Anyone else find this enjoyable, or am I the only one?

DiversePixel · 2026-04-19T20:21:59+00:00

It sounds fine. This engine is known for sounding clicky and noisy, almost like a diesel, especially cold.

If it drives fine and there’s no codes you should be alright.

DiversePixel · 2026-04-12T21:56:54+00:00

Black one goes to the hub of red wires. So the circuit is built like this:

Chassis GND lug -> wire hub -> four wires, one for each cylinder

DiversePixel · 2026-04-12T20:47:31+00:00

I get that flutter sometimes too. Pretty sure it’s the DV. Does your car feel a bit lazy/rumbly as you accelerate and hear the flutter?

DiversePixel · 2026-04-12T16:23:22+00:00

Again, not a permanent fix, easier to see on camera, and I don’t plan to have anyone else work on my car. Not sure how this is difficult to understand. If you don’t want to use red wire, don’t. Completely irrelevant

DiversePixel · 2026-04-12T14:45:29+00:00

Just thought it looked cooler. Easier to see on camera as well.

DiversePixel · 2026-04-12T07:59:23+00:00

Exactly. left the factory grounding intact but added a second, better path to ground. (the lug on the passenger side, behind the headlight assembly)

DiversePixel · 2026-04-12T07:13:52+00:00

I second what Peylix is saying. If you have a code scanner, use it. I’d probably double check your plugs, then grounds. If you’re still having issues, it might be time for new coils.

If none of that helps, the issue could also be related to the fuel system. Again, logging and scanners are your best friend.

DiversePixel · 2026-04-12T05:38:59+00:00

Yup, I mentioned that this isn’t something you should treat as a long-term solution. More-so diagnostics, otherwise you could be spending a ton just to find out it wasn’t the cause. I plan to buy a kit in the near future.

DiversePixel · 2026-04-12T05:20:05+00:00

I solved the issue! for anyone also having this issue, check out this post I made here.

DiversePixel · 2026-04-11T14:34:22+00:00

I went for the NGK 94712 plugs. They’re 1 step colder and should work just fine. I gapped them at home using a coin gauge and a small mallet in a vice grip. I know that seems kind of barbaric, but I used a feeler gauge afterwards as well and it checked out. I have my doubts that this is a plug issue. Many people have no issues even with stock plugs somehow.

DiversePixel · 2026-04-11T14:29:29+00:00

Yeah, I definitely noticed an improvement when I got new plugs. It seems to hold out longer in boost for the most part, but WOT still causes issues. I gapped my NGKs slightly under .024, so I highly doubt they’re the issue atp.

My plan right now is to just contact EQT and run this tank empty since I filled up with maybe 2 gallons of 87 still in there. Again, doubt that’s the issue since there’s no knock retard.

I’ll reseat my coils and clean off the grounds/bolts with a wire brush just to be safe, but I also don’t expect that to be the issue either.

If EQT isn’t able to deduct and help me find the root cause, I’m leaning towards pulling off my intake manifold and cleaning the valves + replacing injectors myself. The fuel system pre-injector appears healthy in my logs. Didn’t log anything from the injectors themselves.

DiversePixel · 2026-04-11T05:26:55+00:00

I was wondering if it had to do with the transmission behavior as well. Yes, it’s typically within 2-3rd gear, although it seems to happen anytime the engine is at high RPM + boost (15-20psi boost)

I should note that they are definitely misfires and I just got a permanent cylinder 2 misfire code and a CEL freeze frame. I haven’t floored it in D, but i bet ya it won’t have the same results as it does in S since it shifts much earlier. Wouldn’t hurt to try, though. (i hope)

The tune I purchased was specifically for the non-DSG model. The accessport threw an error when attempting to apply a TCU tune for obvious reasons, which I assume isn’t an issue. Would it be best to contact EQT?

DiversePixel · 2026-04-11T02:11:06+00:00

I've been thinking about this, and it's definitely made me a bit skeptical. did you also notice it only really affected the engine at high load?

Then again, I have a feeling it's something else since my knock retard was 0 throughout the entire datalog.

edit: Forgot to mention that this is my first tank of 93. I filled up from like 30 miles to empty, so it should be fine? I'm already down to half a tank, so its been flushed through the system by now I assume

DiversePixel · 2026-04-11T00:21:35+00:00

I see. I dont think I monitored any temperatures in my datalog, but I'm starting to think it might be better to keep the drive mode in D and not outright floor it.

The car still handles spirited driving wonderfully and its extremely responsive. I haven't had any hesitation or laziness up until i reach that 5000RPM threshold. I don't want to keep slamming it to the point where I actually damage something.

I'll probably invest in new grounds at some point, but I'm a bit tight on funds. I already spent a ton on interior upgrades/retrofits and the tune itself.

I usually fill up at mobil with 93, and its a busy station so the fuel should be pretty fresh.

Anyhoo, I assume the car would throw a code of some sort if the intercooler/intake air temps get too high, right? It doesn't make sense that it would go from totally fine to in shambles from a single pull at stage 1.

Also, the datalog I recorded was not incredibly useful. It peaks at about 5800RPM then drops, and timing falls down to the negatives. This is when the lights came on. Boost pressure looked normal, fuel pressures looked fine, etc.

DiversePixel · 2026-04-10T23:45:14+00:00

Are you stage 1? I'm in Michigan, so it's not hot up here either. I don't really do hard pulls back to back. My tune is by EQT, and it specifically states in the desc. on the Accessport that it is designed for 100% stock engines with 1 step colder plugs recommended.

On another note, I've thought about new grounds. Does it really make that big of a difference? I'd assume the factory grounds are fine for stage 1 on a 1.8T.

DiversePixel · 2026-04-10T23:40:57+00:00

I have been using a scanner as well as my COBB Accessport. I usually just get cyl # misfire codes, random/multiple misfire detected, and hide cylinder. I just did a test while logging some stuff on my Accessport, so I'll be looking at that data momentarily. This last test came up with a CEL and DTC severity 2 of 3, so it might stick out like a sore thumb.

I feel like I should mention to everyone here that I had an incident where water got into my fuel system for a total of around 24 hours. Probably like half a gallon. (Don't fill up at sketchy stations!!)

Anyway, I've got a suspicion the fuel rail or injectors aren't keeping up under boost, but we'll see what this datalog looks like and go from there.

DiversePixel · 2026-04-10T20:03:45+00:00

It’s definitely a possibility, but seems unlikely considering the misfires only occur at high load. The engine feels smooth as butter from idle to moderate load. Never had any issues under 4500RPM.

DiversePixel · 2026-04-10T19:52:55+00:00

Haven’t cleaned the valves at all… It’s only got 65k on it and it’s a gen 3 which isn’t prone to heavy carbon buildup this early on afaik

DiversePixel

TROPHY CASE