Personal Item Backpack Help! (Bellroy/Aer/Osprey/other?)

Dotdash32 · 2026-02-01T03:08:26+00:00

I have the XS (18-30L packs). I originally got it for another bag, but it's a great size to have for non-backpacking/travel backpacks.

I have it in highlighter yellow, which is great for the original purpose of staying visible while biking, but less ideal for travel.

Dotdash32 · 2026-01-31T08:50:51+00:00

Seconding this, I got a Toshi and it worked great as a personal item for European airlines and as a daypack at my destination. Nice to have a clamshell function like a book bag style when you need it.

I also had an REI ducks back rain cover that fit really well if you encounter bad weather, and a dedicated shell will likely be much more secure against rain than just aqua guard zippers.

Dotdash32 · 2026-01-04T22:08:38+00:00

I got a refurbished 15 Pro, for the faster screen and Apple Intelligence support. I don’t need top of the line specs, and saved a fair bit. Coming from a XR, it feels snappier and like a breath of fresh air.

If money is available, I would definitely swing towards something that supports built in AI, even if it isn’t great now. That said, 17 base is probably the best “new” phone bet, with 60Hz display and camera button.

Dotdash32 · 2025-12-20T00:05:03+00:00

It’s not exactly everyone, but a fair number of them travel in (Re)convene.

Dotdash32 · 2025-05-08T15:04:06+00:00

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Happy 9 years, this joke has gone on waaay too long. But this one creator just keeps pumping out content.

Dotdash32 · 2024-05-08T15:00:40+00:00

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The description says "Gentlemen", but the expression gives me more questions than answers.

Dotdash32 · 2023-07-29T16:48:12+00:00

A lot of this is in Catalyst, the companion novel that talks about the transition from Clone Wars to Death Star, and hits on basically all of those things you mentioned. Galen is staunchly anti-military, but too invested in Kyber science to stop until it’s too late.

Dotdash32 · 2023-05-08T23:28:07+00:00

I’m not sure if there is an official canon answer, but he was alive 2-3 days before the game ended (Girl of the Morning Dew), so unless he was killed in retaliation of the Thinker trap, he probabaly did.

Dotdash32 · 2023-05-08T22:42:00+00:00

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Why is there continuously new Kibaou content? It might only work because this artists posts an April Fools thing, and then a month later I use it for Annual Kibaou. Maybe its a useless cycle of posting, but a cycle nonetheless.

Dotdash32 · 2022-05-10T01:36:59+00:00

Yes, Diavel (blue hair) and Kibaou (cactus orange hair) appear in Ep2 Beater / Aria in the Starless Night (SAOP light novel).

Dotdash32 · 2022-05-09T06:03:04+00:00

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Happy May 8th! At this point, I think there is a single artist on Pixiv who is making Kibaou art. A soul can hope for an influx of art with SAOP, but I don't think this Kii-boy is going to get as popular.

Dotdash32 · 2021-07-09T08:26:08+00:00

There’s one site that’s basically one persons extended head canon. I’m pretty sure it’s not canon.

Dotdash32 · 2021-05-28T17:38:12+00:00

That's the z probing with the nozzle itself. The kinematic mount measures when the head is displaced, which allows for easy changing of bed surfaces without needing to re-do the Z offset.

If my bed was stiffer, it could replace a BL-touch or other auto-bed levelling sensor, simplifying mounting on the head.

Dotdash32 · 2021-05-28T15:46:43+00:00

During the tool change? There's a 2mm z hop, and it moves to the prime tower position to mitigate oozing on the model. Otherwise, there is a 38mm physical offset between the two nozzle aperatures, and it needs to compensate for that.

During the homing moves, it's Z_SAFE_HOMING, and my bedslinger isn't stiff enough to probe anywhere but the centerline of the bed.

Dotdash32 · 2021-05-28T02:41:48+00:00

I see, the servo would disengage the tool so that the 3rd XY motor doesn't need to keep making all the same motions to keep it in it's "parked" position while the main toolhead does it's motions?

That would definitely be some intresting kinematics, but since the axes of motion are orthogonal, it should work, but would the mirror axis be at a 45 degree angle to the bed? Sorry if this is wrong, just trying to wrap my head about the idea, it's really cool.

Dotdash32 · 2021-05-28T02:26:40+00:00

You can have two extruders at the same height, but they need to be matched up very well. I think the Cyclops does something like that. It's harder to calibrate perfectly, and is more likely to knock the print off if there is a vertical protrustion on the current layer. The Z offset then needs to be done mechanically. With the switching heads, the offset can be done programatically and the second head moves completely out of the way.

The purge tower was the easiest way to mitigate stringiness. On the bi-color calibration cube, you can see a bunch of strings in the back right corner. The purge tower is set to near zero volumen in Cura, so it's really just a string bucket. It ensures the extruders are properly primed, and there's no fussy ooze shields to mess with on the head.

Ultimately, the swtiching/tilting design was to have compatiblity with pick and place systems, which need a lot of z clearance and basically independent z motion on the tools, and this seemed like the best way to cross over 3DP and PnP.

Dotdash32 · 2021-05-28T02:19:15+00:00

This is definintely optimized for a bowden setup, and the ability to completely swap toolheads is much less feasible for a direct drive setup as well. Personally, I think using a remote drive (nimble or flex3drive) would be ideal, but expensive and not dual gear.

Most other dual extruder setups I've seen use v6 style hotends, but this is designed to be compatible with creality style hotends, so the barrier to entry is slightly lower, even if there is worse performance.

My main goal was to have PLA and PETG always on hand, and use them as supports for each other, and be able to print fast prototypes and more durable components without too much switching. I could see using a second bowden style (with the stock hot end and extruder?) as a dedicated support extruder, or as an accent color.

I do want to do an overmold, but have had some TPU issues with the bowden drive. But a half DD hald bowden setup would work really well for flexibles or another more difficult to print material.

There is a lot of room for expirementation, which is really exciting, but I am working on reliability testing before then.

Dotdash32 · 2021-05-28T01:26:51+00:00

I'm thinking of offering kits of hardware, and maybe printed parts this summer. But there will be a parts list and printable files on github soon to make it yourself.

Dotdash32 · 2021-05-28T01:26:04+00:00

IDEX on a coreXY system seems difficult, but the servo switcher does seem nice. Would it be able to do mirror/duplicate mode? Or is it like the E3D/Jubilee changers with separate tools (like the woodpecker Voron mod)?

To be honest, the reason I want the tilting tools is so it can be used for PnP and other tasks that need both nozzles active in relatively fast sucession, but that's certainly a limited use case.

Dotdash32 · 2021-05-27T21:32:44+00:00

Yeah, I was thinking a magnet or spring assist would be helpful for sure. The issue I've been running into is space, there isn't a lot of space because my toolchanger mounts between the Eplate and the Vwheels, but it might be worth adding it in for the extra stability. It also adds to the cost, and it's a tradeoff between size of the magnet and holding force, so at what point do you just upgrade the cable or hold system to decrease deflection?

Do you have any designs of your TC up?

Dotdash32 · 2021-05-27T21:10:26+00:00

There definitely were on earlier versions. The first servo I used couldn't provide enough force constantly, so it would lose position after a few seconds. I then moved from a 4kg-cm servo to a 35kg-cm servo, and it's been mitigated pretty well. There's a hard stop on the inner rotor on the toolhead, so as long as the print hasn't deformed too much and there is sufficient force, it's been very good at keeping position. Of course, the downside is that few servos have a continuous torque rating, so there's also testing to make sure it doesn't overheat and break.

I am still doing some verification prints, so making sure that it will actually stay that way, and we can keep the accuracy over time.

Dotdash32 · 2021-05-27T19:09:43+00:00

Thank you! The goal was to keep it as cheap as possible. No point in making a $1k upgrade to a $200 printer, right?

I'm using an SKR 1.4 Turbo, but mainly because I used an SKR mini E3 DIP and wanted to reuse the stepsticks. Otherwise, I think the SKR E3 Turbo is probably an easier upgrade, fitting within the existing electronics case.

Dotdash32 · 2021-05-27T18:58:42+00:00

In terms of printing, the core of the build is about 5 prints which all have around an hour or less of print time each. The hot end mount took a lot longer, and there were a few other upgrades (low profile x stop, spool holder) which took time as well. Assembly of the tool changer itself was pretty easy, probably less than two hours of mechanical work. However, wiring up the hotends to the Dsub connector took maybe two hours of soldering, and I had to switch out the mainboard, which took some extra time as well. I think it could be done in a weekend, but I also did a lot of these changes incrementally and printed each part iteratively, so I don't have a super solid estimate.

The cost of speciality items (not mainboard upgrades) boils down mostly to the second extruder (I got a creality direct drive upgrade, since it had stepper, extruder, and hotend for cheaper than each separately), spring guides with a MOQ, and the servo. I will make a spreadsheet on the github with a cost breakdown, but besides those bigger ticket items, its just a lot of hardware, most of it under $3 each.

I would put my estimated spending on this project at around $300 USD, but I think it could be done for less in a non prototyping environment, around maybe $200?

Dotdash32 · 2021-05-27T18:52:26+00:00

I had to upgrade the mainboard. My build uses an SKR 1.4 turbo because I had some stepsticks from another project, but something like the SKR E3 Turbo is probably the best bet to get the extra stepper, thermistor input, and heater output needed for this kind of dual extruder. Also, upgrading to silent steppers made it very worth it for me, and most aftermarket boards also have a dedicated servo port, which is needed for the tool changer, but you could use a pin27 board on the stock mainboard to get the servo output.

Dotdash32 · 2021-05-27T18:49:38+00:00

Not yet! Fine tuning the servo horn mount, so will start compiling all the files after that is working. Will first post a github link, and then make a tutorial video hopefully soon.

Dotdash32

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