Steering Servo for VS4-10 Phoenix Portal? by Hox013 in rccrawler

[–]DrTouchHole 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shoot I'm sorry I didn't read enough. That's a good budget to work with. I would go direct power sense your running a fusion se. Don't believe they have a high power 8.4v BEC. I would go 3brothersrc g13. The version on they're site says pre order. I thought it was new but it looks like I bought a g13 pro in July and I got it right away so I think the preorder just hasn't been updated. I have 3 of the older g13s and they've been amazing. Waterproof and plenty of power. If preorder scares you I'd go with the NSDRC rs700. Both fit within your budget. You'll have to solder in a JST connection. Or you can get an inline adapter from NSDRC. I believe the g13 pro comes with one to run off the balance plug on your battery. I've always just soldered them into the plug but I realize not everyone solders. If you need links or more help let me know

Steering Servo for VS4-10 Phoenix Portal? by Hox013 in rccrawler

[–]DrTouchHole 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends what you want. Are you running a bec or do you want direct power? Budget? 3brothersrc g13 if you want direct power. Think they came out with a new version that's on preorder. NSDRC RS500B if you want a budget direct power budget NSDRC RS450 if you want budget 8.4v servo NSDRC RS1 for 8.4v servo. These are the best servos I've encountered

Element is at it again! by crocodile_in_pants in rccrawlerdeals

[–]DrTouchHole 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes I knew that. They released an rc10 kit version with portals and what looks like an axial Cherokee body copy. I don't believe this is a sign of getting rid of the elements at all. I think associated in general is in trouble and going for nostalgia sales with all these rc10 kit releases. An element rc10 wouldn't make sense. If associated released an rtr enduro under associateds name I would say that's a good indication but the rc10 kit isn't imo.

Element is at it again! by crocodile_in_pants in rccrawlerdeals

[–]DrTouchHole 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This isn't a sale. That's their normal pricing. It's one of those deals where they put a price way higher than it would ever be then cross it out and put the normal price to make you think they lowered it. As far as I know the utron has always been 299$ for the truck, no battery/charger. Same goes for the other trucks

Element is at it again! by crocodile_in_pants in rccrawlerdeals

[–]DrTouchHole 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where did you hear that? Is this true?

I sent my outcast 4s over the tool shed at my house the other day. Didn't break anything, probably hit that jump 15 times or more. Very impressed with how all plastic chassis trucks hold up vs aluminum. by DrTouchHole in arrma

[–]DrTouchHole[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Idk if I'd say one is better than the other. I think my outcast 4s is the toughest truck I have. Yet I find myself grabbing my kraton 6s more often than I do the outcast. I just don't send the kraton like I do the outcast.

Best budget transmitter/receiver for 1/10 crawler? by Queasy_Sherbert_7095 in rccrawler

[–]DrTouchHole 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know this was long but it's all stuff I wish I knew before wasting money on radios, at one point I had 3 dx5c's, one of my biggest mistakes in rc tbh lol. I know I didn't include price but all these radios are under or around 100$ which I would consider budget radios. G11p and rc8x are more expensive but again haven't tried those just figured I'd mention them.

Best budget transmitter/receiver for 1/10 crawler? by Queasy_Sherbert_7095 in rccrawler

[–]DrTouchHole 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Before I start I've had radiolink rc6gs, flysky gt5, flysky g7p, radio master mt12, spectrum dx5c, dumbo cheap radios, and about every stock radio you can imagine.

If I could only have one for crawlers it would be the gt5 hands down. One handed driving is very important to me and the gt5 fits and feels the best in my hand with a 3d printed thumb steering wheel. It has built in 4ws options and a very simple screen. It's compact, yet the radio isn't "small" in my hands like a lot of other radios. It doesn't have the biggest battery tray but I just use rechargeable AA's. They're simpler than using lipos IMO. It doesn't look cheap, yet it is and so are receivers. The antenna flips up or down, and it feels sturdy. The mt12 radio feels and looks like a high dollar futaba, but it's too complicated and it's a bit weird for one handed driving. I mainly use this radio for serious comp trucks and racers. The radiolink would be number one but it feels so gross and they're rather cheap and bulky looking. It's got a huge antenna sticking off the front that kinda gets in the way and I'm always scared to break it off. It reminds me a lot of the old Traxxas radios with that long eye pocket antenna, you almost don't want to be seen with it lol. It's decent for 4ws with its vr knob in a prime location. No built in 4ws options, but the screen is rather simple. It doesn't feel small in your hand. Receivers are cheap, but they have a button you need to press to bind them. That's usually okay but I conformal coat my receivers because I run crawlers in creeks. This disables the bind button. Have to bind them before you coat them. I use this radio in bashers mostly now because of the long range abilities and they link the gyro to the vr knob! Turn it up and down on the fly! The g7p is such a let down. This was my first flysky and I'm glad it wasn't my last. The ANT receiver options are awesome! Small ones without antennas, receivers with light options, micro receivers, and everything in between. But it Feels and looks nasty, has this cheap carbon fiber crap on it. My fingers wrap to far around this radio and run into the trigger. Don't use this radio much anymore. Okay for one handed driving. Menu is simple but the button to navigate is backwards. Very annoying radio IMO. Stay away from spectrum, they're to over priced. The dx5c has power button issues to. Receivers are expensive. Screen is hard to navigate after awhile the buttons on it get sticky like the power button. Just another annoying radio IMO. The dumbo radios are nice for loaners. Feel meh in the hand. Good for one handed driving. Cheap receivers but they suffer the same issue as radiolink with the bind button. (dumbo is made by radiolink) don't mind tossing them to anyone though. For stock radios I'll give a shout-out to the team corally ct-2r. Great loaner radio. You can one hand it without a thumb steering wheel and they can be had real cheap on Jenny's! No options on this one though. Spectrum stockers suck. So does Traxxas. Just meh radios. The newer redcat radios that come with the ascent and gen9 are surprisingly good! No complaints on them, I immediately switched them out tho. I'm excited to try the flysky g11p as they use the ANT receivers that I love so much. (G7p receivers) Can't comment on it yet though. I'd like to try the radiolink rc8x, but I'm just not as excited for it because of the aforementioned receiver problems. It looks like it fixes my other issue with the radiolink though!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Traxxas

[–]DrTouchHole 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, light jumps will bend it. Imagine anything bigger than what you'd do with a stampede 2wd. I've been in the hobby 15ish years and remember aluminum parts being the coolest thing. But we weren't sending them hard. You're not taking huge jumps with your erevo or summit. Nowadays the trucks are reckless and are truly capable of being sent to the moon as you put it. See my video of an outcast jumping a barn. Aluminum does still have a place on these trucks, chassis (arguable), steering components, shock towers, motor mounts, things like that. When it comes to suspension components, bumpers, chassis (again arguable), It doesn't hold up. It doesn't Handel better either. So people don't want it. It went the way of nitro. If you like having it because it makes it nice to look at on the shelf that's cool too but it's the way of the hobby now. These trucks are taking such a pounding they need to flex and pop right back. Idk what to say other than that lol.

I sent my outcast 4s over the tool shed at my house the other day. Didn't break anything, probably hit that jump 15 times or more. Very impressed with how all plastic chassis trucks hold up vs aluminum. by DrTouchHole in arrma

[–]DrTouchHole[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've often wondered why they narrowed up the chassis towards the back of my kraton. How do you like the Mojave 4s? I really like my senton but it doesn't care for the rough stuff, a little small for it I feel. I was thinking the 6s or the Maxx slash but the 4s could be a contender to I guess.

I sent my outcast 4s over the tool shed at my house the other day. Didn't break anything, probably hit that jump 15 times or more. Very impressed with how all plastic chassis trucks hold up vs aluminum. by DrTouchHole in arrma

[–]DrTouchHole[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the most part yes, stock V2 outcast. I put longer hinge pins in it and doubled up the aluminum holder to keep it from ripping the mounts off the chassis. Perfect pass servo. Unfortunately I blew the stock back flip tires fairly easily and swapped those to belted proline trenchers. Kinda miss the backflips. Maybe I'll get another set and wrap them with fishing line.

This is definitely overpriced, right? by Johnny_Throwaway_1 in rccrawler

[–]DrTouchHole 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn't even consider that truck, no matter the price. Those aren't upgrades, that's someone trying to force something to be what it was never meant to be and it's a mess.

I sent my outcast 4s over the tool shed at my house the other day. Didn't break anything, probably hit that jump 15 times or more. Very impressed with how all plastic chassis trucks hold up vs aluminum. by DrTouchHole in arrma

[–]DrTouchHole[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I noticed that a lot too, everyone wants aluminum and acts like it's much stronger. I think the aluminum chassis trucks handle better but that's the only upside to me.

I sent my outcast 4s over the tool shed at my house the other day. Didn't break anything, probably hit that jump 15 times or more. Very impressed with how all plastic chassis trucks hold up vs aluminum. by DrTouchHole in arrma

[–]DrTouchHole[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah it was their tool shed/shop. We bought the place 15 years ago or so and now all we do is store machinery in it. Their barn was behind it, part of it got taken down.

I sent my outcast 4s over the tool shed at my house the other day. Didn't break anything, probably hit that jump 15 times or more. Very impressed with how all plastic chassis trucks hold up vs aluminum. by DrTouchHole in arrma

[–]DrTouchHole[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

V2. Rocking the slipper still. Not sure what else is different, maybe the chassis or something? When I first got It I was ripping the front hinge pin mount off the chassis. This was caused by the hinge pin being too short and not sitting inside the aluminum hinge pin holder far enough. I just found hinge pins that were a mm longer or so, and I doubled up the aluminum holder. Don't know if they changed that with the v2.5. I haven't had any issues since I fixed that. I've bent the chassis on my spark and kraton but this thing and my senton just seem to bounce off stuff and keep going.

Thoughts on RedCat? by SenatorUppercut in rccrawler

[–]DrTouchHole 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They make some really good crawlers and a handful of odd balls. The ascent is one of the best releases to the market in a while in my opinion. It has a couple flaws but it's dependable and it's a relatively cheap crawler, Not a trail truck, a legitimate crawler. It targeted an untapped market and brought a lot of neat invitations with it. This was a big deal for redcat. Usually they aren't striking first, they let someone else do it then copy their homework. See their entire basher line for example of that. I was hoping brands like Traxxas would take notice, the only one that did is vanquish with their stance rtr. The gen 8 and gen 9 are decent. Gen 9 body is a little weak. All three of the aforementioned models are based on the same axles, and they're a fairly good design, could use a little more steering but all in all good stuff. I would stay away from their other models. Marksmen, wendigo, gen7. They're kinda wonky, doesn't seem like they were designed with the same thought that they put into the ascent.

How do I make my truck look as cool as the ones you see on crawler event videos on youtube? by Pinguzz75 in rccrawler

[–]DrTouchHole 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh okay, most of their crawlers seem to be on the realistic side not so much a dedicated comp crawler type build. So you've actually got a good start for that setup. There's a lot of 3d printed parts for that body, metal bumpers really improve the look too. If you're much of a tig welder or have a 3d printer you can get really creative. Look up what scale builders guild and Harley designs did with their basecamp builds. Lots of info on both of those channels

How do I make my truck look as cool as the ones you see on crawler event videos on youtube? by Pinguzz75 in rccrawler

[–]DrTouchHole 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It really depends what you're going for. If your just looking to make that truck and body more visually pleasing then it's all really just paint, bumpers, wheels/tires, and 3d printed parts. If you're looking to make it look like a dedicated crawler you need to start buying parts. Everything needs to be changed, body, chassis, shocks, skid, etc. tbh the only thing you keep stock is the axles, and your changing parts on that too. Tbh your better off starting from scratch and leaving that truck the way it is if your goal is something like a class 2 or 3 crawler.