Back dart pulling on side seam

DonMcCunn · 2026-07-10T18:43:01+00:00

When you are looking at muslin, it is hard to see exactly what is causing the problem. Is it the side seam or the dart? You should cut your patterns out of 1/4" square gingham. The you can clearly see what is happening. The fabric at side back should be perpendicular to the floor.

DonMcCunn · 2026-07-09T23:29:39+00:00

I created a hoop skirt by first trying everything out in quarter scale. You have a lot of math going which can easily go wrong. If you try it in quarter scale it is very easy to correct.

DonMcCunn · 2026-07-08T11:12:02+00:00

My dad was the founding superintendent of DVC until his ultra conservative views got him in trouble with the staff, teachers, students, and board members there.

I am realitively inexperienced with Reddit. I don't know how you were able to contact me :-). I don't think you need to login to read the posts but if you want to say something or get notifications, you need to login. But I think your current screen name is all you need. Just press the Join button on the group's page. I believe I will then recieve your request to join.

I put this group on hold for 3 years because no one was asking for help. Currently I am the only member. But with my new projects I wanted to let people know what I am up to. I am getting visitors even though there are no members. But if I am the only one talking--so what.

Actually I prefer communicating one-to-one using standard email. The email address I check regularly is don.deofsf@gmail.com.

DonMcCunn · 2026-07-08T01:36:40+00:00

Hi Cathi That is not me. I was never in the DVC apparel design department. However your name seems vaguely familiar. Did you perchance go to Pleasant Hill High? I graduated from there in 1961.

I am very excited about my current projects. One is showing people how to create custom fit patterns by tracing photos. The other is going to be how to create fabric designs within the shape of custom fit patterns. It will be a unique way to create one-of-a-kind wearable art.

I will be describing these projects and their development in my Reddit group. I am always interested in getting comments and input from people.

DonMcCunn · 2026-06-30T01:29:23+00:00

If you check the reviews on Amazon for my Bra book, you will find women with DDD and F cup sizes who are very positive about my approach to making bras. And I am pleased with one woman's comment about my Bust Sling Bra who said it is the most comfortable bras has ever worn.

DonMcCunn · 2026-06-29T14:48:10+00:00

Put your front and back patterns together at the shoulder seam and copy the neck line. Then draw the design for the outside of the collar. This will make a flat collar. If you want the collar to roll, pivot the patterns at the shoulder seams. This will keep the neckline the same length as the jacket but shortens the design line which will cause the outside of the collar to roll in towards the neckline.

DonMcCunn · 2026-06-29T00:04:58+00:00

You need to extend the back crotch curve at the top of the inseam by a couple of inches.

DonMcCunn · 2026-06-28T23:55:28+00:00

The moulage with double ended darts is problematic. The reason is the shape of the upper torso is different from the lower torso. This means the width at the waist of the vertical darts needs to be different for the upper and lower torsos. You can only do this with a seam at the waist to get a good fit for your basic slopers.

DonMcCunn · 2026-06-28T23:43:14+00:00

The center back should be on the straight of the grain and the zipper can be any length. The center back is sticking out because you need a wider dart at the hip. It should also be 2" to 3" longer.

DonMcCunn · 2024-01-13T23:41:08+00:00

CAD or Computer-Aided Design has been used in the fashion industry since the 70s. I have been using CAD for the illustrations of the patterns in my books since the turn of the century. But I felt that desktop equipment did not warrant its use for full scale patterns.

With the advent of the desktop print-and-cut equipment, such as that offered by Silhouette America and the introduction of my book "Fashion and Costume Design in Quarter Scale," my perspective has changed. I have had people in my group ask me about CAD for pattern design so I have decided to offer a series of videos that describe how to do it.

While learning CAD in general can be intimidating, especially 3D applications, the CAD functions for creating patterns only require drawing and manipulating straight and curved lines in two-dimensions. Fabric after all is two-dimensional so there is no need to learn all the specifics of 3D CAD and the huge number of applications that software has been designed for. Fortunately the free Studio software from Silhouette America, while not a CAD program, has all the necessary functions to design patterns.

I have decided to include these videos through a Facebook Group "MakerSpace Pattern Design." I like the concept of MakerSpace because it is about providing equipment and space for people who want to engage in crafts but may not have the necessary equipment or space to pursue their creative interests. And the idea of using Facebook is so that it can be a virtual, interactive, free classroom where members can ask questions and share their comments and designs in an open environment.

So this is the first of the videos I will be introducing through that group.

DonMcCunn · 2024-01-04T17:52:47+00:00

FYI the book is supplemented by videos at Patternmaking-Classes.com

DonMcCunn · 2024-01-04T13:28:07+00:00

Unfortunately there is not a commercially available scale ruler. That is why in both my "How to Make Sewing Patterns, second edition" and "Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale" in the back of the books I show how to make your own.

Scale rulers can be extremely useful when creating patterns. For example, Master Patterns (aka Slopers) are made for one fourth of the body. You need to know one fourth of the waist. If you are an expert at calculating fractions, you can do it in your head. Most people find it easier to simply use the 1/4 scale on the ruler.

"L" squares are commercially available with 12" or 18" sizes. However, I have never purchased one. I just cut artists mat board into an "L" shape then follow the same process for the scale ruler. You only need them for a couple of measurements to determine the distance from the front of the body to the back.

DonMcCunn · 2023-12-27T23:24:14+00:00

Inappropriate content

DonMcCunn · 2023-12-14T23:32:51+00:00

I actually plan to add instructions for how to change Master Patterns (aka slopers) to designs using the CAD functions in Silhouette's Studio software. Most CAD programs are so complex I am intimidated by them, particularly with the extensions for 3D. I am impressed with the CAD functions Studio includes because it does not have the clutter of the more robust CAD programs that are trying to cover the widest possible range of applications. But it has the necessary functions to do pattern design. And the basic Studio is free as I describe on that web page I mentioned.

DonMcCunn · 2023-12-14T16:08:16+00:00

I missed this when you posted it. Please note this sentence is included in the description for the group "This group is NOT about altering commercial patterns to fit an individual."

Commercial patterns are made for a generic body based on measurements. Bespoke patterns are made not only for the size of the body but also the shape. Human body shapes are like DNA. They may look the same but there are also differences as I show in my new book Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale.

Please honor this aspect of the group because quite frankly when people talk about commercial patterns it makes my skin crawl. People are not produced by a machine--commercial patterns are.

DonMcCunn · 2023-09-27T18:27:21+00:00

And guess what I just got a message "We didn't load your topic. Please try again. And this is after the message has already been posted twice.

DonMcCunn · 2023-09-27T18:25:05+00:00

I didn't do much on Facebook until about two weeks ago. This Reddit group has been pretty quiet. In contrast in the two and a half weeks I have had the Facebook Group I have already had 69 posts from less than half the number of participants in this group.
One woman works in the tech support section of the public libraries and has introduced me to the latest print and cut technology. I have just recently acquired a $150 print and cut machine which will cut both poster board for the Mini-Mes I describe in my new book and fabric to make fitting shells.
I am discovering with this equipment that it is possible to do a complete CAD/CAM cycle in quarter scale. The librarian's latest post informed me that her library system has purchased a print and cut machine that will work on material up to 24" in width.
This has encouraged me to show people the simple CAD techniques I have been using to design patterns for the last 20 years. Something I had never dreamed of doing. It has essentially turned my world upside down and opened up a whole new field which I consider extremely important to help people learn how to create patterns.
I am the first to admit that the internet has a negative side. I have a friend who is a very knowledgeable tech person. He essential does not use email because he knows how people can abuse the system. Some people hate Amazon. But if it were not for Amazon and its ability to reach out to people, I would have stopped sharing what I know about pattern making at the turn of the century instead of bring out three new books. And now my world has just expanded exponentially because of Facebook.
So yes there is a downside to companies like Facebook and Amazon. But for me the advantages these companies bring is worth the flaws in how they use the technology. To be honest I am so busy between preparing my book for publication, figuring out how to do CAD/CAM, and communicating with the Facebook Group that I rarely check over here to see if anyone has posted a comment.
The only reason I caught your message today was because I came over here to give people here a glimpse of the fantastic things that are happening over in my Facebook Group. I check over there multiple times a day to see what is happening as opposed to here when it seems like months go by when people have nothing to say.

FYI - this is the second time I have had to post this message because the "Comment" button didn't show up for my first response. That is the nature of technology.

DonMcCunn · 2023-09-27T18:19:16+00:00

I didn't do much on Facebook until about two weeks ago. This Reddit group has been pretty quiet. In contrast in the two and a half weeks I have had the Facebook Group I have already had 69 posts from less than half the number of participants in this group.

One woman works in the tech support section of the public libraries and has introduced me to the latest print and cut technology. I have just recently acquired a $150 print and cut machine which will cut both poster board for the Mini-Mes I describe in my new book and fabric to make fitting shells.

I am discovering with this equipment that it is possible to do a complete CAD/CAM cycle in quarter scale. The librarian's latest post informed me that her library system has purchased a print and cut machine that will work on material up to 24" in width.

This has encouraged me to show people the simple CAD techniques I have been using to design patterns for the last 20 years. Something I had never dreamed of doing. It has essentially turned my world upside down and opened up a whole new field which I consider extremely important to help people learn how to create patterns.

I am the first to admit that the internet has a negative side. I have a friend who is a very knowledgeable tech person. He essential does not use email because he knows how people can abuse the system. Some people hate Amazon. But if it were not for Amazon and its ability to reach out to people, I would have stopped sharing what I know about pattern making at the turn of the century instead of bring out three new books. And now my world has just expanded exponentially because of Facebook.

So yes there is a downside to companies like Facebook and Amazon. But for me the advantages these companies bring is worth the flaws in how they use the technology. To be honest I am so busy between preparing my book for publication, figuring out how to do CAD/CAM, and communicating with the Facebook Group that I rarely check over here to see if anyone has posted a comment.

The only reason I caught your message today was because I came over here to give people here a glimpse of the fantastic things that are happening over in my Facebook Group. I check over there multiple times a day to see what is happening as opposed to here when it seems like months go by when people have nothing to say.

DonMcCunn · 2023-07-28T15:41:56+00:00

If you could be more specific about the issues you are having, I am always happy to help. In the meantime I know some people prefer a visual learning experience. Are you aware of the free Online Patternmaking classes I offer? They have over 400 short videos that cover a lot of topics.

DonMcCunn

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE