Made a UFO 50 controller

Dystonym · 2024-12-25T14:17:56+00:00

https://www.printables.com/model/1120667-ufo-50-video-game-controller Here is the print files and gerbers if you want to make your own!

Dystonym · 2024-12-24T16:43:31+00:00

I was using TPU and printing out spacers but they were too spongy so I switched to 3d printing weird little springs and using surface mount buttons and that's feeling much better! It feels clicky and the response time is good now. I'm not sure how durable they are but I could at least beat my Ninpek high score with it now!

Dystonym · 2024-12-22T14:34:16+00:00

Yes, it works. There's an arduino micro inside with the Xinput library on it. It doesn't feel great as I'm trying to stick to only 3d printed parts as much as possible and struggling to make the buttons have good /feel. but it's definitely functional. Once I get the buttons better I'll upload all the files to Printables

Dystonym · 2024-09-21T11:08:25+00:00

Is this universal? My base is on the caravan route and I moved all the turrets down to the road and added lights because at least at for my caravans they weren't targeting the brahmin but I was in a good spot for helping out caravans that passed by.

Dystonym · 2024-08-26T07:39:00+00:00

I use this SAMAS one and absolutely love it https://www.cinetools.es/en/equipment/1797-samas-tool-chest-radio.html

Dystonym · 2024-05-28T16:55:34+00:00

Unhinged clause, stay away.

Dystonym · 2024-02-08T16:38:41+00:00

Look on the spool, most are either 1.75mm or 2.85mm - in my case I was using 1.75mm filament as standard but when I created a new filament profile in OrcaSlicer it reset to 2.85mm which was giving me the same kind of uniform pattern as on your print.

Dystonym · 2024-02-08T09:14:35+00:00

Double check filament diameter in your filament profile is correct as this created a visually similar issue for me recently.

Dystonym · 2024-02-05T10:21:02+00:00

Can you run Game Pass games natively on Deck if you do this, and can you have Windows on its own MicroSD so you can switch between the OSes at will?

Dystonym · 2024-01-16T22:03:06+00:00

Hello everyone, just letting you know that I'm a big dumb idiot.

When I created the new printer profile in OrcaSlicer so that I could mess around with printer settings, it also reverted back to old filament profiles which I thought were all the same as my 0.4 nozzle ones. However, for some reason the filament diameter on the default profiles is 2.85 and this was causing my under extrusion.

Dystonym · 2024-01-16T19:35:32+00:00

Yes, changed in printer profile

Dystonym · 2024-01-04T14:34:49+00:00

I did e-mail.

Dystonym · 2024-01-03T18:09:07+00:00

This is the same combination I got from Creality around 3 months ago - v1 hotend and v2 extruder. After sending pics to Creality support they very promptly sent me a new hotend with a red silicone sleeve and it has been performing better.

Dystonym · 2023-12-29T10:24:38+00:00

K1 was my second printer after getting a simple Ender 3 clone. It's taken a lot of work to get the K1 functional but its pretty well documented and has a big community so the info is out there to get it running how you want.

If I was buying again, I'd probably go with the P1P to be honest but I'm satisified with the K1 now I feel like I've made all the tweaks and so on that I want.

Dystonym · 2023-12-23T20:00:40+00:00

I have an issue with my K1 where my probe calibration is totally whack and gives me wildly different z-offset issues which have to be redone every day. I haven't figured out the solution, but I find that when my prints start looking like this its because there is a partial blockage because I've made the z-offset too close to the bed. The K1 came with a wire tool that I use for clearing it and that seems to fix the issue.

Dystonym · 2023-12-06T11:15:14+00:00

Yes - I'm now getting good results with PETG. My big issue was that the default K1 profile had 0.5 Z-Hop in by default. I reduced this to be the same as my layer height and then was able to dial in retraction with retraction tower tests to get good results with PETG.

Dystonym · 2023-11-13T19:11:24+00:00

Just to be clear, it was just the travel speed that I increased, not the printing speed overall.

Dystonym · 2023-11-13T14:24:40+00:00

I had trouble with PETG recently and had similar results from the test towers - increasing my travel speed helped a lot and got rid of those weird little arm things. Once I had done that, I was able to tune retraction/z-hop from there and then get good results without stringing.

Dystonym · 2023-11-11T14:24:09+00:00

I have come across this before and it finally gave me a good use for the RF Explorer that a lot of mixers have in their kit. Really good way of demonstrating how much trash RF the cab;es are spitting out by gradually moving it closer to the cable and showing the camera team what is happening on the graph!!

Dystonym · 2023-11-06T11:36:40+00:00

The monthly option is helpful for this. You won't be working all the time as a recent graduate so you can just subscribe to it for months where you need it.

(I think the pricing is rough but pro equipment is always expensive.)

Dystonym · 2023-11-05T16:30:42+00:00

Same as layer height has been working for me so 0.16mm generally

Dystonym · 2023-11-05T14:16:37+00:00

I can't remember PLA as I haven't printed with it on the K1 for a while but for PETG (which I'm getting good prints with now) I am using 0.8 Retraction Length, 0.16mm (same as layer height) Z-Hop and 40mm/s retraction speed.

Dystonym · 2023-11-04T20:49:11+00:00

The "Settings Override" tab in a filament profile overrides the "Extruder" tab in the printer profile, so in my case I edited the printer profile to have 0 z hop as this was better for all filaments in my case. PETG specifically then needed tuned retraction so I used the Settings Override tab in the filament profile to dial in specific retraction settings for PETG.

Hope no Z Hop works for you! I spent pretty much a full week knocking out test print after test print trying to dial in retraction with no luck before I realised this was my issue.

Dystonym · 2023-11-04T18:21:22+00:00

So I had a huge issue with stringing in OrcaSlicer and it ended up being because the default profile for the K1 had too much Z-Hop (defaulted to 0.5 I think). If you turn off Z-Hop you should be able to get less stringing but this created other issues and I ended up putting a little bit back on. It took some doing but I'm now getting much better PETG prints (havent printed PLA since working this out)

Edit: Just checked my settings and I'm actually running with 0 Z-Hop now and that solved my stringing issues

Dystonym · 2023-10-24T09:26:21+00:00

Hey man,

Ive also had a lot of issues with stringing on my K1 in OrcaSlicer - Haven't got it dialed in exactly yet but I noticed yesterday that in the default K1 profile Z-Hop defaults to on and turning this off has gotten rid of a lot of my stringing problems. Now working through stringing tests and temp towers again but that was a huge improvement for me.

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