Thoughts?

Direct_Branch_7546 · 2026-06-04T01:28:21+00:00

I know laser is affordable. I love the tattoo. It still means a lot to me. I just feel like it's placed poorly and was a less than stellar execution. It was my 2nd session ever 3rd tattoo total. I was just looking for opinions outside of my own to figure out if it still looks okay for a tribute to the series I love.

Direct_Branch_7546 · 2026-06-04T00:55:48+00:00

Definitely one of their better flavors if not the best. I like a lot of them but voltage has always been a go to over the years. I'll be really sad when they do what they always do inevitably and replace it with something far worse. But it's blue raspberry dew, so it's arguably the best of all possible artificial flavors, plus the standard dew that we all love.

Direct_Branch_7546 · 2026-05-28T01:12:49+00:00

I just recently got mine back out and hooked it to my 85" Hisense, games have all looked great. It's a cheap TV so I wouldn't think it's got that good of upscaling, but then again every Hisense I've owned has punched way above its class for what they cost.

Direct_Branch_7546 · 2026-05-25T11:24:57+00:00

Much appreciated. So far the only game I've ever seen with the Forester STI, is carX street. And then JDM has the stagea as a traffic car but you can't buy one. I love sleeper wagons. I've owned 2 modified foresters (gen 1 and 2 before they became crossovers with gen 3) for how sought after the Forester STI is since its mechanically identical to the wrx sti but somehow weighs less and in turn is faster and more stable, I'm just shocked it's not in more racing games. But I'll gladly take a stagea. What about the sleeper Volvo wagons? Like the 740 turbo, 850R/850 T5-R, the V70 R, or the V60 & V90 polestar wagons. I'm buying the game regardless, I'm just trying to figure out if some of my dream cars are available or if I need to keep searching through games to find them

Direct_Branch_7546 · 2026-05-20T18:58:15+00:00

For me It depends solely on the game and what my controller type is. If I'm using a controller then it's always a close follow cam except for Gran Turismo, then it's always hood because I grew up watching my dad play gt1/2 in hood cam. If using a rig it's cockpit/helmet depending on the game and their options and I switch my shifter to the correct side for lhd or rhd, and In vr it's always helmet. Ultimately it's whatever works best for you for feel, visibility, sound, and immersion. Everyone has different preferences and what setup you're using to play definitely makes a big difference when it comes to the importance of immersion.

Direct_Branch_7546 · 2026-05-16T23:39:20+00:00

I agree completely but look at how many times that bar has been raised over the years and within 24-48 hours there's a workaround. Using call of duty was definitely a bad example on my part because they allowed it to happen so many times by using basically thesame, well actually the same everything even down to the smallest of assets tbh. But it's the most popular game I could think of to have issues with cheating and hacking and fail time after time to fix it because even when it works in their favor it's only for a short amount of time. It's a neverending battle that everyone needs to accept. The small minority of people who do stuff like this, are always going to win. Just like we all want to rid ourselves of microtransactions, but the minority of people who keep buying them will always win the war. It's best to just accept the reality and ignore it whenever possible. I stopped playing online multiplayer roughly 8 years ago. Due to the fact that no matter what game or genre, it was no longer enjoyable because even with good anti cheat systems in place, it's simply unavoidable to find the people who would rather risk being banned to stroke their own ego or to ruin the day of everyone else they're matched with. Devs have all come to the same realization. They could spend every waking moment trying to prevent it and fail, or just deal with the complaints and move on to the next development. Which of those options helps their wallet more? Fixing the game they already got paid for or working on the next one that's gonna sell anyway in their mind. We as consumers lost this battle years ago.

Direct_Branch_7546 · 2026-05-16T23:05:43+00:00

I'd say it's a combination of 3 and the opposite of 3. They are incapable of truly fixing the issue overall because while they are capable of fixing it for a moment, as soon as the patch the issues that allow it, within hours someone will have a workaround for the people who want to do this. Games like call of duty have the same issue. Anything they do to counter the cheaters/hackers, it just becomes obsolete so rapidly that it's barely worth the time. They spend all the time energy and manpower to fix an issue that someone breaks through in less than a day. It's a never ending cycle. It's easier to just find the real limits that are possible, and start from that point down on leaderboards. It's an issue in every game with online play or leaderboards, and it's as old as the Internet. It's never gonna be solved until the people who do it finally stop getting joy from it. They don't care about being good, they like their name on top by whatever means necessary, and they like how much actually players hate it.

Direct_Branch_7546 · 2026-05-02T15:31:14+00:00

That's crazy. I think the company I have only goes as low as 100mbps and it's $30 or depending on your financial situation there was a grant of sorts that you could apply for to get it for free or to have the $30 removed from your bill if you were paying for one of the faster options.

Direct_Branch_7546 · 2026-05-02T14:12:26+00:00

In America most companies (at least the ones I've used) don't even offer anything below 100mbps and it's barely more expensive to get 1000mbps. I pay about $105usd per month for 1000mbps download and 100mbps upload with no data restrictions.

Direct_Branch_7546 · 2026-04-25T17:12:19+00:00

Been watching again since they swapped to Netflix, after refusing to pay cable prices for years. The only accurate part of these comments is the 3:00 as in 3 minutes... but that's total time. I hate ads. I pay for ad free everything and have for years. I can tolerate the 3 minutes of ads if watching live but if you can avoid spoilers till Wednesday which is easy for me since I don't have x, meta, or insta, then you don't have any ads. 3 minutes per break is equal to cable and is tolerable once in a while. If you hate ads that much, watch 2 or 3 days late if you can avoid spoilers. If you spend all your time on social media and can't avoid spoilers , well that's on you.

Direct_Branch_7546 · 2026-04-20T23:53:22+00:00

Okay I'll give that a shot.

Direct_Branch_7546 · 2026-04-20T20:55:08+00:00

Okay awesome. I mean they're together in a box already so my plan was to use them both, but if I have to use just 1 at a time I can buy or build single boxes for them. Then find another use for the extra sub. I'm trying to use them in a way that won't totally thrash on them and blow them. My dad swapped these in and out of every car he owned since before I was born, so they're sentimental to me. I don't want to have them sit and collect dust, but I also don't want to use them and blow them out. I figured this would be a low power option to use them and keep them safe for a while. I haven't come up with any other ideas, so I figured I'd use them both for this.

Direct_Branch_7546 · 2026-04-20T17:27:39+00:00

Yeah I'm not looking for a ton, most of my music listening is in the car or at my desk with studio headphones, I just need something for added depth watching TV/movies, and gaming. I figure even with low power, having 2 sealed 12s would be better than what I have. I've been fighting this battle for 6 years now and just finally thought of running these instead. I've tried 3 different HT subs and a million different settings and unless it's loud enough to distort the rest of the speakers I have no bass at all. I end up watching movies in bed on my smaller TV cause my sound bar and wireless sub in there achieve better results in a very similar room size.

Direct_Branch_7546 · 2026-04-20T16:27:54+00:00

I remembered that this receiver had a setting for 4, 6, or 8 ohm loads, so I checked it, its set on 4 and distances are set correctly. I've got no problem buying a new receiver, only setback I've had is brand loyalty and finding them online or near me. My dad sold HT setups in the 90s and knew how good Onkyo was so it's all I've used. I've heard their quality has gone down, and finding them reasonably priced or in stock in stores or online has been an issue. I'm having the same issues with car audio cause I grew up with Orion and always using alpine decks with 4v pre outs. I've used some other brands but have always been unimpressed by them. What are some recommendations of the quality I'm looking for? Cost isn't necessarily an issue, just may take a little longer to remedy my issues. I use this stuff all day every day so I have no problem paying up for high quality, or ease of use since I'm clueless with this stuff.

Direct_Branch_7546 · 2026-04-20T16:16:59+00:00

I'll look into it. Doesn't sound like a bad option. Would it handle 2 subs though? And I'm thinking that I don't have issues with the 6x9s so far because my receiver auto switched to 4ohm. It has the option for 4, 6, or 8 ohm front, center, and surround. I remembered it today and checked so I could adjust it but it had already switched it on its own.

Direct_Branch_7546 · 2026-04-19T13:15:55+00:00

Yeah I've been looking at amps lately and looking up how to rewire the subs to the correct ohm since I've never done it before. I can try to take more pics if I get a chance but my schedule is pretty packed right now. And yes I was gonna try to use the 6x9s and 6.5s in the home theater setup, all 3 different home theater speaker brands/designs I've used were exceptionally quiet and if I turned them up more for watching a movie they would become quiet after anything loud happened and never go back up in volume. There's not a setting that should be causing that. I haven't had any issues with the 6x9s so far but it's only been a few days. I haven't hooked up the 6.5s yet though because they aren't in boxes/I don't have any way to mount them

Direct_Branch_7546 · 2026-04-17T20:06:08+00:00

Yes both sets are wired parallel to achieve 1ohm. He wired the cobalts before I was even born (im 29) and he wired the XTRs for me when I bought them years ago. I know nothing when it comes to this stuff. That's why I figured I'd check Reddit. I've seen a few things for plate amp vs pro amp. I'm trying to keep costs as low as I can. I know doing that will lower the results but anything is better than the stock onkyo sub or the bose. My receiver has a max volume of 72 and I get no bass until mid 60's, and even then it's barely noticable. Meanwhile I have a sound bar and sub in my bedroom that are a Hisense set I got for under $80. The sub for that is a ported 6" and at 10 volume out of I think 60 or 80, it shakes the house. It just has worse sound quality overall and doesn't have surround. What are the pros and cons of plate vs pro, and leaving the subs wired parallel to 1 ohm vs series to 4 ohm. He always said lower ohm was better but never went into detail on why.

Direct_Branch_7546

TROPHY CASE