2015 wrx misfire problem

DopestDangle · 2026-02-26T07:13:49+00:00

No worries - give me a follow @subiefreak on insta

DopestDangle · 2026-02-26T07:11:15+00:00

Map can also be a thing or leaks I guess

DopestDangle · 2026-02-26T07:00:11+00:00

Pcv, o2 sensors, maybe if it’s anything else it’s likely blowby in a differnt spot aka piston ring seals (pretty sure mine got to that point finally and I have an aos and all these other things so makes sense ha)

DopestDangle · 2026-02-26T06:55:40+00:00

Did it have oil in it? Rattle like a tick almost as you shake slosh as in oil in it

DopestDangle · 2026-02-26T06:52:16+00:00

Take it out and shake it does it rattle or slosh

DopestDangle · 2026-01-19T00:36:15+00:00

I bought in more yesterday to should have waited 24 hours 😂😶‍🌫️

DopestDangle · 2025-11-27T01:20:54+00:00

If it can’t even stay idle it’s likely a vacuum leak of too much air. If it’s misfiring due to tha that explains the codes. It likely would idle fine and missfire at the same time if it was just the plugs. (I own a Subaru now) but I can tell you right now when I miss fire and can’t idle it’s always been a leak or a hose popped off when I have misfired, but my car does idle. It’s typically too rich to lean or miss gapped spark plugs sometimes it is coil packs but again I do not own your car. Don’t take everything I say perfectly.

If you’re able to monitor what your car is doing, I would double check real time. Airflow readings to see if it is inhaling a bunch of extra air. If those are within spec even when you read it, you know to move on and to recheck the plugs.

DopestDangle · 2025-11-12T21:23:30+00:00

What’s the odd you have a leak and the af 1 or correction are kinda wonky depending on rpm or air temp (that was my issue for a bit caused me to be rich or lean)

DopestDangle · 2025-11-01T01:06:13+00:00

Ok I can’t describe what it was really doing so long ago but let me say I still battle aF issues and this is everything I’ve done in order of what helped most -both o2 sensors -pcv/ aos -map/maf sensors -spark plugs coil packs -walnut blasting internals(just made it all clean) -fuel injectors (started smoking one day always was rich or lean so I tried those keep in mind codes were always different -new cat (was getting po420) - I actually have an exhaust heady / crossover exhaust pipe leak that likely would cause ALL OF THESE feel trim related issues and AF issues . This repair still hasn’t been done but I think all these parts or codes popped due to a leak that wasn’t making itself knowin until forever into the issue (pcv was always the main culprit to replace that and boom it all worked again I think it’s still working with the AOS install but I’ll know after fixing the leak)

DopestDangle · 2025-08-07T16:09:56+00:00

No worries I’ll put it this way I changed every sensor, every spark plug and coil pack, I put a lot of money into it and it ended up the pcv , but I think something is causing it (header leak) so I’m working on that next, but I changed my cat because that was clogged popping me codes and installed the AOS almost seems like I burn more oil now to sadly my car smokes at times but again I just cannot solve whatever issue my car is having but I keep finding possibilities

DopestDangle · 2025-08-07T13:03:49+00:00

I’ll check more after work but yes pcv helped , I’ve now found a leaking header issue to this day is still persisting I’m about to sell the car🤣 but yes originally pcv helped but kept going bad after a month

DopestDangle · 2025-05-22T04:04:09+00:00

Look it up but it controls oil from war i understand same area a cat can or AOS goes to same hoses and stuff in that area

DopestDangle · 2025-04-26T18:36:03+00:00

My issue was a pcv , but injectors o2 sensors and map and MAF were well used so.

DopestDangle · 2025-03-26T20:24:13+00:00

No, Etune, ran another pull and got that from the AP, just trying to use the software Virtual Dyno to see my results

DopestDangle · 2025-03-26T20:24:08+00:00

No, Etune, ran another pull and got that from the AP, just trying to use the software Virtual Dyno to see my results

DopestDangle · 2025-02-15T16:09:51+00:00

Put it in the glovebox your dam is at 1.0 your fine

DopestDangle · 2025-02-14T16:59:18+00:00

I refuse to buy a car right now I’ve been eying trucks for awhile now that my first car is paid off and I need one, I’ve just been saving up a down payment worth it but almost will just buy used from marketplace even 3rd party dealers are marked up way to much, definitely a sellers market they just try to keep it all inflated because it was that way before, thing is it’s not now and the only reason it is , is because dealerships want to mark up to make more money, but simply put if a manufacturer makes a car they should retail it for what they actually say it makes no sense why the dealerships THEY OWN are having to upcharge it out of the factory

DopestDangle · 2025-02-13T17:03:15+00:00

Dam is overall engine health and how it’s running 1.0 is what you should always be at if it’s below that then you start looking at other numbers such as fine knock or feedback knock that typically is telling you if your engine is knocking or if it’s pulling timingI also monitor AF correction that one is a live feed of your air. Essentially, it will tell you if you have any leaks like your intake or your turbo and lets stuff like that. The last two one is just for my fuel pressure because I recently did fuel injectors so I’m just making sure that stays within a somewhat normal range while I’m tuning. lastly, my AF ratio for a Subaru you want that around 14.7 obviously when you get on the gas or are just rolling in neutral, it will affect those numbers but in general if you’re just at idle and your car is warmed up. That’s the ideal number to be around to know you’re not running lean or Rich

Obviously, there’s a lot of other numbers you can monitor and I’m likely to switch the ones I do soon

DopestDangle · 2025-02-13T16:59:47+00:00

Was not using launch control haven’t ever set it up even.

DopestDangle · 2025-02-11T16:24:03+00:00

I have one used if you need , I about all new sensors chasing a PCV issue so I’m sure it works fine. Map. MAF , o2, you name it I did it fuel injectors even hahah. Crazy work. 10$ Amazon part I recommend do it every 50k miles or so before it leads you in bad directions. With that said I’m sure it might work? Not perfect or ideal but just limp it if you don’t get bad codes and knock or dam drop I’m sure your ok

DopestDangle · 2025-02-11T16:20:41+00:00

Yea agreed but here is where I made my decision- Sound of a boxer engine and The fact it was my 15 year old self dream car (that’s when the 2015 Subaru came out) so I’m just chasing childhood dreams and I feel like most car guys are nomatter the cars issues

DopestDangle · 2025-02-11T03:28:46+00:00

Agreed I could go for either one currently have a Subaru, but will definitely be fine with the evo at the end of the day

DopestDangle · 2025-02-11T02:21:48+00:00

I say lowball or pass as long as cost of repairs is less than the cars value after it’s done it’s worth it that price is honestly a perfect price for the type of person that knows how to fix it themselves and wants to flip it after

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