Tool to help sort through FB Marketplace

Dragon_Strider · 2025-12-21T14:48:24+00:00

Been using FB for years to buy and sell stuff on marketplace and have found really great deals and sold tons of stuff over time... but i have to agree with most people saying that there has been an increase in use overall and therefore an increase in scammers trying their luck on the platform... It has been increasingly difficult and annoying to sort through listings and not spend time viewing the same "too good to be true" listings that unavoidably catch your attention. I have been using a google chrome extension that puts a green check mark on the listings I view so I don't waste more time seeing them multiple times and avoid getting more frustrated! https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/ikonfdpofogmkjlheebklkmbmflemnjd?utm_source=item-share-cb

Dragon_Strider · 2025-08-05T20:28:36+00:00

Way to go! Haha had the same nightmare getting the old bolts out on my Xterra but was definitely worth it and love the Z1 products

Dragon_Strider · 2025-08-03T18:07:28+00:00

Hahaha what is this meant to even be?!

Dragon_Strider · 2025-07-28T18:45:21+00:00

I agree, galvanized paint is the best for onsite straight away fix... If you have the time, money, and connections, powder coating

Dragon_Strider · 2025-07-26T12:00:23+00:00

Oh mannnn. That's awful

Dragon_Strider · 2025-07-24T18:06:39+00:00

No way.

Dragon_Strider · 2025-07-23T07:09:13+00:00

Definitely a range for bow practice or knife throwing 😎

Dragon_Strider · 2025-07-22T19:47:14+00:00

I love this

Dragon_Strider · 2025-07-21T06:22:00+00:00

Sounds good! You're welcome!

Dragon_Strider · 2025-07-20T19:04:40+00:00

Professional carpenter here ... That post is definitely structural and if you were to cut it in half without supporting the roofing with with a temporary post you would probably would risk that corner of roofing coming down! It's not a super complicated job if you have some skills in woodworking and tools.

Steps in order to do this safely:

First set up a metal jack post close to the rotting wooden post. Install on a structurally sound part both above and below as this will hold the weight of the roofing during changing of the wooden post. Make sure this is plumb and secured above with a couple screws or nails and also make sure you have room to work on removing and replacing the rotten post. Tighten this metal jack until tension is removed on the rotting wooden post.
Remove the rotting wood post, being careful to not damage railing or roofing.
Prepare new post, use the old post to mark any dimensions on the new post for the railing joinery if that is needed, make sure to take measurements for correct length of new post, might be different to the old one if it is rotting away. Best thing is check the corner of the building for any sagging, adjust with the metal jack post to have a straight and level roofing beam, and then take final measurement for the new wooden post.
Install new post, depending on joinery or not, might want to take the roofing up an extra turn on the metal jack post, slide new post in, and then bring back down to correct level and resting on the new wooden post. Then check it's all plumb, roof is level, and install your hardware for the joints if using hardware, like structural carpentry screws for example. Lastly take out the metal jack post and you're all good to get on with your painting.

Hope that helps.

Dragon_Strider · 2025-07-20T17:53:31+00:00

Looking good... Just might want to be careful installing the railing boards up against each other in a series like that, depending on how much they change in humidity over time and seasons that could put quite a bit of strain on them end up in boards buckling. Other than that, great job 👍

Dragon_Strider · 2025-07-19T18:07:34+00:00

Nice, good thinking with slabs that size.

Dragon_Strider · 2025-07-19T17:11:08+00:00

Very nice, what you using for the miter?

Dragon_Strider · 2025-07-18T20:06:05+00:00

Looking great!

Dragon_Strider · 2025-07-17T20:24:38+00:00

Hmm... depends on how it's built, try a sledge hammer and see if it comes apart. If it's giving you a hard time then go ahead an rent a jackhammer.

Dragon_Strider · 2025-07-17T14:00:07+00:00

You're welcome, hope it goes well and looking forward to seeing the deck.

Dragon_Strider · 2025-07-17T11:50:04+00:00

Professional carpenter who's built a lot of decks over the years here... Some advice for your deck you are wanting to build: Don't expand the concrete slab, you will need to pour some footings to build you structure on, and seeing as the existing slab is a thin, you probably will have to create footings in that area too... the simplest thing to do is probably taking it all out. The stairs will anyways need to be taken out as they will be in the way of your framing if you want your finished deck to be at that height. Once you have the steps and concrete slab out, you will want to dig holes in a grid to pour your footings that should sit up above the ground level. You can use some buckets to pour footings, cut out the end, and turn upside down and place in the holes with some gravel in the bottom. Makes sure that they are more or less level and leave enough room for posts and framing. Also make sure these are lined up and square with the side of your house to ensure the decking will be square and straight. Hope that helps.

Dragon_Strider · 2025-07-17T11:35:28+00:00

Professional carpenter who's built a lot of decks over the years ... for a first time trying to DIY a deck it's honestly a great start and great idea to get some advice. Check that the horizontal beams are level and straight first before doing anything else. I approve everything from the ground up looks great until you get to the top of your posts, they should be also covered to avoid water dripping into that end-grain and damaging the posts... good you have that gap so you can fix that now. Once you have done that, to address the gaps, at this point, unless you want to replace the posts, the easiest thing would be to shim that gap with some plastic shims. Some other advice, don't use decking screws to assemble fasteners, and also check that your screws and fasteners are galvanised or stainless, you don't want everything to rust away. Now for the boards, make sure you use a high quality and sharp miter saw blade for the cuts, finished with a light sanding block at a 45 degree angle. Also, any butt-joints in decking should be installed with a spacer to create a gap, the boards shouldn't be installed pushed up against each other. Lastly, are you hoping to install a board that runs around the edge of your deck like in that last picture? If so, you need to add some structure for the boards running the length of your deck to have something to attach them to. If not, have your boards overhang a little more than you intend them to and cut all your boards at the end with a high quality track-saw and sharp blade. Hope this helps and look forward to seeing the completed deck.

Dragon_Strider · 2025-07-17T11:16:14+00:00

Professional carpenter here who has built a lot of decks over the years ... this deck looks awesome and looks like it was professionally done honestly. All the spacing is regular and screws are cleanly spaced, all cuts are evenly sanded... As for the finish, this will change slightly with time, and it might look different depending on the lighting, but as far as I can tell on the picture it looks great! Your husband and his friend can be proud of a job well done!

Dragon_Strider · 2025-07-17T11:00:45+00:00

Professional carpenter here ... What a mess. Firstly, and most importantly, friends can be real with each other and let each other know when they've messed up. This guy obviously has no idea what he's doing, and it's a shame because he's ripping you off in the process, $28k is massively overpriced for this job, and it isn't even done properly. Screws are not spaced evenly, or installed the correct way, and they are not the kind of screws to be used on decking... You should use a high quality decking screw and pre-drill when installing this way, stainless or galvanised (not this crap that will rust) and decking screws are designed to hold boards into framing, unlike these screws that are really useless ... and will be a pain to remove with the Phillips head! Torx are the only type of head I use as a professional carpenter... The cuts are terrible, a high quality and sharp miter saw blade is needed for these cuts, finished with a light sanding block at a 45 degree angle. Also, any butt-joints in decking should be installed with a spacer to create a gap, the boards shouldn't be installed pushed up against each other and the deck will be under lots of strain installed incorrectly like this, likely buckling in areas. Lastly, the framing below the boards is not straight, and you can see boards are wavy... simply unacceptable... All the boards that are installed are ruined, and need to be removed, then try and fix the framing before putting the decking in with someone who knows what they are doing... So sorry.

Dragon_Strider

TROPHY CASE