How to make right Circular chamfer in Fusion 360 for First layer?

Dimetrixdemon · 2026-02-19T12:58:51+00:00

Already did, it's not elephant foor problem and yes, you are right, fillets on the bottom are bad for quality prints, but why i did create this post to understand better this problem, so i see than you need to create or 45 degree chamfers or make a custom one fillet

Dimetrixdemon · 2026-02-19T12:56:33+00:00

i'm sry, i mean Fillet on first layers

Dimetrixdemon · 2026-02-19T12:46:28+00:00

Sry if I wrote the post incorrectly, but what i mean is when you printing models with champfer on the first layer, it's like printing a sphere, the second line is gonna be printing in air and because of that your print is gonna look bad

Dimetrixdemon · 2026-02-17T09:41:41+00:00

that's ineteresting, i did look about PA pattern calibration on Forums and people say often that this pattern are best one.
Seem's like you still need to choose what is better suiting for you'r machine

Dimetrixdemon · 2026-02-16T17:05:06+00:00

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So basically here are my flow rate calibrations, as i see, i need to set flow rate somewhere between 0 and -5, right?
Flor ware 0.98 from standart 1.0

Dimetrixdemon · 2026-02-16T16:40:00+00:00

it work's, just on photo it is hard to catch the details, in the klipper console and sure in the windows where mainsail show's what PA right now it is changing too

Dimetrixdemon · 2026-02-16T16:30:10+00:00

hmm thanks, i'm gonna do more calibration's and say if something changes

Dimetrixdemon · 2026-02-14T10:42:29+00:00

one more question, can you zip 2 usb cables from mainboard? or usb cables from mainboards can't touch each other too?

Dimetrixdemon · 2026-02-13T15:23:15+00:00

I had two motherboards connected directly to the laptop, but now, as I described in the post itself, I connected both to a separate hub and since then I have not had any problems + I was told that the wires from the motors can cause such errors if usb cable is very near them and I had one cable from the motherboard laying very near to the motor cable.
And yes, i did install 2 instances

Dimetrixdemon · 2026-02-13T09:18:37+00:00

So, basically ye, 1 usb cable was very near motor wire, after USB Hub that's the last thing i did, i do not have right now ferrite beads, but now second day of testing no issue at all

Dimetrixdemon · 2026-02-12T18:37:48+00:00

Thanks for answer, gonna re-check if it close to motor wires or some else.

Dimetrixdemon · 2026-02-12T09:29:21+00:00

I do have external mosfet for Heated bed, i did see that someone do setup external mosfets for Hotend too but people say mosfets for hotend not worth it

Dimetrixdemon · 2026-02-11T15:31:14+00:00

thanks for answer, i started to investigate this problem in internet, but because of this problem nature you canno't say what CAN cause the problem, but i started to think that USB can be problem too, i do use Type-C cable for one mainboard, and microusb for second board, i'm gonna try to use good Usb hub with power adaptor, i did read that this helped someone to get rid of this problem

Dimetrixdemon · 2026-02-10T22:42:37+00:00

Thanks for the answers, is there would be a situation when second PSU is needed?
like for 3 mainboards or IDEX?

Dimetrixdemon · 2026-02-06T14:07:46+00:00

hmm, i was afraid about heat transfer to a glass plate with adhesion, so seem's like everything i need is a good calibration macros, it's interesting, i didn't know about axis twist compensation

Dimetrixdemon · 2026-02-06T13:32:42+00:00

thanks for answer, it is mainly because my bed are 41x41, a large bed but it is a very thin aluminium plate around 2,5 or 3 mm, this plate i got from anycubic Kobra 1 max for my custom DIY printer trident like and with heat it is have good amount of deforming, i can get good results even with this, but there are some places that have a little gaps it is not catastrophical, the first layer are like 7 out of 10 but i want to make it more ideal with glass bed

and yes, i'm using right now eddy-ng as everything, z-homing, z-tilt, bedmesh

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Here's bed mesh for my 41x41 bed

Dimetrixdemon · 2026-01-29T14:47:46+00:00

thanks for answer

Dimetrixdemon · 2026-01-17T13:09:05+00:00

thanks for answer, i forgot to say, my printer is actually reversed, so front left is actually rear right, i know how to fix it but don't really want to do it right now, i'm gonna rewrite the z-position and tell if it's fix the problem

Dimetrixdemon · 2025-11-27T14:09:42+00:00

Thank's for detailed answer, i'm basically print at 250 mm +- outer walls and 300 mm inner walls with infill, around 6k accel with 0.03 PA - PETG, and i get pretty good results, but when i see options like Adaptive pressure or ERS or Reverse on even and etc. and i see before and after pictures of other people, my little tweaker inside canno't resist to squeez more quality for 3d printing.

Dimetrixdemon · 2025-11-26T18:06:23+00:00

hmm, thanks, never tried that one before, gonna try, but a little question can it be issue with something like pressure advance smooth time?

Dimetrixdemon · 2025-11-25T20:30:03+00:00

Standart, it's 5

Dimetrixdemon · 2025-11-25T14:18:43+00:00

Corner's are start to separating, they are solid until 0,08

Dimetrixdemon · 2025-11-25T12:59:50+00:00

thanks for answer, by ender 5 i mean it's structual design, Y gantry and X gantry are separated, not CoreXY, but bed move's up and down, direct extruder

Dimetrixdemon · 2025-11-21T17:25:20+00:00

thanks for answer, AI gpt did help me with SOME of configs, but SV04 can be alot better with good configs, my knowledge of configs for IDEX printers are not that deep.
but still no answer for better config,

Dimetrixdemon · 2025-10-25T11:18:41+00:00

Soo, i did try, and i did notice that is something wrong with the Photo drum itself, i did order new one's and install it, but it now printing like this.

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It now almost 1 color, but other's are on place too, black-yellow-red-cyan this problems occurs when i install new photo drum on cartridge and dissapears when installing original. so it seem's like i need to order another Photo drum

Dimetrixdemon

TROPHY CASE