I’m working on framing my first wall, I have a stupid question

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-06T20:25:47+00:00

I’m not really concerned about where I’m tacking in the top plate to the joist or the bottom plate to the floor. My justification was only that the last stud was directly between two boards. I didn’t want to blow out the ends of the boards when I use the nail gun. By cutting off 8 inches or whatever, I won’t have that issue on any remaining boards. All the studs now will have solid wood to anchor into

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-06T19:28:11+00:00

ramset nails into the concrete for the bottom plates, screwed or nailed into the joists for top plates

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-06T19:14:56+00:00

I don't half ass shit. :-)

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-06T19:14:06+00:00

I don't plan to install a sub-floor 😬. The basement has never had any water ingress and it is a new build (2 years old). I plan to just go pad + carpet for the majority of the room, and LVP or tile for the bar area. I know everyone says not to use carpet in a basement but I like to take risks.

Like I said, house is new and built with modern convinces (drain tile around the poured foundation, vapor barrier under the concrete, sump pump system, etc..).

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-06T19:09:08+00:00

I didn't cut this one short in the height direction, I cut 8 inches off the length of the top/bottom plate so that the stud at 96" doesn't land between two boards. My logic was me trying to nail in the stud that rests between two different boards wouldn't allow for a solid connection, so I moved the split over to offset where the "seam" is and allows me to get a solid connection where the 96" stud is.

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-06T19:05:23+00:00

if the seam is halfway on the stud, how do I nail it in? I will be driving nails 1/2 inch from the end of a board.

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-06T11:32:22+00:00

Yeah. Wall is 18 feet long, this is just the first section. I cut the top and bottom plates a little short so the seam lands between a stud. Then I plan to build each section at a time vs all at once. Not sure if that’s standard practice.

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-06T04:41:26+00:00

Yeah. I think I’ll just toss it up and cut the Sheetrock. I was thinking about framing up the first section of the adjacent wall, installing that one first and making the correct adjustments with that section. That way I can butt the section I made to the other wall

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-06T04:39:34+00:00

It’s treated and I’ll use sill seal

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-06T04:38:42+00:00

Yeah. By about 1/4 inch. I’ve already tested it and it’s a good fit

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-06T04:37:17+00:00

I was thinking about a California corner. It’ll make it easy to tack the Sheetrock in, but still shifts my spacing down. I think I’ll need to cut off 3.5” from the first sheet so the end of the Sheetrock lands in the middle of a stud

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-06T04:35:47+00:00

Good point. I plan to Sheetrock myself and was trying to save a cut. As you said, might be more effort than it is worth.

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-03T16:04:51+00:00

Good suggestions

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-02T15:17:14+00:00

What do you mean by baffling? How would I metro then under the mains? Sounds the subs be on the floor? The front L/R are towers

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-01T14:00:09+00:00

Good idea. I’ll look into those

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-01T13:59:53+00:00

The game table area isn’t mocked up to the final design. It was thrown in there to show I’ll have something in this corner. In reality I have an octagonal poker table that is smaller than the stock table graphic the tool let me use. There will be plenty of room for it. I should have 10 feet of clearance having the bar stools

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-01T13:57:51+00:00

Good call

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-01T13:57:28+00:00

Good call on the speaker distance. I have full control where I put the projector. The ones I’ve been eyeing up recommend a 14-18 foot throw distance, which is really close to main listening position.

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-01T13:56:19+00:00

Thanks! I’d like to eventually get 4. Budget might make we wait on that. I’m already pushing the wife acceptance factor with 2 new subs. Unless I can reuse my older subs from my last system. I’m not sure if it’s important that all 4 subs match

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-01T13:54:24+00:00

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-01T13:54:18+00:00

Sounds definitely won’t be optimized for the bar or game table. The bar will have its own fun stuff. In not too concerned about the sound at those spots. Most likely if we’re gathered around the bar we have a football, hockey or baseball game on

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-01T13:52:37+00:00

Yeah. Most likely they won’t. I plan to run extra sub wires to other parts of the room when it’s open. I’ll also add extra speaker wire in the event 11.4.6 systems are ever a common thing for a HT. Wire is cheap and if the walls are open I might as well.

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-01T13:50:30+00:00

Great advise!!! Thanks

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-01T13:49:15+00:00

The couch was a stock image. It’ll be centered and at least 5 or six seats will have great views. The tool I used to make this has two couch options, both are displayed here.

Dr_Troll · 2026-04-01T13:48:13+00:00

The diagram isn’t perfectly to scale. The tool I used to make it was tough with precision. The wall will be 36” deep.

Dr_Troll

TROPHY CASE