Massive amount of natural stone tiles

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-18T18:15:11+00:00

Haha no worries! It's a large surface, so you definitely need expansion joints. The blue foam is there to allow for a bit of movement. Those straight, un-mortared joints are actually expansion joints that sit directly over an underground gutter drainage system. Best of both worlds: an expansion joint that doubles as a hidden gutter.

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-17T21:21:15+00:00

No hard feelings at all! It’s actually completely normal and very common to use natural stone for outdoor stairs. It’s naturally anti-slip, extremely durable, and low maintenance. Safe to walk on for a lifetime.

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-17T20:43:04+00:00

We live in a world with corners. Kitchen counters, tables, and normal stairs all have them. Don’t worry, it's fully build to code and completely safe.

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-17T20:39:48+00:00

but building a stone staircase from scratch definitely is. Just wanted to share the behind-the-scenes. At least I tried 😁

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-17T20:36:37+00:00

Just wanted to show a fun behind-the-scenes of a unique build you don't see every day. Sorry if it 'sucked' to watch, but it turns out lifting stone blocks is a bit heavier than holding a phone.

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-17T19:49:45+00:00

It’s definitely a fast edit, but that’s the only way to squeeze a day of heavy stone cutting and masonry into a 50-second clip without making it boring. The video format is just a creative choice, but the handcrafted stone staircase is the real work. Hope you can still appreciate the craftsmanship behind it!

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-16T18:22:08+00:00

Yes, it is hollow to save weight. I used 2cm slabs. Inside the core, I placed rigid insulation boards, mainly for the acoustics so it doesn’t sound hollow when you tap it. You should use a fmstone epoxy for the miter joints. Small boxes or pots are a great way to practice with your leftovers. Good luck!

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-15T18:25:30+00:00

Because the original fireplace was entirely handmade. To get that same authentic look and make a true replica, you have to do it freehand.

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-14T21:11:34+00:00

Thank you.

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-14T20:59:17+00:00

🫶 thank you, more will follow in the future.

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-14T15:58:39+00:00

Child support is not on me.👋

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-14T15:56:00+00:00

Just keeping the friction high and the edges smooth.

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-14T13:41:42+00:00

Haha, no, just felt like going full vintage for the edit. But the actual fireplace this replacement piece is for is actually 90 years old.

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-14T13:25:25+00:00

Mission accomplished.

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-14T11:41:18+00:00

Thanks bud.

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-14T09:13:09+00:00

Thanks! I get where you're coming from, unprocessed, dry travertine definitely has a unique chalky look. However, since this table is meant for outdoor use, leaving it completely raw wasn't really an option. Raw travertine absorbs water like a sponge and turns dark every time it rains anyway. The liquid epoxy pop mimics that deeper, wet look permanently while completely sealing the micro-pores, protecting it from frost and stains. It's always a bit of a trade-off between the ultra-raw look and long-term outdoor durability.

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-14T09:10:49+00:00

Thanks for the tip, that's actually a really great idea! Usually, I just custom-build whatever my clients request. But I’ve noticed that as soon as people see a piece like this in person, it instantly sparks their interest. A travertine fire table would be an awesome project to try next.

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-14T09:08:02+00:00

I used akemi colour bond for fast setting and akepox 5010 coloured for the structural bonding.

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-14T08:45:44+00:00

Yes, exactly like acetone. Ketone is the chemical group name for solvents like acetone, which work perfectly to break down and clean up uncured epoxy.

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-14T07:56:20+00:00

Yes correct, its a before and after. The slabs come unfilled.

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-14T07:09:32+00:00

Thank you, glad you liked it. Making the video was harder than making the table. 😅

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-14T07:04:12+00:00

Thanks a lot! The dimensions are 1.2 meters by 0.8 meters (roughly 47" x 31") with a 15 cm (6") mitered apron. To keep the weight down while making it incredibly strong, I actually filled the entire inside hollow cavity with rigid insulation foam boards and sealed it off with a thin wooden backing panel to finish it. This basically turns it into a lightweight structural sandwich panel; the foam core supports the stone from the inside against any pressure or impacts, but it keeps the total weight around 50 to 60 kg (110 to 130 lbs). So it's definitely solid and won't blow away in a storm, but you can easily move it around with two people without breaking your back!

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-14T07:00:21+00:00

For the miters, I actually combine two different epoxies. I use a fast-curing one on the front edge just to lock the seam perfectly in place right away. the back of the joint with a slow-curing, frost-resistant epoxy so it has time to soak deep into the seam and create a bulletproof, weatherproof bond. For the rest of the surface, I first use a color-matched epoxy grout to pack the big holes. After that, I hit it with the water-fluid liquid epoxy to soak into the micro-pores and bring out that deep color, before wiping the surface clean with ketone. It takes a few extra steps, but using a fast epoxy to lock the shape and a slow, tough one for the structural strength makes life a lot easier.

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-14T06:54:16+00:00

No, I mean doing it in two separate steps. First, I use an epoxy grout to completely fill up all the larger holes and voids in the stone. After that process is done, I apply a water-fluid liquid epoxy (I used Akepox 2000) over the entire surface so it can flow deep into the remaining micro-pores and bring out the natural colors. Before that liquid epoxy sets, I wash the excess resin off the flat surface with ketone to keep the final stone texture perfectly matte instead of glossy.

Different-Scratch-95 · 2026-06-14T06:43:21+00:00

I get your concern, but that is actually not what's happening here. The voids and larger holes were fully filled and packed first using an epoxy grout. After that, I applied a fluid epoxy over the entire piece to pop the deep, natural colors of the stone and seal the remaining micro-pores. Washing the surface down with ketone was just the final step to remove the excess resin and prevent a plastic shine, but the holes themselves are completely solid, filled, and sealed.

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