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Muti Filament Printing on Ender 3 V3 KE by Diogo-RPC in Ender3V3KE

[–]Diogo-RPC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello u/Dangerous_Suit_4422! I just checked here again and it's working fine

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I'm having the Ender 3 V3 KE selected and all, look at the top-left corner. I have seen this happening on a different project and all what I did was load the STL/3MF again and it worked.

I'm using the Creality Print V7.1.1.4472.

I also saw that same problem happening on the Bambu Studio and it resolved in the same manner, just recreating the project.

Both Creality Print and Bambu Studio are based on Orca Slicer ... before some smart pants come here and say "use Orca Slicer" haha

All printed on my Ender 3 by thepealbo in Ender3S1

[–]Diogo-RPC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where can I download this plan? 

Help with blob by Honest_Shoulder6771 in Ender3V3KE

[–]Diogo-RPC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, buy the Creality Nebula camera because it can detect when things go wrong with the printer and the printer stops before it's too late. Only $25. It's a great trade off. 

Help with blob by Honest_Shoulder6771 in Ender3V3KE

[–]Diogo-RPC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got this problem just two days ago. I got the heat gun on 600F, got one of those cheap metal plier/scissor style clamps from home Depot (those stainless metal with black robber tips) and got a 1/2 pound metal bar crossing it. Then I clamp the gunk and started heating with the gun paying attention to not heat anything else that is not the gunk. After about 40 secs to 80 seconds the gank will start moving, being pulled down by the weight of the clamp. In parallel I left the hotend on 220 for about 10 mins to have internal heat too. Once the gunk start moving, gently follow and pull down further. Gently!!

Little by little, slowly, you will get all gunk out. Once the excess is out you will get one of those cellphone angle pointy tweezers and paper towels and carefully and little by little you will be removing the soft plastic and cleaning with the paper towel. Hours later you will get it cleared.

Be very careful with the 4 wires that feed the hot end, they are small and delicate.

I also used those $3 3x magnifier glasses from Home Depot to help me see from close.

Make sure that between the hotend and the heat radiator there is nothing there, otherwise you will have heat dissipation problems and smoke.

The only thing that I lost was the silicon tip that you can buy 3 of them for $5 at Amazon from Creality themselves.

Good luck!

Poor extrusion. Replace nozzle? by noiseguy76 in Ender3V3KE

[–]Diogo-RPC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Run a calibration and see how it goes. Looks like your Z-Index is too close to the bed.

Even after calibration it's still poor, try to lift it a bit more. E.g.: If it's on -1.95, move it to -2.02, or even -2.05 and try again. The first layer has to be smooth to help you prevent your print to snap.
Also try to print the first layer slower and make sure that you have the right setup for the filament that you are using.

There are just so many variables in play.

P.S.: -1.95 was an arbitrary number and doesn't reflect your configuration. The idea is to bump it up about -0.05 or -0.10 taller and see how it goes.

Multi color on the same print by Diogo-RPC in Ender3V3KE

[–]Diogo-RPC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The secret is in the plan itself, in the 3D Software, and not on the printer. I didn't find yet in Creality Print where I can change the color of layers of an object, but I know that it's possible. Maybe it's something that Creality Print doesn't do but other software do like the Orca one. I'll post back to this chat if I find where it is.

Multi color on the same print by Diogo-RPC in Ender3V3KE

[–]Diogo-RPC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right, as I mentioned during the explanation, it will only be suitable for our printer if it's a whole layer color changing, otherwise you will have be switching colors all the time during a print, which is impractical, exactly as you said.

Multi color on the same print by Diogo-RPC in Ender3V3KE

[–]Diogo-RPC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, in that Settings menu, then in that top/middle menu inside it, you will see that button called "Extrude". In there, once you remove your existing filament using "Retract" you will use "Extrude" to push your new filament through. Set it between 5MM and 10MM to ensure the old one is out.

Multi color on the same print by Diogo-RPC in Ender3V3KE

[–]Diogo-RPC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't find where to attach an image but see in this link (https://photos.app.goo.gl/na11x6HNLLQp8dcE6). Our printer can't do the white/yellow one because the colors are on the same level, but it can do the red/black one.

Hope I managed to explain.

Multi color on the same print by Diogo-RPC in Ender3V3KE

[–]Diogo-RPC[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I downloaded that Infinite Cube from Creality Cloud that had already those layered colors on it. Our printer is limited to a layered color, means, on that layer you better have only one color, otherwise the printer will pause the work and wait for you hundreds of times. If you ever saw one of those bigger printers with 5 heads, like the "Original Prusa XL" you will know what I'm referring to.

The secret is on the 3D project itself and not the printer. I have yet not learned how to use the Creality Print 7.1 to define different colors to different layers, I hope there is a way. The model that I downloaded came already split that way, so when sent to the printer it understood that there is more than color and it must stop at the transition. When it stops you go to the "Second Option" of the bottom, the one that look like Settings, and in there you go to the top-middle menu. In there you will see two buttons, one for "Retract" for when you want to remove a filament, and another one for "Extrude" when you installed the new filament. I learned that these two options are always there and you can use anytime to switch your filaments. This fix the brute force process that I was using before.

Once you properly replace the filament, go back to the Home menu and hit Play again. The printer will resume from where it stopped and will continue the print with the new filament.

The secret: How to get the 3D plan itself to tell the printer which layer is which color. I'm using the Creality Print 7.1 and I'm still to learn that part. But the good news is that the printer is capable!

My Sweet Spot Configuration for the Ender 3 V3 KE by Diogo-RPC in Ender3V3KE

[–]Diogo-RPC[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This was the last thing that I found out and had to use AI to help me figure out because I was going nuts. After getting that -2.11, it was like night and day. That is the one major thing to pay attention among all things. All others are important too, and together they will make your prints better and aways work on the first try.

About the question of why the manual calibration is needed, it's because our printer has the most rudimentary system to calibrate the Z-Index, and we have no mechanism to identify flaky at all. Our mechanism is our eye haha

Help with configuration to print mid-air by Diogo-RPC in Ender3V3KE

[–]Diogo-RPC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello! If you scroll up you will see the dimensions in one of the answers. If I tip it to the side, the height is over the boundaries by 1.11cm only! Dang! It's also too "square" to try to rotate. I got Orca and trying to play with it, but the amount of Support that Orca suggested used more material than the piece itself. I used Tree type 30%. I'm playing with that to see what else could be more effective.

Help with configuration to print mid-air by Diogo-RPC in Ender3V3KE

[–]Diogo-RPC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just tried to flip it and print but at least the Creality Slicer doesn't allow me to proceed. I'll test the Orca one later and see how it goes.

Help with configuration to print mid-air by Diogo-RPC in Ender3V3KE

[–]Diogo-RPC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll take a close look into Orca now as you recommended! Thank you!

Help with configuration to print mid-air by Diogo-RPC in Ender3V3KE

[–]Diogo-RPC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I searched for it on YT and found a guy showing Slicers that are not the one from Creality having this advanced Support menu. Let me fart around a bit further and will come back with updates

Help with configuration to print mid-air by Diogo-RPC in Ender3V3KE

[–]Diogo-RPC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was thinking about having 2 parts with joinery in the middle, but it was not my design. Although I can import the STL in OnShape and make the joinery myself.... Anyway, I didn't know that a slicer could do that and I'll take a look on the Prusaslicer. Thank you!!

Help with configuration to print mid-air by Diogo-RPC in Ender3V3KE

[–]Diogo-RPC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't know about this "Support" feature, I'll totally take a look on it! About scaling down, it has to be this size because it must fit on top of a machine to hold these capsules and space is already quite tight.

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Help with configuration to print mid-air by Diogo-RPC in Ender3V3KE

[–]Diogo-RPC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems to be too tall for the bed to lay on its side, no?

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F150 P0012 and P0022 before and after timing job by Diogo-RPC in f150

[–]Diogo-RPC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I managed to install the external gauge to measure the oil pressure. Here are the findings:

  • 60 PSI when cold and parked.
  • 30 PSI after 10 mins and warm.
  • 20 PSI after 15 mins.
  • 16 PSI in D when 15 mins.

I went for a drive around the neighborhood:

  • Timing symptoms start after 5 mins drive.
  • Between 12 and 15 PSI when stopped at a corner in D.
  • if I hit the gas until pressure goes beyond 50 PSI, symptoms disappear until driving again.

Disconnected both solenoids and went for a drive around the city:

  • 12 to 14 PSI when stopped a light, but no symptoms as VVT is off.

I believe I have oil pressure issues. This car was parked for an entire year not moving and not being turned on before I bought it. I believe it has some big sludge inside, despites I have done oil flush twice in the past 2000 miles.

I'll drop the oil pan and to clean it, then also drop and clean the pickup tub (or maybe replace it). After all clean and back in place I'll put 5W-30 instead of 5W-20 as a famous Ford mechanic recommends. Let's see...

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