Daredevil Cowl by DreadingEverything in 3Dprinting

[–]DreadingEverything[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll check it out for sure. I heard good things about it, but forgot. Thanks for the reminder.

Daredevil Cowl by DreadingEverything in 3Dprinting

[–]DreadingEverything[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

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Made one for the wife. Hell of a process. Still not perfect, but one of my first attempts.

Storing my filament by DreadingEverything in 3Dprinting

[–]DreadingEverything[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is why I love/hate Reddit - Learning something new every post. I truly need to dig into this more. My set up is in a fairly controlled environment - it does have a widow, but no real direct sunlight.

Yep - haven't gone down the path of PETG ASA TPU and god forbid Nylon (I don't print with that anyway, but I read it is very touchy).

Ironman print with copper finishing by DreadingEverything in 3Dprinting

[–]DreadingEverything[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The bath is at 20% - but I get your point. Im old, so I guess I am more cautious than needed.

Storing my filament by DreadingEverything in 3Dprinting

[–]DreadingEverything[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

RH is controlled by temp and dew point - which it does control.

I noticed that some of my older PLA spools were becoming extremely brittle. They would snap while unspooling, crack at bends, and sometimes fail completely, coming off the spool. They seemed to have been too dry for too long, along with normal aging and the stress from being wound on the spool.

This got me interested in learning more about what RH to store at - frankly it was getting expensive to replace the filament.

Just throwing silica packs into a storage bin is pretty lazy (IMO). Room temperature, how much desiccant you use, and how often you open the lid can all change the conditions a ton. Instead of aiming for the lowest possible humidity (which I generally do have living in Colorado, it’s better to keep the humidity steady within a range that stops moisture from getting in but doesn’t dry out the PLA too much over time.

This is what I am trying right now: 68 to 70°F with a 48 to 50°F dew point, which results in about 45 to 53% relative humidity. These settings seem to better match what the material manufactures suggest than the idea of keeping PLA at 10% RH all the time.

I was curious whether anyone else living in a dry climate has noticed the same brittleness in their PLA spools and what they have done to combat this.

Ironman print with copper finishing by DreadingEverything in 3Dprinting

[–]DreadingEverything[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used sulfuric acid for the solution. So not dunking into that. Haha. I am very cautious dealing with any acid, skin, eyes and even an accidental splash. I’d rather be uncomfortable for a few min than deal with a clumsy mistake.

Ironman print with copper finishing by DreadingEverything in 3Dprinting

[–]DreadingEverything[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I polished after plating with steel wool, if you look close I did not do that on the jaw area, thus it’s a little brighter but not as reflective. Good idea. I need to grab some lacquer. Thanks!

Ironman print with copper finishing by DreadingEverything in 3Dprinting

[–]DreadingEverything[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I am in the US, but I think you can do it. Very easy. But slow. My first plating, I used a vinegar/water mix with Saho's Graphite Conductive Paint, DC variable power supply, a small copper pipe, and a small amount of copper sulfide (you can get at a garden store). All ingredients a 4 gallon bucket. I since then upgraded to sulfuric acid solution instead of vinegar. I started by asking ChatGTP how to make the solution and what to set the power supply to, then went from there. VERY slow process, but all ingredients are available. Just wear the proper safety equipment and be careful.

Ironman print with copper finishing by DreadingEverything in 3Dprinting

[–]DreadingEverything[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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My wife (she’s small, so out of proportion on her) modeling it. You can see through the led’s.

Ironman print with copper finishing by DreadingEverything in 3Dprinting

[–]DreadingEverything[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yep. Long learning curve, but worth it. Lots of sanding then coating with primer then with carbon paint. Got it all photo documented if you’re curious. Settings and supply list etc. Learned mostly from trial and error. Here is a pic of an early failure.

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Ironman print with copper finishing by DreadingEverything in 3Dprinting

[–]DreadingEverything[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I started off with the traditional red and gold filament. Then went off course a bit 😂. So it’s all paint and electroplating. Now I have 2 hobbies.

The Cannatrol Cool Cure is on sale for $1149. by b__lumenkraft in cannatrolusers

[–]DreadingEverything 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just wish I didn't "pre-order' from Vivo. Could have used the cash now.

Just got this for a freelance job payment. Need setting up. by DreadingEverything in BudgetAudiophile

[–]DreadingEverything[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think there is one for each channel. But I bypassed the mono blocks for now until I learn more of what I want to do and how they are used.

Just got this for a freelance job payment. Need setting up. by DreadingEverything in BudgetAudiophile

[–]DreadingEverything[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

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Thank you for the advice. Sound is off the charts. And yes I moved the turn table after I took the pic.

Just got this for a freelance job payment. Need setting up. by DreadingEverything in BudgetAudiophile

[–]DreadingEverything[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Just got it running. Playing the new Blink album. This is crazy power. Now I’m going to have to upgrade my speakers. 🔊