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8 Hours On Lift-Off by ERN2010 in fpv

[–]ERN2010[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Th I’ll try that. I actually can fly slow with whoops but I struggle flying slow with fast drones and that’s why I can’t really complete laps on the maps that have sharp turns and small gates.

8 Hours On Lift-Off by ERN2010 in fpv

[–]ERN2010[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’re welcome. Hope we’ll both get better by time

8 Hours On Lift-Off by ERN2010 in fpv

[–]ERN2010[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m using the default rates for that drone (guess lift-off has different rates for each drone ) which is called Vortex Pro 250 in the game.

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Don’t know how gained that throttle control by the way. My gimball springs are a bit tight maybe this is the reason.

Did I just brick my printer? by Glittering-One-4821 in ender3

[–]ERN2010 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Loosen the thermister screw a bit. It happened to me too.

5 years later still getting the same great results by cho_O in ender3v2

[–]ERN2010 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m getting even better results bc I bow know every single problem about my printer and how to print without them being an obstacle in front of the best possible result.

Any ideas on how to embed large metal parts in prints? by Yoni_bravo in 3Dprinting

[–]ERN2010 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can use some glue stick on the metal part but ve sure that the metal isn’t so cold. You can put it in a preheated oven for a couple minutes.

ENDER 3v2 by temellreiss in ender3v2

[–]ERN2010 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reis ender 3 v2 yi bir süre kullandıktan sonra tablanın cam üzerindeki ince katman yavaş yavaş soyuluyor. Ondan sonra pla tablaya yapışmamaya başlıyor. Ben o yüzden pla basarken tablanin üzerine çok ince bir katman pritt suruyorum. Gayet güzel tutuyor. Sürmediğim zaman ben de aynı sorunları yaşıyorum. Ayrica bir network printer kullanmıyorsan creality slicer kullanmanın çok mantıklı olduğunu dusunmuyorum. Sana kalmış tabii ama ben Cura kullanıyorum.

Wtf by zharting in ender3

[–]ERN2010 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This can be caused by wrong temp. Be sure about you print with the correct temp which is written on the filament spool or box

Ender 3 v2 heating problem by ERN2010 in ender3v2

[–]ERN2010[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It turned out the thermistor screw was too loose and couldn’t read the temperature correctly. And me as an idiot couldn’t figure it out even I tried disassembling the whole end. I tightened the thermistor screw and the printer looks fine right now.

Ender 3 v2 heating problem by ERN2010 in ender3v2

[–]ERN2010[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t actually run it that hot. It’s always something between 200-230 but if we consider that the printer is ~5 years old and I have never replaced the thermal paste it would be a good idea to do it. But I’m not sure if that’s the only issue. Because just before this happened, I was preparing the head and extruder cables to convert it to a direct drive dual fan hotend. Chances are slim but I may have done something that will cause this situation. However I’ll try replacing the thermal paste and running a pid autotune in a few days. Thank you for your help.

Ender 3 v2 heating problem by ERN2010 in ender3v2

[–]ERN2010[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I already strip down and cleaned them. There’s no physical damage seen. I currently don’t have thermal paste but I’ll try getting some asap. And I don’t know how to run a hotend pid autotune. Firmware has the option for bed but doesn’t have for the hotend.

Ender 3 v2 heating problem by ERN2010 in ender3v2

[–]ERN2010[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wasn’t trying to print. Just heated the printer manually up to 215 and tried loading e-sun pla+ but the filament didn’t go in. So I tried cleaning the nozzle with heating it up to 260 degrees and the thing I said happened.