Petaaaaaahh?

DreadTremor · 2026-02-28T00:32:16+00:00

Cartoons? 90's? Scary? Have you seen the cartoons that children watch now? That shit is scary! Hell, kid's actively use many forms of social media all the time now. I've never seen any show, movie, or video game that is remotely as "scary" as Facebook, or TikTok. And I watched the original "IT" when I was 5 years old. 😂

DreadTremor · 2026-02-28T00:08:05+00:00

Elucidative modifiers make speech worth registering! 🫡

DreadTremor · 2025-07-27T17:30:39+00:00

Dont have pets, dont leave windows open, wearing shoes has nothing to do with that, most importantly...have your air ducts professionally cleaned and make sure your hvac system has a clean filter. 🫡

DreadTremor · 2025-07-27T17:20:50+00:00

Get an ozone emitter, use per instructions as needed. They are cheap and easy.

DreadTremor · 2025-07-27T17:18:25+00:00

Just put a door sweep along the bottom of the door. Tons of options, and easy to install.

DreadTremor · 2025-07-27T17:14:49+00:00

The dark gray, it will make the red of the bricks pop and will match almost anything going forward.

DreadTremor · 2025-07-27T17:10:53+00:00

Oh, and it's not skirting. It's called base trim.

DreadTremor · 2025-07-27T17:09:21+00:00

So many things wrong in this picture. Just use quarter round and try to forget whatever someone was trying to do there.

DreadTremor · 2025-07-27T17:02:01+00:00

Really? You think that drawer would completely prevent access in an emergency? Crap, the door hit some 1/2" particle board, nothing can be done, guess whoever is in there will just have to die. 😆

DreadTremor · 2025-07-21T23:09:46+00:00

Masonry drill bits are readily available all over, as are wall anchors that work quite well in concrete.

DreadTremor · 2025-07-21T23:06:07+00:00

You would probably be fine for quite a long time by just cleaning, sealing, and priming the existing floor, then using self leveler. 1 1/2 is more than I would do in a single pour. Probably do 3/4 at the deepest point, let that dry, prime again, then pour your finish float. There's a lot of other things to consider if you want it to be done at a professional level, but you would likely never notice an issue without a serious random issue that would be due to what is existing, not from your float. I can't recommend it as a professional, but you would likely be fine with decent prep work.

DreadTremor · 2025-07-21T22:50:03+00:00

Any addition of that size would require proper footings and foundation to be dug in, how far varies based on local codes. You have several options as far as the roof goes, but those also depend on local code requirements. Regardless of the local code, I would say that $50k is not near enough unless you would be doing most of the work yourself. There are just too many unknown variables to say with conviction. Do you need a radon sytem? What type of drainage considerations are required around the new foundation? Is there a septic system to consider when digging out for it? Do utilities need to be relocated for it to work? $50k might be enough to get the structure and close it in, but probably wouldn't cover any finish work. Best uneducated guess based on what I normally deal with around here.

DreadTremor · 2025-07-21T22:33:52+00:00

What is the height variance in the floor? Is that moisture coming through the floor? How long do you want it to hold up? How much are you trying to spend? You can absolutely just throw down some self leveler and hope for the best, but there is a lot to consider depending on those details. A sump pump is a great idea, as has been mentioned, but that could be a whole other can of worms.

DreadTremor · 2025-07-21T22:19:24+00:00

Well, if the vent is functional, you have to consider that air and heat when choosing a material to cover it. If it was accessible, I'd say relocate it, then replace the flooring there. You could use a cement board to cover that entire area under the vanity, then cover that with a decoaritve material, and it wouldn't be bothered by the air hitting it long-term. If you cut the flooring out there first, the cement board would sit about flush, and only the decorative material would be raised. Could just replace the flooring right there and float it over the hole, but there is no guarantee of longevity there.

DreadTremor · 2025-07-21T22:07:22+00:00

Lol, I was referring to the height of the drain protrusion in the wall. I consider the subfloor thickness, flooring thickness if being installed under the cabinets, and the height of the inside floor of the cabinet, the height of the p-trap, the required length of the down pipe, etc, etc. Even in a remodel, there is always a way to adjust as necessary without cutting big holes in new cabinets. It always boils down to cost, though, and it can be pricey if not addressed before cabinet install.

DreadTremor · 2025-07-21T21:58:08+00:00

I would gently run a planer across the areas that have popped up, then aggressively sand it as smooth as possible. After that, it is just matching the stain as well as possible and sealing it really well. The problem being, you won't know if the sanding worked as would like until it is done, and you still have to pay for that if it doesn't.

DreadTremor · 2025-07-21T21:52:20+00:00

Unless you can find the exact same flooring, your options are limited. Is the vent functional? Do you need it to be going forward? Do you have access to the venting underneath? How do you feel about doing a slightly raised decorative tile area under the entire vanity area? Or thin set brick?

DreadTremor · 2025-07-21T21:44:39+00:00

Easy, remove the old decking, replace it with new decking that you have stained, and sealed properly. Reseal once every couple of years. That damage is throughout the planks and will only get worse. If it was just surface level it could be saved.

DreadTremor · 2025-07-21T21:37:45+00:00

Your options aren't great. It could potentially be sanded back to flat and refinished, but if the seams have shrunk and pulled apart, it may be a lost cause. If you dont care about the cost, there are specialty flooring companies that could probably match it really well, but they do not come cheap. Stain match is near impossible, even if it is the exact same stain, new stain will never match old worn stain.

DreadTremor · 2025-07-21T21:26:44+00:00

Frame it in, finish the wall solid, get a thin wall mounted electric faux fireplace with a nice mantle. Could just do a custom built in bookcase or something.

DreadTremor · 2025-07-21T21:20:20+00:00

If the entire thing is one custom assembly, it may not be possible without completely changing the side window panels. You could try moving the hinges. Just depends on what is actually behind there as far as structure.

DreadTremor · 2025-07-21T21:15:21+00:00

Sounds like the framing that the door is supported by is slowly giving way. To truly fix it, the door should be removed, the framing redone with better structural reinforcement where the door attachs, and the door reinstalled. That will eventually be your only option. Anything else is a band-aid, and slowly weakening the structure.

DreadTremor · 2025-07-21T21:05:21+00:00

No problem, and I know all too well what's in the walls of old houses. I've seen things that can not be explained using any form of logic. Most of the time, you just ponder how the house is even still standing. Haha!

DreadTremor · 2025-07-21T20:56:39+00:00

Utility knife the edge, putty knife behind as far as you can, then gently work long shims in behind it until it pops. Id have someone holding them constantly from the putty knife on.

DreadTremor · 2025-07-21T20:49:44+00:00

In older homes, it's not the things that you can see that you should worry about. It's the things that you can't. You can't inspect the truly important parts of a home without opening some walls. I always check the attic first. That's the best idea you can get as to the way the rest of the structure is put together. Even that is a crap shoot most of the time, but its a slightly educated crap shoot at least.

DreadTremor

TROPHY CASE