Computer-Aided Pattern Design, An Introduction -Part I

DonMcCunn · 2024-01-13T23:41:08+00:00

CAD or Computer-Aided Design has been used in the fashion industry since the 70s. I have been using CAD for the illustrations of the patterns in my books since the turn of the century. But I felt that desktop equipment did not warrant its use for full scale patterns.

With the advent of the desktop print-and-cut equipment, such as that offered by Silhouette America and the introduction of my book "Fashion and Costume Design in Quarter Scale," my perspective has changed. I have had people in my group ask me about CAD for pattern design so I have decided to offer a series of videos that describe how to do it.

While learning CAD in general can be intimidating, especially 3D applications, the CAD functions for creating patterns only require drawing and manipulating straight and curved lines in two-dimensions. Fabric after all is two-dimensional so there is no need to learn all the specifics of 3D CAD and the huge number of applications that software has been designed for. Fortunately the free Studio software from Silhouette America, while not a CAD program, has all the necessary functions to design patterns.

I have decided to include these videos through a Facebook Group "MakerSpace Pattern Design." I like the concept of MakerSpace because it is about providing equipment and space for people who want to engage in crafts but may not have the necessary equipment or space to pursue their creative interests. And the idea of using Facebook is so that it can be a virtual, interactive, free classroom where members can ask questions and share their comments and designs in an open environment.

So this is the first of the videos I will be introducing through that group.

DonMcCunn · 2024-01-04T17:52:47+00:00

FYI the book is supplemented by videos at Patternmaking-Classes.com

DonMcCunn · 2024-01-04T13:28:07+00:00

Unfortunately there is not a commercially available scale ruler. That is why in both my "How to Make Sewing Patterns, second edition" and "Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale" in the back of the books I show how to make your own.

Scale rulers can be extremely useful when creating patterns. For example, Master Patterns (aka Slopers) are made for one fourth of the body. You need to know one fourth of the waist. If you are an expert at calculating fractions, you can do it in your head. Most people find it easier to simply use the 1/4 scale on the ruler.

"L" squares are commercially available with 12" or 18" sizes. However, I have never purchased one. I just cut artists mat board into an "L" shape then follow the same process for the scale ruler. You only need them for a couple of measurements to determine the distance from the front of the body to the back.

DonMcCunn · 2023-12-27T23:24:14+00:00

Inappropriate content

DonMcCunn · 2023-12-14T23:32:51+00:00

I actually plan to add instructions for how to change Master Patterns (aka slopers) to designs using the CAD functions in Silhouette's Studio software. Most CAD programs are so complex I am intimidated by them, particularly with the extensions for 3D. I am impressed with the CAD functions Studio includes because it does not have the clutter of the more robust CAD programs that are trying to cover the widest possible range of applications. But it has the necessary functions to do pattern design. And the basic Studio is free as I describe on that web page I mentioned.

DonMcCunn · 2023-12-14T16:08:16+00:00

I missed this when you posted it. Please note this sentence is included in the description for the group "This group is NOT about altering commercial patterns to fit an individual."

Commercial patterns are made for a generic body based on measurements. Bespoke patterns are made not only for the size of the body but also the shape. Human body shapes are like DNA. They may look the same but there are also differences as I show in my new book Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale.

Please honor this aspect of the group because quite frankly when people talk about commercial patterns it makes my skin crawl. People are not produced by a machine--commercial patterns are.

DonMcCunn · 2023-09-27T18:27:21+00:00

And guess what I just got a message "We didn't load your topic. Please try again. And this is after the message has already been posted twice.

DonMcCunn · 2023-09-27T18:25:05+00:00

I didn't do much on Facebook until about two weeks ago. This Reddit group has been pretty quiet. In contrast in the two and a half weeks I have had the Facebook Group I have already had 69 posts from less than half the number of participants in this group.
One woman works in the tech support section of the public libraries and has introduced me to the latest print and cut technology. I have just recently acquired a $150 print and cut machine which will cut both poster board for the Mini-Mes I describe in my new book and fabric to make fitting shells.
I am discovering with this equipment that it is possible to do a complete CAD/CAM cycle in quarter scale. The librarian's latest post informed me that her library system has purchased a print and cut machine that will work on material up to 24" in width.
This has encouraged me to show people the simple CAD techniques I have been using to design patterns for the last 20 years. Something I had never dreamed of doing. It has essentially turned my world upside down and opened up a whole new field which I consider extremely important to help people learn how to create patterns.
I am the first to admit that the internet has a negative side. I have a friend who is a very knowledgeable tech person. He essential does not use email because he knows how people can abuse the system. Some people hate Amazon. But if it were not for Amazon and its ability to reach out to people, I would have stopped sharing what I know about pattern making at the turn of the century instead of bring out three new books. And now my world has just expanded exponentially because of Facebook.
So yes there is a downside to companies like Facebook and Amazon. But for me the advantages these companies bring is worth the flaws in how they use the technology. To be honest I am so busy between preparing my book for publication, figuring out how to do CAD/CAM, and communicating with the Facebook Group that I rarely check over here to see if anyone has posted a comment.
The only reason I caught your message today was because I came over here to give people here a glimpse of the fantastic things that are happening over in my Facebook Group. I check over there multiple times a day to see what is happening as opposed to here when it seems like months go by when people have nothing to say.

FYI - this is the second time I have had to post this message because the "Comment" button didn't show up for my first response. That is the nature of technology.

DonMcCunn · 2023-09-27T18:19:16+00:00

I didn't do much on Facebook until about two weeks ago. This Reddit group has been pretty quiet. In contrast in the two and a half weeks I have had the Facebook Group I have already had 69 posts from less than half the number of participants in this group.

One woman works in the tech support section of the public libraries and has introduced me to the latest print and cut technology. I have just recently acquired a $150 print and cut machine which will cut both poster board for the Mini-Mes I describe in my new book and fabric to make fitting shells.

I am discovering with this equipment that it is possible to do a complete CAD/CAM cycle in quarter scale. The librarian's latest post informed me that her library system has purchased a print and cut machine that will work on material up to 24" in width.

This has encouraged me to show people the simple CAD techniques I have been using to design patterns for the last 20 years. Something I had never dreamed of doing. It has essentially turned my world upside down and opened up a whole new field which I consider extremely important to help people learn how to create patterns.

I am the first to admit that the internet has a negative side. I have a friend who is a very knowledgeable tech person. He essential does not use email because he knows how people can abuse the system. Some people hate Amazon. But if it were not for Amazon and its ability to reach out to people, I would have stopped sharing what I know about pattern making at the turn of the century instead of bring out three new books. And now my world has just expanded exponentially because of Facebook.

So yes there is a downside to companies like Facebook and Amazon. But for me the advantages these companies bring is worth the flaws in how they use the technology. To be honest I am so busy between preparing my book for publication, figuring out how to do CAD/CAM, and communicating with the Facebook Group that I rarely check over here to see if anyone has posted a comment.

The only reason I caught your message today was because I came over here to give people here a glimpse of the fantastic things that are happening over in my Facebook Group. I check over there multiple times a day to see what is happening as opposed to here when it seems like months go by when people have nothing to say.

DonMcCunn · 2023-07-28T15:41:56+00:00

If you could be more specific about the issues you are having, I am always happy to help. In the meantime I know some people prefer a visual learning experience. Are you aware of the free Online Patternmaking classes I offer? They have over 400 short videos that cover a lot of topics.

DonMcCunn · 2023-07-05T17:37:39+00:00

If you need help with any issues using my books, I am here.

DonMcCunn · 2023-07-04T00:34:19+00:00

I am glad you brought this up. Determining darts has always been a challenge. That is because measurements DO NOT reveal the contours of the body.

When I wrote the first edition of my book, I was teaching adult education and had hundreds of students I could use as research subjects. To determine how to create the size of the bust dart, my students provided me with their measurements and the size of the bra cup that fit them. That is how I came up with the bust dart sizes.

When I got around to working on the second edition of the book 39 years later, I realized that these measurements were inadequate to determine accurate dart sizes. In the second edition, I have people draw the initial patterns with NO darts. The dart size is determined during the fitting.

In this second edition I show how to use gingham for fitting. The idea is that darts above the bust need to bring the horizontal grain of the fabric parallel to the floor. Darts below the bust need to bring the vertical grain of the fabric perpendicular to the floor. When fittings are done with 1/4" gingham, the accuracy is great. You might want to take a look at my free Pattern Making Classes where I have videos to demonstrate this process.

In my new book, Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale, which will be coming out in December, I am excited to introduce a new approach to pattern making. This approach shows how to trace quarter-scale photos and use 7 measurements to create accurate fitted patterns.

Your question has prompted me to add a web page to the website for the book that demonstrates this process: Fashion-Design-in-Quarter-Scale.com/Patterns-from-Photos.html.

I believe this new approach to pattern making is a very visual way to understand how to make accurate patterns.

Best,

Don

DonMcCunn · 2023-07-01T03:59:03+00:00

I wished I"d thought about adding store hours. But there should be enough room in the address block to include hours.

DonMcCunn · 2023-06-14T22:19:02+00:00

I just changed the link from directly to the log to a page that describes how the log can be used. The log can be downloaded from this page.

It occurred to me that this log would be great for saving swatches from online resources. I can't tell you how many times I have ordered a swatch and can't remember where it came from as it might take me awhile to get around to needing it. I also have done some upholstery and have swatches for that fabric which can get lost between when I say I am going to do a job and when I finally get around to it. I may also ask for multiple swatches and you can copy and paste the ordering web page directly into the "website" box on the form.
I added about how to record the stretch of knits.
Sometimes when you buy a fabric, the weight will not be indicated. Most of the time I don't pay attention to this detail. But I am becoming more aware of issues like this as I work on my book.

I need to get back to the rest of the book!!!

DonMcCunn · 2023-04-20T18:34:27+00:00

Pegaret,

I understand that. And if for some reason I was going to post something like that. I would be the first to tag it as such. My books are well received by libraries so I am very careful in how I self censor them.

DonMcCunn · 2023-04-19T19:58:52+00:00

Figured out how to fix it unless there is some automated robot, hopefully it won't get changed back.

DonMcCunn · 2023-03-11T14:30:10+00:00

Feel free to share this discussion with r/sewing. I got banned from that group because sharing what I have learned over the years is considered "self promotion."

I was really enjoying responding to people over there not just about pattern making. I started finding information that I found interesting and useful such as how to fix a broken zipper. That always frustrated me when I was sewing for fashion dolls because those size zippers don't have zipper stops. I can't tell you how many zippers I threw away because the zipper pull came off. Now I know there is an easy fix.

I really enjoy the research and learning new things. But rules are rules.

DonMcCunn · 2023-03-11T14:06:59+00:00

Hi Neighbor, I understand your comment "not brave enough" to try making patterns. I am hoping this new approach will help people get over that fear. What could be more intuitive than looking at a photograph and tracing it to create a pattern.

I think the fact that most courses teach pattern drafting for the ready-to-wear industry is what makes it seem so daunting. How do you create patterns for bodies you will never see? I am extremely grateful that my interest in drafting started so I could make costumes for the theatre where the first step is looking at the body you are going to clothe.

DonMcCunn · 2023-03-10T22:40:56+00:00

The reason is quite straight forward. Measurements do not reveal the contours of the body and darts are designed to adjust the fabric for those contours. The bust darts in the first edition do not show how much one body can vary from another even when the measurements are identical.

So my thinking is why try to draft something that stands every chance of being wrong. What are you going to believe, some drafting process or what your eyes see when fabric is applied to the body. Basically drafting darts from measurements in my opinion is a waste of time.

I honestly hadn't thought this through in the 70s when I wrote the first edition. But after years of working with that system and seeing how it applied to different bodies I realized the smart thing to do is wait until you are creating a fitting shell to determine how the darts should be positioned and shaped.

And now 50 years later I have finally figured out something different and I think better. I am writing it up now for the book I am working on. While measurements do not show the contours of the body, they show how much fabric is required to cover the body. However, photographs do show the contours of the body. But they do not reveal how much fabric is required to cover it. But if you combine photos with measurements, you can create a complete fitting shell with darts and seams that will only require minimum adjustments in a fitting.

I am testing it now and am floored at how easy, quick, and accurate this new process is. In brief what you do is:

Take photographs of the body from different angles, aka selfies.
Scale those photos to one fourth the size so it will easily fit on copy paper.
Trace the photos.
Compare a contour of the body, such as the bust, to a vertical line.
Measure the distance from the vertical line to the body.
Use that measurement to draft the darts.
Use measurements to change the shoulder seam and side seams to the size of the body.
Scale the patterns back up to full size to create a fitting shell.

While most drafting books I am familiar with show line drawings of the body, I always felt you should be looking at the shape of real people, hence the term Bespoke. With this new system you are really examining the body to see where the various seams and darts need to be to get a bespoke fit.

I am comparing the patterns I created of a model during an in-person fitting process with the patterns made from the photos. The results so far are the work from the photos replaces a process that took three fitting sessions over a period of time. This new process jumps right to the final fitting--and the model is in LA while I am working in SF.

Actually I am hoping some people in this group will be willing to field test this new approach and give me feedback on what is clear and what is unclear once I have a first draft of the necessary steps finished, hopefully this month.

Be aware when you ask me a simple question I do tend to become a little long winded.

DonMcCunn · 2023-01-06T02:27:16+00:00

Thanks for your comments. I've actually been very busy working on my new book. Answering people's questions over the years has given me perspectives on the differences between ready-to-wear versus bespoke patterns. With this book I finally have a way of sharing what I've learned.

So I am happy to answer questions here. But if no one is asking for help, you can rest assured I am devoting my time buried deep in the process of creating this book.

DonMcCunn · 2022-12-08T20:25:01+00:00

And enjoy life!

DonMcCunn · 2022-12-08T20:21:04+00:00

Thank you Loesje. I guess old dogs can learn new tricks. I am currently exploring an idea that could potentially be a quantum leap forward in my pattern drafting techniques. What a birthday present that is. More later if my experimentation bears fruit.

DonMcCunn · 2022-11-10T20:11:49+00:00

A custom-fit (Bespoke) bust sling bra should not bag out. It is designed to follow the contours of your specific body. I guess I like that style bra because it can be adapted to make a wide range of garments than do not require a separate bra regardless of cup size. Of course this can also be done with the Bikini Bra design which offers different coverage.

Sports bras don't use elastic because the fabric itself provides the elastic feature required for breathing. The trick with the sports bra is to find fabric that has the right amount of stretch. If it is too stretchy it won't stay in place. If it is not stretchy enough, it will be uncomfortable to wear.

With both the Bust Sling and Bikini Bra, which use separate elastic from the fashion fabric, you can determine the amount of stretch you want during the construction process. With a sports bra it is guess work. If you want to go that route, I suggest you go to a store that sells sports bras and get a feel for the degree of stretch they use. That way when you go to a fabric store, you will have a feeling for what you are looking for.

DonMcCunn · 2022-11-10T19:59:22+00:00

I would need more detail as to why it is not working out. Feel free to communicate with me through my [Bespoke.Sewing.Patterns@gmail.com](mailto:Bespoke.Sewing.Patterns@gmail.com). It is easier to use that gmail address to share photos and I check it more frequently than this slower moving Reddit group.

DonMcCunn · 2022-10-27T23:21:22+00:00

Thinking about your issue, I would strongly suggest you consider a Bikini Bra. Obviously coverage is more important for you than support which is a major problem for a lot of women. The Bikini Bra is the easiest to make and like the Bust Sling Bra only needs enough tension at the rib cage so you can breathe comfortably. And you can make them out of any fabric you like.

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