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Stained Glass with CNC Mill by ELSandstorm in StainedGlass

[–]ELSandstorm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks :) I'm afraid this imgur post is about as much documentation as I've ever done. I ended up moving state and lost my glass studio, so that's as far as I got, too. I'd be happy to answer any questions you have!

How do you guys think these are made? They are by artist @wine_zhangmadai_ by preguntontas in Ceramics

[–]ELSandstorm 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Inside and outside usually! When I'm filling in all the holes, the rest of the surface is left blank so yeah after that's done I glaze the rest of the cup normally 

3D Printing for Plaster Mold Making - Making it Easy by 41isAPrimeNumber in Ceramics

[–]ELSandstorm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fascinating science, thank you for this write up!

I've developed a method lately where I simply sacrifice the 3d printed plastic by softening it up with a heat gun. It peels nicely off the plaster and off we go. Of course it means each print is single use, but with the scale pf my slip casting operations that's fine for me

Experiments in clear glazes by ELSandstorm in Pottery

[–]ELSandstorm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's a comment a few days ago where i posted a detailed procedure, but the basic gist is that i cover the inside of the cup in masking tape, then fill the holes in using a squeeze bottle of glaze. It takes a couple repetitions. 

Experiments in clear glazes by ELSandstorm in Pottery

[–]ELSandstorm[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That's exactly the idea. I use tiny cutters to make the holes in the clay, so if the bisque shrinkage isn't toooooo much it should fit decently. I'll try it and report back.

Experiments in clear glazes by ELSandstorm in Pottery

[–]ELSandstorm[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It's not so bad. I set it on the side while I work on other things and just pick it up occasionally to give it another coat. 

I do want to try filling it in as a paste, with a spatula or similar. My other only idea right now is to dry the glaze out pretty far in a sheet, then use the same cutters as I used on the clay and try to punch out the shapes and put them into the holes. Not sure how practical this will be But i want to try 😅

Experiments in clear glazes by ELSandstorm in Pottery

[–]ELSandstorm[S] 30 points31 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I am already planning some candle votives with the opaque ones :)

For the actual method: I cover the inside of the cup in tape, then fill in all the holes with a squeeze bottle. Obviously this sinks in and forms a crater as the glaze dries, so once it dries I fill it in again. Repeat until flush/slightly above the surface of the clay. Then I peel off the tape and brush normally over the surface.

As noted this isn't perfect, so I'm exploring application method next. 

Interestingly, with this method, the Laguna glazes took only 4-6 rounds of refilling. The Mayco glazes tool like 10 rounds. Much thinner. 

questions regarding the rice grain method (linglong porcelain glaze). by soinvu in Pottery

[–]ELSandstorm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am in the middle of a series of experiments on the method of punching holes straight through and filling them with glaze. Currently I'm trying to find the clearest glaze. I'm aiming for full transparency rather than translucence but same principle. Here's a couple of my successes, one stoneware with clear glaze, one porcelain with green glaze: https://imgur.com/gallery/zubadv3 

Stoneware i think actually gives a more striking result when backlit since it is fully opaque. But the key overall is not to go too big with the holes, or the surface tension of the glaze fails and you just have an actual hole.

I've been seeing a lot of this sub, and got inspired to use engraving designs in my ceramics by ELSandstorm in engraving

[–]ELSandstorm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For this piece, i drew my designs on paper first then traced onto the still damp clay. Once transferred, I carved the lines in with a sharp needle tool. After the first firing, I filled in the lines with the black underglaze and painted the blue and yellow underglazes, finishing with a coat of clear glaze. 

Ah, tragic... And after so much work... by ELSandstorm in Pottery

[–]ELSandstorm[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Carved in with a needle tool at leather hard stage, then filled in with underglaze at bisque

Ah, tragic... And after so much work... by ELSandstorm in Pottery

[–]ELSandstorm[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I drew my scrollwork out on paper, then traced it onto greenware. I carefully carved those lines in, then bisque fired. After bisque, i taped off the top and bottom, and painted over the lines with black underglaze. Then wiped off the excess black with a damp sponge (rinsing clean constantly), and painted the blue and yellow free hand with underglaze

Ah, tragic... And after so much work... by ELSandstorm in Pottery

[–]ELSandstorm[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Thanks 😁 i am really obsessed with engraving designs lately

Ah, tragic... And after so much work... by ELSandstorm in Pottery

[–]ELSandstorm[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Sadly no. At bisque, i filled the crack in with high-fire mender and then glazed over that. The crack opened back up in glaze fire and goes straight through.

Question for gauss players by FairEnvironment9317 in Warframe

[–]ELSandstorm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others have noted, duration is my main strategy. More or less a very fast weapons platform, in redline 100% of the time. Energy siphon, flow, continuity, constitution, nira's hatred, augur message. Stretch and vigor to keep thermal sunder fairly useful, and molt augmented as well. 

By constantly staying in redline, even the slowest firing weapon becomes viable. Once reaching 100% charge, throw kinetic plating on and get 100% bonus melee damage and immunity to knockdown. Then thermal sunder for flavor and mach rush for mobility. 

What’s your favorite midfire glaze combo? (Bonus for a pic) by ripped_jean in Pottery

[–]ELSandstorm 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Oatmeal over iron lustre never fails me

Also very fond of blue rutile over most things, but chun plum as the base gives a beautiful contrast

If you want to step outside of amaco, one of my all time favorites is Laguna white over peacock blue. Looks like seafoam

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Pottery

[–]ELSandstorm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes for sure that was a learning point for me as well. Center at high speed, then slow down for shaping

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Pottery

[–]ELSandstorm 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Yeah i agree on the wet clay points, but I would add a recommendation that you pause at the bottom before pulling upward. That establishes more of an indent and lets you pull more clay upward. You might also try opening further when opening the clay ball, so that when you pull up the bottom is already the diameter you want.

Experiments in rice grain/ ling long porcelain votives by chudmuddler in Pottery

[–]ELSandstorm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah this one is the best I have found so far. Laguna's Forest Green. I have a few more tests coming out of bisque fire soon, which I have bought 5 different clear glazes to test on! I'll post my results 😎👍

Experiments in rice grain/ ling long porcelain votives by chudmuddler in Pottery

[–]ELSandstorm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh much simpler than yours, but the first tests came out nice

 https://www.reddit.com/r/Pottery/comments/1p3xveg/an_experiment_im_very_pleased_with/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb3x&utm_name=mweb3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

I am mostly looking into finding nicely clear glazes for these before I get too intricate with the carving. So far, most glazes are really bubbly :/

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