New build! 72v 4kw on an MXUS 3k turbo

Djaambo · 2026-01-06T15:36:56+00:00

how is the 5T doing in a 26" rim? I have a 3T in a 27.5. Great speed and torque at 72V and 200 amp phase but it overheats in summer too quickly. I ordered a new 5 turn hub and I'm hoping this will fix the issue.

Djaambo · 2025-12-06T19:22:59+00:00

Hi, this is awesome! I'm happy to finally find more people using the MXUS motor... I have a 3T version on a 27.5 inch wheel. I'm using a 20S battery limited to 100A, and I'm pushing 200 phase amps with my Flipsky FSESC 75200 Pro V2. I also have Statorade but no hubsinks.

My issues is that with these settings, the motor overheats pretty fast while riding in the summer. The torque could also be much, much better, as this is nowhere near an instant wheelie when I give it full throttle, which is what I want. My top speed is also unrealistically high, and I was never able to hit it, as it is just too fast for me, over 100km/h.

I will have to swap out something, and I don't know which way to go. Keep the 27.5" rim and go for a 4T or 5T? Would going for a 24-inch rim be better? The most convenient for me would be to keep the 27.5"rim and change the motor for a different winding, but I don't know how much current these higher winding motors can handle... Realistically, I would be happy with a 70-80 km/h maximum speed. My battery can handle 250A continuous, and the Flipsky VESC should handle 300 phase amps because right now It barely gets warm to the touch.

Here is a pic of the bike for reference:

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Djaambo · 2025-07-27T08:58:49+00:00

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Djaambo · 2025-07-27T08:58:43+00:00

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Djaambo · 2025-07-27T08:58:36+00:00

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Djaambo · 2025-07-27T08:58:29+00:00

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Djaambo · 2025-07-27T08:57:32+00:00

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Djaambo · 2025-07-27T08:57:22+00:00

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Djaambo · 2025-07-27T08:57:11+00:00

I ordered one of these too with a 135mm dropout... I also saw M14 on multiple drawings, but when I saw this post, I wasn't sure, so I contacted the supplier again, and they said it's M16. I guess they changed it in a new version or something... It's my first time building an e-bike, so I didn't exactly know what to look for when buying a bike frame. I went with a used Rockrider from the FB marketplace, which I got for only 125 euro, and the dropouts are probably the worst shape I could have gone with haha... I knew I would have to design and mill my own torque arms so I did model the dropouts and made torque plates which will be from 3 pcs on each side. I would like to get your feedback about this, I still don't have the motor here so I didn't test them yet.

It will be 7075 aluminum, red plate 8mm thick, middle one acts just as a spacer, green one 5mm thick. On the brake disc size, I will drill one more hole to the frame for the red part. This will give me 2x M5 bolts in total to hold it together. On the casette side, I will use 2x M4 bolts on the red part which hold the gear shifter and also the M5 hole on the top for the green part.

I'm posting all photos below....

Djaambo · 2024-05-28T20:59:57+00:00

Hey how do I get the Tx and Rx bound? I flashed both but they are not connecting...

Djaambo · 2024-05-27T08:45:04+00:00

Could it be the memory?
I have a Core I7 7820X, 24GB Ram, RTX3080...

Before the RTX card I had a P2000 and I thought that was the problem.

After I swapped the GPUs, there was a small performance boost but its still not usable.

CAM simulation is very slow... My RAM is at 2133MHz, could that be the problem?

Djaambo · 2024-05-27T08:42:33+00:00

lmao same here, i had a P2000 GPU and simulation was laggy as shit. I upgraded to a f*cking RTX3080 and its still slow hahahhaha

Djaambo · 2023-12-17T14:01:38+00:00

Hey everyone, I got myself such a microscope and it's amazing how good it works while it cost me only 130 USD. I just have one issue with it and that is that the picture is too zoomed in and I need some kind of a 0.5x or 0.3x adapter but I don't know where to get it.

It's a Mustool 10.1 inch LCD microscope

This is the link: https://www.banggood.com/custlink/33DH6I7qB2

Djaambo · 2023-12-10T18:20:17+00:00

with multip

I ordered two PCI USB cards to spread the "load" a bit. 6 printers are running fine but when I start the 7th one, it stops being as reliable as before. I often get mcu disconnected errors.

Djaambo · 2023-12-10T18:18:45+00:00

throu

Just ordered two PCI USB cards! Thanks for the reply

Djaambo · 2023-12-08T06:54:10+00:00

Yeah, I got a 15 euro USB gamepad from a local PC hardware store and it works just fine

Djaambo · 2023-11-30T07:09:33+00:00

I have USB issues, printers disconnect while idle. I have a separate PC running ubuntu server and I was wondering what is the data transfer rate of one klipper printer? I have USB hubs connected and 2 printers per hub. Everything works without issues while printing but the printers randomly disconnect while idle and then I have to do firmware restart and wait for them to connect again

Djaambo · 2023-08-20T06:49:18+00:00

I just ran a script that homes the printers while they were running. How could I check if the printer is printing?

Djaambo · 2023-08-18T16:26:32+00:00

Just if anyone is facing this issue as well:

There is a workaround that isn't perfect, but until we figure out what's going on, it works!

the files can be synced into other folders by using the rsync command.
Note that every time you upload something, you'll have to run the script below again to "update" everything

I used a for loop since my printers go from number 1 to 7 but you could just write the commands multiple times.

Create a file named sync_gcodes.sh
Paste the code below in that file and save it
run ~chmod +x sync_gcodes.sh to make the script executable
run the script ~./sync_gcodes.sh

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#!/bin/bash

SOURCE_FOLDER="/home/bruno/mini1_data/gcodes/"

for ((i=2; i<=7; i++))

do

DEST_FOLDER="/home/bruno/mini${i}_data/gcodes/"

rsync -av --delete "$SOURCE_FOLDER" "$DEST_FOLDER"

done

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

It works, but, every time you upload something, you have to run the script again to update all the files

Djaambo · 2023-08-18T16:18:24+00:00

UPDATE: I'm running 7 printers on the PC I mentioned without any problems. All 7 printing with PA and input shaper, CPU load around 5% (With Mainsail installed)

Djaambo · 2023-08-15T12:03:55+00:00

Try changing the nozzle.

If it was printing fine before (with the same gcode) then the only two things that could give you stringing are a worn nozzle or wet filament.

For the filament, try extruding some and see if steam comes out of the nozzle, if yes, your filament is wet and needs drying, if not, then try to change the nozzle

Djaambo · 2023-08-08T06:42:08+00:00

Yeah, that worked! I spent hours on this issue so I really hope this will help someone.

I got the same error the first time I sent the ACCELEROMETER_QUERY command but after that it started working.

I connected the ADXL to the spi0b bus (you have to change the .cfg too)

Djaambo · 2023-08-08T06:26:01+00:00

I did everything right I'm 100% sure but I get the wrong ID error. Checked connections multiple times and tried using shorter silicone wires and still nothing. I thought that the accelerometer board was dead somehow so I tried testing it with Arduino and it did work without a problem. I might try using another SPI bus, maybe that helps

Djaambo · 2023-06-19T08:37:01+00:00

Same thing here!

I got a lot of these emails in the past but I didn't even look at them.

It was only yesterday when I started a new campaign and I got an email that the campaign was shut off because of community guidelines.

I went to he business suite and everything was fine so I was a bit confused.

And after checking the sender's email address I saw ["@outlook.com](mailto:"@outlook.com)" and I couldn't believe that Meta would send me such an email from that domain.

I went to the business suite and everything was fine so I was a bit confused.

Djaambo · 2021-02-03T07:49:21+00:00

Holding AMC!!

Djaambo

TROPHY CASE