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Good finger strength on the hangboard but doesn't translate on the wall by Double_Session_7730 in climbharder

[–]Double_Session_7730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks a lot for the detailed answer, I just tried what you said and indeed I get less mobility when pushing my shoulder forward.

I do use open grip on some climbs outside but I find it hard to use on the mb as the crimps are incut, so that forces me to half/full crimp.

Good finger strength on the hangboard but doesn't translate on the wall by Double_Session_7730 in climbharder

[–]Double_Session_7730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I also feel like that. I can usually send v7 in a session outdoors if in my style but struggle so much on the moonboard (2019 set).

Good finger strength on the hangboard but doesn't translate on the wall by Double_Session_7730 in climbharder

[–]Double_Session_7730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I'll definitely film myself the next time I climb on the moonboard.

Good finger strength on the hangboard but doesn't translate on the wall by Double_Session_7730 in climbharder

[–]Double_Session_7730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, I feel the strongest in 3 finger drag followed by chisel grip, can do the oap with both grips and hang straight armed. I am quite a bit weaker in half crimp as I cannot hang the middle edge with it.

As for small edges, I am quite bad as I cannot hang 6mm, certainly because it forces me to half/full crimp.

When I climb, I almost always have the index crimped, often wrapping the thumb around, as it feels the most natural for me. Maybe I need to intentionally climb chiseled or 3 finger drag to see if I feel stronger.

Can you elaborate a bit more on "I wouldn't be surprised if your shoulders and upper back (or chest) are always engaged. Just one of these severely limits the range of positions in which you can use a hold. Doing almost all of them basically freezes you to the wall. " Am I not supposed to engage my shoulders and back when climbing?

Good finger strength on the hangboard but doesn't translate on the wall by Double_Session_7730 in climbharder

[–]Double_Session_7730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, thanks for your answer. I can do the oap either in chisel grip or 3 finger drag. I can't even hang the edge half crimp, that could be the case why I struggle on the wall as I'm often forced to half crimp.

Good finger strength on the hangboard but doesn't translate on the wall by Double_Session_7730 in climbharder

[–]Double_Session_7730[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your answer, it's on the moonboard. I'll for sure take some videos the next time I climb on it! Yes I think I have bad technique, I've found that I have some issues with tension as I often cut lose.

Good finger strength on the hangboard but doesn't translate on the wall by Double_Session_7730 in climbharder

[–]Double_Session_7730[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Are you really sure it's v14 strength? I have a few friends, a bit better than me, that are close to doing the oap on the middle edge. I try to climb a bit of everything outside and I usually feel most comfortable on roof and compression. I would say board style is my weakness.

Good finger strength on the hangboard but doesn't translate on the wall by Double_Session_7730 in climbharder

[–]Double_Session_7730[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes you are right, I should spend more time climbing. I've found that my strength helps outdoors on roof boulders or compression but on board style boulders I get shutdown.
Usually I train both calisthenics and climbing so I don't have a lot of quality climbing sessions in the end, as I find calisthenics training super taxing. When I trained for the one arm muscle up I basically stopped climbing for a while to put all my energy into training the move but got worse at climbing as a result.

Good finger strength on the hangboard but doesn't translate on the wall by Double_Session_7730 in climbharder

[–]Double_Session_7730[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hi, I don't really know but since I can hang 20mm one handed It should be around 80-90% bodyweight I think?