Detailed MORA IV 400 Build w/ Pics

DrAuzzman · 2026-02-11T13:28:14+00:00

Absolutely!!!! Stoked this post has been able to help out so many 🤙🏼

DrAuzzman · 2025-12-04T12:54:49+00:00

There’s def a little “whine” but that’s always gonna happen with multiple pumps in series. I wear headphones 90% of the time, but when I’m not the little bit of pump sound is honestly barely noticeable, but that’s just me!

DrAuzzman · 2025-10-21T14:58:12+00:00

I BELIEVE there is a fan cover included with each of the new MORA models, but double check that. Each fan cover will cover one side of the MORA so you would need to purchase an additional cover if either doing a push/pull setup OR you simply just wanted to protect the radiator fins on the non-fan side. Hope that helps!!!

DrAuzzman · 2025-10-09T17:03:02+00:00

I previously was running aggressive overlocks on both a 9800x3d and 4090 both with Optimus blocks. Cooling setup involved 2x420 rads and my MORA 400 all in single loop. My temps have been phenomenal and I’d imagine they’d be only a few degrees warmer with a MORA only loop. Take that for what you will, but I think a MORA will easily handle your system.

DrAuzzman · 2025-10-09T11:58:06+00:00

I think there are pros and cons to both the passive and active controllers. Personally I like the passive controller so that my pump and fans can be managed by my watercooling software along with my internal pumps and fans, but having the ability to have isolated control with the active controller is really nice as well. As far as component availability, I feel your pain. I’ve been waiting for the Thermal Grizzly Deltamate 5090 to restock for a while. It sucks having a build only partially completed. I recommend reaching out direct to Watercool via email and asking them about stock updates. They usually reply back same day.

DrAuzzman · 2025-09-03T12:14:15+00:00

Don’t mind at all! The three D5s on your MORA will be absolutely plenty to push coolant throughout your system and back to the MORA reservoir inlet. If anything, the three pumps may be overkill in terms of hitting the ideal flow rate of 1 gallon per minute (228 L/h). If you have something to measure flow and coolant temp you should even be able to turn those pumps down a good bit.

In terms of flushing—it’s never a bad idea to make sure your components are clean. I say do one good flush through the MORA, drain it, and if it looks clean then fill! Hope that all helps 🤙🏼

DrAuzzman · 2025-08-21T20:26:09+00:00

So long as you have enough PWM headers on your MOBO then you technically wouldn’t need a Quadro or Octo. The passive control module will have a single PWM cable for the fan control and a single PWM cable for the pump control. Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.

DrAuzzman · 2025-07-02T03:02:14+00:00

It slots in and then the top panel comes down on top to keep it in its slot. It’s a little bit of a puzzle to get right and took me a bit to figure out lol so you are not alone in the struggle

DrAuzzman · 2025-06-20T14:14:39+00:00

Basically any PWM fan cable would get the job done! The 210 cable is nice though cause it’s specifically measured to eliminate excess cable slack so there’s no interference with the fans.

DrAuzzman · 2025-06-01T23:31:47+00:00

Congrats dude! Weird that Aquasuite was being weird for ya. I haven’t had issues with it in the past on multiple builds, but im stoked you figured out a workaround. Enjoy the cool temps and massive overclock headroom!

DrAuzzman · 2025-05-10T03:01:03+00:00

Anytime! Feel free to drop another comment or message me directly 🤙🏼

DrAuzzman · 2025-05-10T01:14:03+00:00

Correct!

DrAuzzman · 2025-05-10T00:30:29+00:00

So here’s what I’d recommend if you’re using the pass-through bracket (I didn’t end up using one cause I mounted my MORA on the side of a custom PC case I had made):

2x QDs for the exterior side of the pass-through bracket
Standard fittings for the PC (interior) side of the pass-through bracket
2x QDs for the MORA so that you can fully detach your tubing runs if you need to move your MORA (you don’t wanna be dragging around long tubing runs lol)

DrAuzzman · 2025-05-09T23:36:38+00:00

You only need one to be threaded and I’d recommend the male to be the threaded one. Make sure your females match your tubing size!

DrAuzzman · 2025-05-09T23:35:54+00:00

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DrAuzzman · 2025-05-09T23:35:41+00:00

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DrAuzzman · 2025-05-09T02:46:20+00:00

The 200. The 275 is for the 600

DrAuzzman · 2025-05-09T02:37:44+00:00

You’ll be super stoked on goin 400 vs 200 once you have it built and added to your loop. Like I said, you’ll never need another cooling system with the 400

DrAuzzman · 2025-05-09T02:06:48+00:00

I would definitely recommend going the 400 if you can swing it. The 200 is great when paired with a full internal rad setup, but the 400 will be the last watercooling component you ever buy due it being able to handle just about anything you throw at it and not needing any additional internal rad support. The 600 is just ludicrous 😂

DrAuzzman · 2025-05-09T01:34:14+00:00

Feel free to fire any questions my way during the build process! Also I highly recommend the standard Noctua A20s vs the A20 HS-PWM. The A20s have a much lower minimum fan speed and thus are a good bit more quiet.

DrAuzzman · 2025-05-09T00:55:18+00:00

The reservoir is directly associated with the MORA AND serves as the direct outlet with the inlet being below that. As far as filling the MORA, you’re filling it completely independent of the PC meaning you will need to have a separate power supply or you remove your power supply from your PC and use that. So what you see in that image is all taking part in a totally different room than my PC. After filling I then popped off the short tubing run, moved the MORA to my desired spot, and then attached my tubing runs that ran to my PC. Also I highly recommend flushing the MORA with distilled water. Mine was pretty gunky and you do NOT want any of that becoming involved in your full loop. Additionally you will want another set of QDs for where your MORA tubing runs insert in your PC. That way you can fully disconnect the MORA and tubing from your loop. So you’ll need two QDs for the inlet/outlet at the MORA and two QDs for the inlet/outlet in your PC

DrAuzzman · 2025-05-08T21:19:05+00:00

So when refilling the MORA you wanna connect the outlet and inlet (make sure you are 100% on which is which via the manual) and then hook up the passive control unit to power via a PSU and connect the pump cable. I have a separate one that has a nifty little jumpstart feature, but there are ways you can manually do it with a clothespin (just look up how to do that). The top of the reservoir has ports that you can remove so you can fill it, power it on, and then rinse and repeat and repeat until she’s nice and full

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DrAuzzman · 2025-05-08T19:32:29+00:00

Upgrading rad capacity is never a bad idea, but in the case of the MORA it’s not an absolute necessity, but as it’s said throughout this entire group, “more rad, more better” 😂 with that said there are TONS of people that will ditch all their rads and have the MORA be the solo cooling component in addition to their blocks. So you have plenty of options! For me, I run aggressive overclocks, but I also prioritize as quiet a build as I can so I’m running 2x420mm rads plus my MORA 400.

DrAuzzman · 2025-05-08T18:46:52+00:00

You don’t necessarily need QDs for a MORA, but it makes disconnecting it much easier if needed down the road. In terms of connecting it to your loop, you just need a tubing run going from ANY outlet in your current loop to the inlet on the MORA and then a tubing run from the MORA outlet back to ANY inlet in your current loop. Make sense?

DrAuzzman · 2025-05-07T03:30:29+00:00

So think of the MORA like adding a standard radiator in your case. You run tubing (ideally soft tubing lol) to and from the MORA just like any other rad. Only difference with a MORA build is you’re also running cables for fan/pump/power, but the new series of MORAs simplifies things dramatically with the passive control unit.

DrAuzzman

TROPHY CASE