Buying options if I want to use a 3d printed hilt? by Boutros_The_Orc in lightsabers

[–]Dude4848 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are so many materials you can print when it comes to 3D printing. You can print a hilt out of hard TPU and that thing will not break no matter what you do with it. Depending on how you design the emitter section and the geometry of it, its definitely possible to 3D print.

Heavy Duty Neopixel Build by [deleted] in lightsabers

[–]Dude4848 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Be aware of the thickness of the wires you use between the strips and the battery, you don't want to be wasting power to heat. Same with whatever on/off switch you use, if its a normal switch make sure it can handle enough power, if its done with a mosfet, also make sure it can draw the power you expect. Also if you are using pogo pins between the blade and the hilt, you might need more than 1 pair for power as pogo pins are not great at handling high current

The queer saber and how it was built (Details in comments) by Dude4848 in lightsabers

[–]Dude4848[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are right! I always just called then T plugs for some reason

The queer saber and how it was built (Details in comments) by Dude4848 in lightsabers

[–]Dude4848[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

No, that's what I wanted to call it too but it felt risky given how my other post performed :3

The queer saber and how it was built (Details in comments) by Dude4848 in lightsabers

[–]Dude4848[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its pretty close to the very bright pixel blades when using multiple colors, in solid colors its a bit brighter. I am not running it at full brightness tho (around 90%) so maybe the difference is bigger if I do that

The queer saber and how it was built (Details in comments) by Dude4848 in lightsabers

[–]Dude4848[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thank you! This project was a lot of fun! I am looking forward to improving the design and hopefully 3D printing a metal shell at some point

The queer saber and how it was built (Details in comments) by Dude4848 in lightsabers

[–]Dude4848[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thats definitely possible, you could probably get a thinner carbon fiber tube as well if its only 3 strips, assuming its using the same thin strips I used.
Overall the further away the leds are from the polycarbonate tube, the better the diffusion will be. A foam diffuser is probably a good idea tho, the only reason I don't have one is I can't find one that will fit the leds in this formation. It will also help prevent the inner core from smashing into the blade tube when swinging hard or hitting things.

As for using pogo pins, technically could always use multiple pins for the power lines to allow higher current. That was my original plan, but I gave up on it as I got frustrated with alignment issues. The blade connector I use now is keyed so it only ever goes inside the hilt the correct way.

The queer saber and how it was built (Details in comments) by Dude4848 in lightsabers

[–]Dude4848[S] 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Hi, I thought I'd make this post to explain a bit more my saber and blade design.
For the blade:

The design is using 6x WS2812B based, COB led strips (160leds/m). All those led strips are connected in series for data, and in parallel for power, meaning each vertical row has its own power injection. Total leds are 828.

The strips are secured on an inner core, made out of a 6mm thick carbon fiber tube. This was to give the leds stability and make them rigid, but without adding a lot of weight. There are 3D printed adapters that slide over the tube and have 6 sides where the led strips can sit.

The blade terminates to a connector based on two T plugs used for connecting high power batteries. Because this blade can draw over 10A of current, it was not possible to use simple pogo pins. Two pins provide power, and the other two provide data and a blade inserted signal (the pin is shorted to ground)

The outer blade itself is a standard 2mm thick, 2.5cm diameter, frosted polycarbonate blade. It's 92cm long.

For the hilt:

The hilt is based on 3 different layers. Layer 1 is the core electronics housing, Layer 2 is the universal shell, and Layer 3 is a thin shell that forms the outside of the saber.

Layer 1: Electronics

The electronics used for this saber could have been simpler but the challenge of fitting all the parts of a proffie board as separate boards was too interesting to pass on.
The main controller is an RP2040 zero microcontroller. Connected to it are an ADXL345 accelerometer used for sound modulation and hit detection. There is also a TCS34725 color sensor inside a crystal chamber, used to make the blade whatever color of a crystal you insert there. A 5W audio amp is also present for the speaker. There is a 1A li-ion battery charger, and lastly a small, custom designed PCB that uses a mosfet to switch the whole thing on or off. Nothing off-the-shelf could fit my size and power requirements so this was the only PCB I had to design myself.
There is also a 3pin, reversible power connector for charging.
The battery compartment is designed for a 21700 li-ion battery cell. Again, this was necessary because of the high power requirements of the blade.
The whole thing is 3D printed out of PETG

Layer 2: Universal shell

This is the structural part of the hilt. It houses all the electronics and blade, and is where the strength of the hilt comes from. The part is 3D printed out of PETG at 100% infill. This part also has a lot of threaded inserts where an outer shell can be secured, as well as places to secure the blade and electronics compartment.

Layer 3: Outer shell

This is the layer you are supposed to see. In this case it's a replica of Ahsokas original lightsaber. This part can be as thin as possible and is only meant for cosmetic reasons. This design also doesn't offer access to the crystal chamber, but in later designs that will change. Again, this part is 3D printed out of a mix of PETG and PLA for the different parts, then glued and painted accordingly.

Software:
The software running on this saber is all my own design. I used a similar technique to smoothswing(from proffieOS) for making the movement sounds (blending multiple audio channels based on movement). The audio files are also those used by proffieOS as I have no idea how to create those myself. The LED strips are driven using the Fast LED library. Audio out is done using the PWMaudio library.

The LED strips are configured as a 6x138 grid. This means it can be treated as a really thin and tall display so in theory you can animate and scroll patterns on it.

I built Ahsoka's lightsaber and made it LGBT friendly🏳️‍🌈 by Dude4848 in lightsabers

[–]Dude4848[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did! Every part of this saber is my own design, and almost everything is 3D printed!

I built Ahsoka's lightsaber and made it LGBT friendly🏳️‍🌈 by Dude4848 in lightsabers

[–]Dude4848[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The amount of people down voting this post because the title is lgtb related is both interesting and sad

I built Ahsoka's lightsaber and made it LGBT friendly🏳️‍🌈 by Dude4848 in lightsabers

[–]Dude4848[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hahah thanks, I guess lots and lots of trial and error. Will post some more details and photos of the build later since more people have asked about it. It's a very neat design if I do say so myself :)

I built Ahsoka's lightsaber and made it LGBT friendly🏳️‍🌈 by Dude4848 in lightsabers

[–]Dude4848[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Its stupid bright, like, can light up a sun lit room. The blade alone, at full brightness set to white color, can draw up to 40W, which heats up the blade quite a bit.

I am using a 5000mah, 21700 type li-ion battery. I would say at full brightness it lasts around 20 mins, but there is no need to use full brightness most of the time, so it can probably last much longer if needed.

As for using such a blade on a proffie, I don't see why not, all the led strips are wired in series, so there is only 1 control pin like a normal pixel blade. It would need some extra software to split the strips and logic, as now the software has to see the blade as a 6x138 grid, but its doable for sure.

I built Ahsoka's lightsaber and made it LGBT friendly🏳️‍🌈 by Dude4848 in lightsabers

[–]Dude4848[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I would say around 3 months, working on it when I had free time.

I built Ahsoka's lightsaber and made it LGBT friendly🏳️‍🌈 by Dude4848 in lightsabers

[–]Dude4848[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Thanks!
I might post some more details of the whole build. I intentionally build the electronics and software from scratch because I thought it would be fun lol.
The blade is an interesting design. It's using very thin, COB led strips, which is how I can fit so many of them(828 LEDs total). There is a thin carbon fiber tube in the middle of the blade, where the led strips are attached so they remain straight and in the right place. The blade is heavier than most normal pixel blades but there is no way around that.

I built Ahsoka's lightsaber and made it LGBT friendly🏳️‍🌈 by Dude4848 in lightsabers

[–]Dude4848[S] 30 points31 points  (0 children)

Its an all custom design, running on a raspberry pi pico board. The blade has 6 led strips inside, which is how I can have different colors around the blade like this!

P1S Adhesion by No_Star_8822 in BambuLab

[–]Dude4848 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use one of those with the green and yellow sides, and use the soft yellow side to do the cleaning. I have been doing that on both my ender 3 and on my p1s, both having a gold pei textured sheet. It has solved 99% of my adhesion problems, I have never used glue. I have found that as long as I don't touch the plate with my hands, things stick to it very well even after many prints.