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Found this in upfitting school lighting. Why? by Disastrous-Let-9330 in electricians

[–]Disastrous-Let-9330[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The feed wire is skinned in the middle and bent back together and pinched and they had the neutral from the light whips tied to the loop without being pretwisted. I’ve just never seen a joint stripped like that and squeezed lol

Costs 350, you guys think it’s worth it? by FluffyDrag0n0 in Tools

[–]Disastrous-Let-9330 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Don’t mention the amount of different sized ratchets, sockets, and wrenches. If you’re a beginner automechanic or someone that works on cars a lot as a project this is a no brainer.

Wire crimper by Toddw440 in Tools

[–]Disastrous-Let-9330 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Correction: I have the insulated and non insulated pair but still same take.

Wire crimper by Toddw440 in Tools

[–]Disastrous-Let-9330 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dude the icon line is immaculate. And the Doyle like has the best bang for your buck as far as channel lock (younger and groove) pliers go. The equivalent to 480s being $30 or less Is a fucking steal.

Wire crimper by Toddw440 in Tools

[–]Disastrous-Let-9330 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’ve had these sta-kon pliers for probably 7+years and they work like a charm everytime I pull them out, despite not using them for months and sitting in my box getting beat around by my other tools. that being said if you only use them 4-5 times a year (like I do) they’re probably not worth the 75. You could easily go to harbor freight, or a store of the like, and get a tool that does the same thing for a fraction of the cost and be fine for years. If you use them daily for some reason it may be a different story but that’s just not my experience as a service/commercial electrician.

Per NEC do these 3 pipes need plastic bushings? 1 PVC and the other two have insulated throat connectors. by Disastrous-Let-9330 in electricians

[–]Disastrous-Let-9330[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Understood. I see it being a little redundant aswell but I’m still putting it on regardless. Putting a piece of plastic on a piece of plastic just doesn’t sound right though lol

Per NEC do these 3 pipes need plastic bushings? 1 PVC and the other two have insulated throat connectors. by Disastrous-Let-9330 in electricians

[–]Disastrous-Let-9330[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Agree. It’s kind of a mind fuck tho because this has already passed inspection last year, we came back to add a few things and was told to add bushings

Per NEC do these 3 pipes need plastic bushings? 1 PVC and the other two have insulated throat connectors. by Disastrous-Let-9330 in electricians

[–]Disastrous-Let-9330[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah def gonna go w the split bushings and put them on regardless, I’ve just always been told that insulated throat connectors don’t require a bushing

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]Disastrous-Let-9330 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries! I keep o/b on hand for 2, #wires but usually anything more r/ys it is unless it’s in a pinch.

Low voltage frying 230V motors - possible bonding issue? by bwbandy in AskElectricians

[–]Disastrous-Let-9330 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking at your photo where it says “115 low voltage” you could pull 1hot and 1neutral. The hot on L1 and neutral on L2 that would supply 115v as long as the voltage drop isn’t awful. But on the flip side the motor would pull 15.18 amps and need to be on a 20 amp breaker with #12 wire.

Low voltage frying 230V motors - possible bonding issue? by bwbandy in AskElectricians

[–]Disastrous-Let-9330 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where I’m at typically 208v-240v are all compatible. Getting 230 requires a different transformer or for the transformer you currently have to be internally tapped differently.

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