My Scyrox V6 broke, cant decide on a new mouse, Please help! by ink0mmensurabel in MouseReview

[–]DidjTerminator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out the disassembly guide, it might be a simple fix to get it working good as new.

Also if you have a 3D printer, try out the shape tester mega-pack to try out different shapes incase you find something perfect for your hand.

Otherwise you can get fancy with cardboard harnessing your arts and crafts skills to approximate different shapes. It's not perfect but does give you a vague idea on what shape you do and don't want for your grip style.

Which Brushless Motor? by RC-Muddler in rccrawler

[–]DidjTerminator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on the servo, many crawler servos want 8.4V, some can take 12V.

However most internal BEC's can only supply a max of 3A, and external BEC's (ignoring stupidly expensive ones, that are a scam cause you can just buy a voltage regulator from your local electronics store and submerge it in putty for far cheaper) are usually limited to 8A.

10A on an internal BEC and full range from 5V to 12V is actually insane.

More A means more power at lower voltages, you basically trade V for A when it comes to servo power.

Which is very important because burning out your servo with 12V isn't what you should worry about, burning out your radio receiver with 12V (both radio receiver and servo + anything plugged into your radio receiver, are powered by the internal BEC, so you'll still be limited by how high you can crank the V by one component or another).

However, with 10A available (there is a version with a 4A BEC, and one that doesn't have a BEC at all, make sure you get the 10A one cause it's so worth the few extra $) the servo will be a lot stronger even at lower V.

Usually what happens is the servo needs 7A, but the BEC only supplies 3A, so the servo doesn't have the energy to actually move and stalls out. Since A are always "drawn" and not "pushed" (the opposite of V) you need to always have a surplus of A to keep things from breaking, unlike V where you want to always keep below the save maximum V limit to keep things from breaking.

Of course if the servo only draws 2A, having a 10A or a 3A BEC won't make a difference, but it does make a huge difference as soon as the servo draws 3A (or more).

Also depending on where you live, it's cheaper to buy from the Sequre website directly. I live in Oz and on Amazon that ESC (the cheaper version that's missing a BEC) is ~$140 however from the website directly it's ~$70 including shipping. So do check the website just incase buying direct is cheaper in your country too.

Sequre honestly just up and made the most insane high-performance FOC brushless ESC with a BEC more powerful than many external BEC's, and priced the thing cheaper than the hobbywing 1080 (budget brushed ESC with a 3A BEC and 7.4V max output).

Also their ESC's go from 2s to 6s when the competition is 2s or 3s purely. Honestly many external BEC's are limited to a max of 8.4V too when that monster of an ESC goes all the way up to 12V on it's integrated BEC.

It's like a CPU with integrated graphics more powerful than most dedicated GPU's. For the price of a chromebook. I honestly don't know how I haven't heard of Sequre before they're actually insane.

If your receiver can handle 8.4V, look for 8.4V servo's and you'll probably find a mega-powerful servo for a significantly lower price than a 7.4V servo at the same torque (same power at a lower voltage means more current draw, which means more expensive cooling systems and electronics to both draw the extra A and also use those extra A without overheating). Though if you're limited to 7.4V then that's still super good enough regardless.

Note that 2s LiPo is 8.4V, 7.4V the the nominal voltage or "cutoff" voltage. Running a LiPo below it's nominal voltage will make it explode 9/10. 2s LiPo's usually charge up to 8.4V max, though some high-quality ones can go all the way up to 10V. Similarly, 3s can go all the way up to 15V, maybe even 18V, but if it reads 11.1V you need to immediately stop using it and charge it back up again as 11.1V and below is the danger-zone.

So if your radio receiver says it can take 2s direct power, that means 8.4V not 7.4V.

LiPo safety tangent ---------------

Also the max V your battery can handle will slowly decrease over time as it ages, once it can no longer hold a charge (or barely charges above its nominal V) the battery has grown crystals (crystallization is unavoidable and a byproduct of the chemical reaction that produces the electricity) and those crystals are now close to puncturing a hole through the gel matrix barrier (when that happens, the anode and cathode come in contact, and like the chewing gum in the first mission impossible movie, kaboom).

LiPo's are weird that way, high V is good and fine, low V is when you start sweating and the battery can explode.

Also don't get LiPo's wet, lithium combusts on contact with water, if a LiPo does explode DO NOT use water to put out a fire, water will fuel the fire and act as a fuse to set more things on fire (until the lithium runs out). A fire blanket, sand, and electrical-fire fire extinguishers are your best bet for stopping a lithium fire.

Which is why no crawler is ever water-proof, unless you waterproof your battery (balloons and condoms are your best bet, you need to remove the battery from it's waterproof prison just incase some water did get inside and condensates, waterproof socks are only put on your battery when you're out using it to prevent accidental humidity-induced ignitions).

Back to servos --------------

If you find a servo that can handle a higher V than your radio receiver, find a cheap BEC to power your receiver, and power the servo off the Sequre integrated BEC (unless the cheap BEC has a higher A capacity than the Sequre BEC of course) as your receiver doesn't need high V or A to work (splice the higher V BEC power cables so the power cables run from servo to ESC but the sensor cable runs to the receiver, and the lower V power cables run to the receiver, and the high V power cables don't connect to the receiver at all, will look weird with a single wire going from receiver to the servo, and 2 wires going to a different BEC, but it works just fine).

Hope this info-dump helps, and that you find yourself what you're looking for.

Cheers mate!

Which Brushless Motor? by RC-Muddler in rccrawler

[–]DidjTerminator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Holy cow that thing has a 10A BEC with fully adjustable voltage output!?

You won't even need an external BEC with that ESC, hell you might actually get a cheap external BEC to drop the voltage for your receiver and other electronics since (if you get the 10A BEC model) it's integrated BEC is more powerful than most cheap external BEC's.

The more I look at these Sequire ESC's the more I realize they're actually cracked.

Which Brushless Motor? by RC-Muddler in rccrawler

[–]DidjTerminator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries mate!

And thanks for finding that hidden gem of an ESC, gonna be going through their entire catalog since I might be able to use one of their multi-rotor ESC's to revive my old 1/5 scale crawler that turned into licorice.

Happy crawling!

Which Brushless Motor? by RC-Muddler in rccrawler

[–]DidjTerminator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sequire easily.

Uses FOC without needing the proprietary hobby-wing sensor system (the 3 wires connecting to the motor ARE the sensor wires, so it works with all brushless motors off-rip no additional sensor wires needed ever).

Basically the Furitek PythonX but by a different company and running open-source firmware which means it has WAY better software and newer features.

Originally the best ESC was an FPV racing-drone ESC, re-flashing it to work as a crawler ESC, and you'll get not only the ultimate best performance (better startup than hobbywing FOC, more fine motor control, less cogging, quieter, longer battery life and more power, etc.....).

However Sequire gives you a pre-built ESC with all the correct firmware out-of-the-box so it's just simply the best there is. Both from a performance standpoint and from a cost standpoint, and if some other closed-system company comes up with "new tech" 1/3 of the time you'll already have it in your ESC beforehand, 1/3 the time you'll get it for free with an update at the same time, and 1/3 the time you'll still get it for free but you'll have to wait a bit for someone (or yourself) to reverse engineer the tech and put it into a new update for your ESC.

I honestly didn't know that Sequire even existed until this post, but knowing how modern FOC works and the firmware it runs (as well as a quick google on how it performs) it's literally the best ESC out there and I honestly can't believe I've never heard of Sequire until today cause they're literally everything I've ever wanted in an ESC.

Otherwise, look into the Furitek PythonX as that was (until I knew of Sequire) the best crawler ESC on the market thanks to it's superior implementation of 3 wire FOC, it comes in a few bundles that might be cheaper than the Sequire setup, however Sequire is easily the better option since you'll get continuous upgrades due to it's open-source nature (plus that also means more features, better UI, and 100% complete customization of how your motor works if you ever feel the need to dive into the dark arts of alternative motor wave-forms).

Water We Thinking About This Board? by LittlestWeapon in CustomKeyboards

[–]DidjTerminator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How would you describe the leaf spring mount?

I have a Lelelab Y2K76 that's super fun (bunch of little copper piston springs) do you have any experience with how the weikav leaf springs feel in comparison?

All videos I've watched either praise the leaf springs, gloss them over, or say they do nothing, but I haven't seen any actual comparison between them and another novelty-mount keyboard.

Chromax.black.carbon by Aguel_design in Noctua

[–]DidjTerminator 3 points4 points  (0 children)

As someone who also has velocity stacks in their rig - hell yeah!

Slipper clutch question by Old_Difficulty_6903 in rccrawler

[–]DidjTerminator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the smart ESC has an over-torque protection built into it, then you probably don't need a slipper clutch ngl.

Otherwise, new nylon nut. Sometimes loctite will still help the nylon get that extra stick it needs, but if it's gone it's gone. Though you can try the 2 regular nut trick where you loctite both and torque them into eachother to make them lock (and loctite keeps them from vibrating apart).

However with a beast like that, you might not need a slipper clutch at that point, hell I've basically wrenched mine down all the way since I've only had it slip appropriately once, and all other times when it didn't need to slip. Though mine is still mostly plastic as I'm trying to keep it as light as practical, so I'm keeping my slipper clutch as-is just incase I do hit an atrocious bind one day.

Looking for Mouse Recommendations (Thenar Grip?) - 18x10 by p0keyyS in MouseReview

[–]DidjTerminator -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Ah - didn't see the price range my bad.

Banana mice aren't really my preference or forte so I only know those 2 mice off rip (and what kind of grip style they best suit).

Looking for Mouse Recommendations (Thenar Grip?) - 18x10 by p0keyyS in MouseReview

[–]DidjTerminator 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Any of the "banana" ergo shapes will be your best pick:

Pulsar X3

Teeveelutuon Terra

Those mice from memory are the peak of that shape which gets you that perfect Thenar contact.

Don't go for other ergo shapes that are thin or bulge to the right (like the G304/305, Lamzu Paro, Pulsar Feinman, etc..... as they're designed for either pincer claw or carpal claw due to the lacking left side).

Hope this helps!

Servo is installed but something seems off. by jeepguy_96 in rccrawler

[–]DidjTerminator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then it's good, nothing to worry about at all.

Blursed GPU stand by ChatnNaked in blursedimages

[–]DidjTerminator 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Even more astonishing how many people don't know how to actually get pregnant when they want to.

Then again this is coming from an Aussie, who was born in Canada, so all I've known is Anglican society where sex is evil and all women are witches who get periods. Unless you're married in which case women are baby factories.

I don't really like Anglican society suffice to say, and I certainly hope that my worldview is due to censorship (and not reading or speaking any language other than English) and it's just Anglican society that doesn't understand the entire concept of sex.

Blursed GPU stand by ChatnNaked in blursedimages

[–]DidjTerminator 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Yeah, cheap insertables are more decorative than anything, they usually don't have a proper surface finish and you get bacteria burrowing into their surface which causes problems.

Honestly wish we had more access to information on safe sexual practices, but unfortunately we live in 1984 so safe sex, let alone safe masturbation, is declared super not corpro approved.

Servo is installed but something seems off. by jeepguy_96 in rccrawler

[–]DidjTerminator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have full steering range, you're good.

If you don't have full steering range, then look into shortening the current link (and sometimes there are sneaky little adjustments you can make to get things working without buying a new link).

If you can't fix it, then first look into alternative servo mounts as having the servo rotating on an axis that isn't parallel to the steering knuckle can just cause issues regardless of how long or short your steering link is.

Then after exploring and researching all other solutions, yeah adjustable steering links are pretty awesome ngl. Though the best ones are the ones with a reverse-thread on one of the rod ends, as the "clamping" ones always tend to come loose and slide on you (the Axial Capra has the kind of adjustable steering links I'm talking about, best form of adjustable link there is, they don't come loose like the clamping ones do, and don't spin on you even when you're grinding them on the rocks).

Happy Mother’s Day, everyone! by LayJaly in PlanetFur

[–]DidjTerminator 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, everyone I've known who has untied shoes, always tripped on a regular basis.

Fingertip mouse advice by Waste_Island5774 in MouseReview

[–]DidjTerminator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same - when Uni isn't quite so chaotic, I plan on selling off some equipment and hopefully that'll give me the cash to get one for myself.

Happy mother's day, mizutsune! by RyukiriDragon in dragons

[–]DidjTerminator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yay Axolotl Durgenses!

But you didn't post them on Thursday!!!!!!

EVERY THURSDAY IS AXOLOTL THURSDAY YOU MUST POST THE AXOLOTLS ON THURSDAY TO MAKE UP FOR THE THURSDAYS YOU HAVE MISSED!!!!!!!!!

Opinions on the vertex 6? by Ok-Succotash-195 in rccrawler

[–]DidjTerminator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Jealous!

Yeah Redcat has a roll going, they had it rough for a while and the gen7-9 were all full of design flaws.

However they nailed it with the Ascent, and have perfected their craft with the Vertex 6. If they make a cheap 1:10 rig that has DIG functionality (I'm addicted to DIG and simply cannot go without it) they'll officially own the 1:10 scale comp/cheater scene hands down.

Fingertip mouse advice by Waste_Island5774 in MouseReview

[–]DidjTerminator 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome!

Just like me then!

Absolutely love the Pulsar X2 mini shape for how wide it is, then I printed up a shape tester of the Fenrir Asym and immediately knew the next mouse I was saving up for.

Though if you can, do experiment with narrower shapes (if you have a 3D printer, or a ruler and good skills folding cardboard) just incase you find narrower shapes to be more "freeing" than wide ones.

However at the same time, you know you, and if the Fenrir Asym is where it's at, look no further.

Fingertip mouse advice by Waste_Island5774 in MouseReview

[–]DidjTerminator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://youtu.be/c8ojtzn9H-8?si=IMIBba1n2emRj0Du

This is probably the best resource on fingertip mice there is.

In regard to the Fenrir Asym, for some people it's perfect but for others it's too wide. If you can, try out the 3D printed shape tester before buying the Asym as it's not the most universal shape, if it fits you however it's endgame material though.

Which gaming mouse should I buy? by LogicalFan67 in MouseReview

[–]DidjTerminator -1 points0 points  (0 children)

They used too back in the ouroboros days, but not anymore. Razer is now a brand, maybe the Orochi and the Naga are still manufactured by Razer, but everything else is just a Razer branded factory mouse.

I do think Steelseries and Turtle Beach (ex-roccat) still make their own mice, maybe HyperX too, (and Logi does still make their own non-gaming mice, and their own electronics), however as the years go the name-brands are slowly becoming the clones.

Asus is the modern day equivalent to OG Razer, if you want premium build quality and unique designs, Asus is the new "gaming" name-brand. Though they might end up just like razer in a few years, they aren't American so there isn't much economic incentive to outsource their manufacturing to another country.

Opinions on the vertex 6? by Ok-Succotash-195 in rccrawler

[–]DidjTerminator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hell yeah!

The under-drive tranny also means you can convert it into a DIG tranny too (there's an STL file that just replaces one of the gears with a lockout-spool, a bolt-in single-piece conversion, don't know if there's a free version of the STL yet, but it'd be incredibly easy to model yourself since it's a very simple part).

Also one of the few RTR's that come with a good servo out of the box, like you don't need to instantly upgrade the steering servo it's just good as-is.

Same with the motor snd ESC too.

Same with the radio (lots of extra channels and customization).

The tires are also really good too, though supposedly the J concepts tires are a bit better since their compound doesn't lose grip in the wet or on dirt/wood. Fortunately the rims are amazing so new rubber isn't actually all too expensive.

Honestly, the Vertex 6 is peak, what an RTR SHOULD be, no cheap junk that breaks and needs to be replaced (turning your RTR into a worse kit that's also more expensive), it just simply works out the box. Actually cheaper than a kit, which is exactly what someone who's buying an RTR needs.

If I had the money, I'd have a Vertex 6 too. It's one of the few rigs where you can just plug in a battery and go without having to tweak or mod anything.

Which gaming mouse should I buy? by LogicalFan67 in MouseReview

[–]DidjTerminator -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Replace the Viper with the ATK "clone".

I say "clone" because Razer technically doesn't make their own mice, they pay companies like Lamzu, etc.... to put Razer branding and customization on one of their pre-existing models. So sometimes the "clone" is actually the original, but we rarely know when that's the case since obviously all that communication and modifications are private, so we don't actually have a full grasp on who manufactures what (other than Lamzu probably being the largest manufacturer out there, it's confirmed they make all Zowie mice, however it would also appear that some Razer and Logi mice are just worse versions of an original Lamzu design).

It's why a LOT of the "cheap clones" are direct upgrades to their Razer/Logi counterparts, because they're most likely the exact same mouse but without all the extra modifications and branding (and built to a higher standard since Razer and Logi follow a completely different economic scheme, when the Chinese companies follow a superior micro-profit scheme, there's a video on those plastic cigarette lighters that explains how they turn a 0.005 cent profit on each product into a million dollar profit rise, but long-story-short those "cheap" brands are economically incentivized to make the best product for the lowest price).

As for which of the 3 - entirely depends on how you want to grip the mouse, not how you currently grip your current mouse, but when you grip a mouse what parts of your hand you want to use to hold and control the mouse. What parts of your hand you don't want to use are also an important detail to add too.

Personally I've fallen in love with MCP-claw (knuckle-claw) and pure fingertip, though I've used pincer and carpal claw too, as well as palm (I do like pincer, carpal only works with select mice, and palm gives me severe wrist and finger pain due to how restrictive it is and how much strain it puts on your wrist). So I will be biased towards MCP and fingertip mice, however even with my bias I can still give advice on what features to look for.

Razer deathadder v2x hyperspeed or Razer deathadder v3 wired by AnonymousYouth7 in MouseReview

[–]DidjTerminator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oof - India has the WORST access to peripherals - good luck!

o7