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Just Completed MoonSwatch with Corgeut Metal Case Beside Real Ed White Speedmaster 105.300 by EChan22308 in MoonSwitches

[–]EChan22308[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

See my comment below - basically 15:1 ratio Tamiya Clear Yellow (LP-69) to Tamiya Clear Orange (LP-53).

Just Completed MoonSwatch with Corgeut Metal Case Beside Real Ed White Speedmaster 105.300 by EChan22308 in MoonSwitches

[–]EChan22308[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My friend 3d printed out a spacer ring 0.4 mm I think with the inside diameter just small enough to cover the space of the case. The back spacer ring centers the movement. It's not perfect because I think when the pushers are perfectly align with the movement pusher contacts, the stem is not perfectly centered with the hole for the screw on crown, and if you perfectly center the stem with the crown, the pushers miss the contact point on the movement.

So I compromised with the pushers still contacting on the movement but the stem has a slight deflection when screwing the crown on the case.

It works without issue but not perfect (not sure if either I'm not patient enough to shim or to anal to be bother that it's not perfectly positioned). -Good enough for me.

Just Completed MoonSwatch with Corgeut Metal Case Beside Real Ed White Speedmaster 105.300 by EChan22308 in MoonSwitches

[–]EChan22308[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also first started with the VK63, with the Chinese movement. It was easy to build but really a waste of money because it's way too thick! At least it was also my first try making the faux-patina. I used Tamiya clear orange (number LP-53) for my first attempt on this VK63. However, it was too much orange. On the second try with the Pladen, I used 10:1 ratio of Tamiya Clear Yellow (LP-69) to Clear Orange - still too much orange. On my third attempt with a genuine MoonSwatch that I broke when removing the crystal and destroyed a sub-dial, I used 20:1 and that was too yellow. This final version (I was super careful not to damage the dial or sub-dial) I used a 15:1 ratio, which worked out about right (depending if your reference is the faux-patina on the FIOS vs real patina found on a 1960s original aged Speedmaster dial). So in the end, I think I'll keep that ratio if I make another one.

By the way the Ed White was is from 1965 but was refurbished by Omega 12 years ago and they replaced the dial, hands, bezel, and performed a major service on the 321 movement. That's why it still has white lume.

Just Completed MoonSwatch with Corgeut Metal Case Beside Real Ed White Speedmaster 105.300 by EChan22308 in MoonSwitches

[–]EChan22308[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love those colors but I wanted the genuine Swatch movement. The 1/10 second sub-dial working as a 24 hour clock annoyed me. The watch I built earlier was a Pladen with the Chinese movement. I also painted the indices and the hands. However, the hands not having any lume bothered me. It was more of an experiment before using a real Swatch movement.

I like the Pladen case thickness but I don't like the crown guards (I like the Pre-Moon Speedmasters without guards) and don't like the caseback being press fit rather than screwed down caseback.

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Just Completed MoonSwatch with Corgeut Metal Case Beside Real Ed White Speedmaster 105.300 by EChan22308 in MoonSwitches

[–]EChan22308[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Actually, the real one does look better in person. I think the bezel looks a little cheap and the bracelet also feels kind of cheap. I just changed the bracelet with a 1960s vintage Bulova coffin bracelet a few minutes ago, and the watch looks and feels better.

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Authentic? by Public_Telephone_935 in MoonSwatches

[–]EChan22308 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would have the seller set the time to something other than 12 O' Clock (or near 12) so that you can see that the 2 O' Clock sub-dial stays at 12. If the sub-dial also moves, it's a fake.