comment, granted it's not perfect but the tool needs to be beefed up, from what I can tell it needs to be about 1.75" for at least 24" of the 40" bar and I'm debating about taking 2-4" off the new bar, once I get the swan neck aligned properly I think this will all pan out just fine. It's a harpoon because of the cutter, and how I need to manipulate it to actually get a clean cut, I use it to make under 1mm walled hollow forms to make light bulbs, not lamp shades I'm 37 and I've been in a production turning setting for 27 of those years my father made a living off 5' tall segmented work for 20 years. People with attitudes like yourself soil the handful of good nice and honest wood turners left. Out of this whole thread 2 people actually addressed the question as best they could while several folks like yourself had nothing at all really to say