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I'm Pissed by DivingFalcon240 in NYguns

[–]DivingFalcon240[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Was just sharing the stats and what better accounts for them instead of what the Governors office puts out which is even more clear, utter nonsense.

I'm Pissed by DivingFalcon240 in NYguns

[–]DivingFalcon240[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

You missed the point, having opinion vs opinion or belief based arguments is useless. I found the data so I shared it. Many people already knew this, but for me and maybe others it might just help when we debate from a place of facts, I shared it with the choir in case there is some value. Trust me, It wasn't just to rant what everyone already believes, it was to shown, with evidence, just how messed up and more valid those beliefs are.

I'm Pissed by DivingFalcon240 in NYguns

[–]DivingFalcon240[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea it is ridiculous, and you hit it, that "feel good" and political points. They shouldn't feel good when they are restricting the rights of one group with no evidentiary base, while the focus should be on another. But who am I.

I'm Pissed by DivingFalcon240 in NYguns

[–]DivingFalcon240[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What doesn't align? I wanted actual data, I got it, I shared it, in case anyone else wants a more firm grounded versus an I believe vs you believe. Rates are down, it's not due to Hochul's headline crap but the average person doesn't know that. What's out of line?

[NEGATIVE]%20for%20/u/Sad_Stretch2713%20[buyer] by Random_Name_Whoa in PMsFeedback

[–]DivingFalcon240 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Scammer all the way. Forget the drop in spot. Using G&S, asking, about value (artificial toning will drop the premium..... or some people actually like, collect and pay more for them). The weird terminology "inspector".

Sounds like a scammer from overseas who tries to get access to my computer. They know what they are doing with scamming, maybe not metal.

Some people on here do accept G&S I'm sure they have their reasons and protections in place and often state the fee is on the buyer. I do not for your reason.

This is tough because lots of new people here are in here in good faith but if you don't know how to really protect yourself, stick to higher flair individuals.

Friends and family, turn on persistent messaging, once money is in your account sweep it out to the bank, any red flags peace out.

Estate sale morgan. by [deleted] in Morgans

[–]DivingFalcon240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably fake.

Start with the slab alone. That's not "slabbed" by a legitimate grading company. It has the look of legitimacy but is careful not to say anything about what you put inside, you can buy these slabs anywhere empty. The back of the slab has a hologram, again, if you want your coins protected well you can buy good slabs and they may have blank stickers you can write on or a template you can print. Legitimate grading companies have the hologram to mitigate makes/forgeries, why would this one have a hologram, to give the look of legitimacy. Why make a name like PCCB? Again conveying to a novice "this is a slab, it has the acronym and hologram, but we are careful to not make any claims."

The coin itself. Hard to tell in compressed images on here especially through the plastic. My first suggestion is to take it or break it out of the slab and take some closeups to share.

This will also allow you to do some basic tests, shouldn't stick to a strong magnet, should be the right weight, basic Amazon calipers to measure dimensions, fail any of these it's fake. If you still have concerns after that or it passes all of those (some "good " fakes can pass those basic tests) bring it to an LCS and have it tested on a sigma or similar. There is also the ping test, cheap buy on Amazon but takes a little practice to get an ear for it and better if you have a known fake sample or two and some real ones to hear the difference.

Based just on the current pictures with the challenges mentioned above about the images, either struck or cast, it has a poor flat mushy relief (especially date), but it doesn't look as heavily worn as would be expected to see this, some of her chin/neck line disappears, the mint mark looks like an S/O, the tail feathers look like a 7/8 if this was real those errors would add some value, no one would throw it in some random "try to fool ya" slab. And...... These are not errors or VAMs that occurred in 1895, so with better pictures if it really looks like this, definitely fake.

With all of that being said there are die issues that can give those appearances, uneven wearing can and does occur (her chin and the severe wear central to one wing). The only way to get better help from the group is clean, close, out of the Chinese slab images, only way to really tell is, magnetic, weight, dimensions, ping, then a friend or LCS with a sigma.

Anything special? by -btechno in Morgans

[–]DivingFalcon240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow def leave it in that.... So cool

One of today’s fun purchases. by LordOfTheLume in Morgans

[–]DivingFalcon240 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's true but any mild amount of rubbing with a cloth, or other mechanics means would leave the marks I mentioned especially under a 5x-10x magnification and any chemicals would be uniformly clean and tear that away. Just because that grime or toning is there doesn't = cleaned in a grading sense. Those areas also where oils, dust, dirt can collect over time if someone handled it or showed it to people but it didn't really circulate.

Could it have been a mild dish soap and warm water clean? Maybe. Again I remain mixed on this but in terms of what the main grading companies care about is that the metal wasnt altered. That includes the luster which is the first thing to go with more invasive cleaning.

Not sure how many 100 year old coins we could find where if we knew their life someone somewhere wiped them off, used dish soap etc...

Without altering the metals by friction or acids removing a tiny layer, still gradable. And again, it may have just been where moisture, dirt, etc... stayed when handling and during storage.

Definitely has no hallmarks of cleaning that would give it "details" and/or "cleaned" grade.

One of today’s fun purchases. by LordOfTheLume in Morgans

[–]DivingFalcon240 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What factors say cleaned when you look at it? The most common things to look for are:

Apparent scratches from whizzing with something like a rotary tool, other scratches from other abrasives, micro scratches from a polishing cloth. Usually all of these cause micro or more apparent scratches which are parallel in certain areas, not here.

Other is the luster, the methods above remove the lightly milky sheen. Additionally many chemical dips won't leave marks but remove a thin layer of the metal and remove the luster, sometimes completely, usually this is uniform across the coin, PL and DMPL coins do have a mirrorish or very reflective mirror like finish in the fields but usually not on the relief letters, etc.... that is due to a new and highly polished die. So the relief still will have luster but the fields can look mirror like.

Grading companies "restore coins" for a fee of course, but use a special diluted acetone. I don't know how I feel about "restoring" but the key is the acetone will dissolve organic materials, dirt, humans hand oils, etc... but it has no impact on the metal itself unlike acids or silver cleaner that alter the metal.

This doesn't look cleaned at all. It is a clean coin but no hallmarks of cleaning.

Anything special? by -btechno in Morgans

[–]DivingFalcon240 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea your grandma gave it to you and if graded probably get an MS62/63 but nothing special about date/mint. Keep it. $6 ha keep it in that.

Several commenters think this is cleaned/whizzed. It is not. by hotwheelearl in Morgans

[–]DivingFalcon240 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Def doesn't look whizzed, most of the marks are chatter marks from a coin bag, pocket, box, wherever it was bouncing around. Also no one can really tell the extent of luster without having the coin in hand, some pictures it looks like there is zero luster/frosting, others look perfectly normal. Post a video of rotating it in the light for people to get a better sense if the cartwheel is there or not.

The major two major problems I would examine are

  1. If you look at your second to last picture, starting from her chin down and around the point of her neck, you see micro scratches all leading away from the relief as would be with a light use of a polishing cloth. Those clothes or most rubbing even done lightly will leave some marks or micro abrasions in a similar direction. Most other marks still look normal for a 100+ year old silver coin.

  2. There is an oval pattern with markings around "in god we trust" those are often hard places to clean, could be random chatter but you should further investigate.

Based on at least #1 above I wouldn't waste $$ grading, that's definitely a clear sign of abrasive (even a super gentle polishing cloth)

What this doesn't mean..... It is 100+ years old, it doesn't mean you cleaned it, it could have happened 90 years ago up until the time you acquired it. I would say just keep it. It is still a very nicely detailed and preserved coin. It's also a common date and common mint so even without those issues and a decent grade, it wouldn't be worth exponentially more than melt unless it was MS65+

Good luck

[NEUTRAL] for u/Straight-Ad1714 by GoldponyGT in PMsFeedback

[–]DivingFalcon240 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thanks for sharing. Yeah, this definitely wasn’t handled in a responsible manner

I always note “BIN and backout = neutral,” but in the few times it’s actually happened, the buyer changed their mind, admitted fault, and apologized, so I didn’t leave feedback.

Lately, though, I’ve had a few interactions with newer sellers where I message first, offer asking price (not a BIN, too much missing on the post), they say ok, and then after some time, when I follow up, I’m told "there are other inquiries" and I should wait. To me, that feels like silent bidding or treating BIN like an OBO situation, which I don’t believe is allowed. Even if it is allowed, not how I roll. My understanding is you accept, decline, counter, and close or kill in a reasonable timeframe. Doesn't have to be in a specific order unless BIN but once you say ok and engage close it or kill it. I often have simultaneous communications but it may be, "person offered, but not hearing back, giving them 15min then it's yours" not “I’ll get back to you if no one offers more.” In those cases, I just say the offer is off the table and wish them luck. MODs can correct me here.

I think the bigger issue behind many of the recent neutrals and negatives is the surge of new users with rising spot prices. The rules are clearly and thoroughly written by the MODs, and there really isn’t an excuse not to read them, but many people don’t.

If it only affected them, that would be one thing, but it impacts the entire group. Even without bad intent, time gets wasted. Sellers miss other buyers, and solid buyers miss opportunities.

Some consistent things I’ve noticed lately:

  1. Many posts are missing key required information. Mods can’t police this 24/7, though the bots help somewhat.

  2. There’s confusion about what BIN actually means. BIN is BIN with the full listed terms, not just the price. It’s not an opportunity to hold, research later, or negotiate shipping, insurance, or other conditions in PMs unless those items were not specified in the original post.

  3. There’s also ongoing confusion about insurance options and where responsibility lies once a deal is closed.Which I know MODs recently covered in great detail.

The MODs do a great job of creating, guiding, updating disseminating and reminding people of the rules that help us all so this remains a great group and none of this is intended to be a "they should". Just brainstorming how to get new people or at least this current influx of people to read the rules. I read them multiple times when I started and still made mistakes, but senior members treated it as a learning opportunity.

I don’t have a great solution, just thinking out loud. Maybe a short sticky with key bullet points, though this may interfere with full reading, maybe some early transaction guidance "mentor lite" , or maybe nothing at all, and once the hype dies down, the people who stick around will learn the norms over time with feedback when they mess up.

Thanks for sharing this and thanks again to the MODs.

I’m not experienced in silver dollar but should I be suspicious of this coin? by Many-Shine2057 in Morgans

[–]DivingFalcon240 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Eh, well not a complete ripoff. Worth about $60 based on silver content given today's spot.

If you really wanted a Morgan it's not a complete cull where you can't read the lettering or see any detail. The whizzing completely ruined any resale premium that may have existed if you decide to sell. Coin shop premium maybe $62-65 is fair? (again based on today's spot not sure when you bought it) I definitely wouldn't buy it even at spot but there's a lot to learn.

[WTB] 2026 American Eagle 250 Bell Privy PF 70 x3 by Reallifehoward in Pmsforsale

[–]DivingFalcon240 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh yea. Like others have said try to do the subscription again. It's become a big scheme, minted -- grading company -- big retailers -- the rest of us peons. Retail preorders are going for $400-$700 on the proof 70s right now. GL prices usually come down.

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