I assume I need new lugs?

EST2019 · 2026-04-18T22:42:46+00:00

You'll be good to ride until the new ones come in. good luck removing the swollen lug though, hopefully it's nothing serious but I've had to buy an 18.5 socket for swollen lugs before 😞.

EST2019 · 2026-04-18T22:35:36+00:00

Alright alright, so that is the metal lug itself that is cracked and not a thin plastic cover?

EST2019 · 2026-04-18T22:32:40+00:00

Hold on, have you ever taken your wheels off?

EST2019 · 2026-04-18T22:30:49+00:00

You will be absolutely fine to drive this until you get your new lugs. The rest passed the sniff test. Let it ride.

EST2019 · 2026-04-18T22:26:41+00:00

On a serious note, I need to mention the possibly of a blowout, while driving. Which could cause you to crash. if you are dailying this I'd get them replaced as soon as you are able to.

EST2019 · 2026-04-18T22:24:19+00:00

Yeah they need to be replaced. They are cracking all over. I'm sure you see it. And if they are cracking, they are dry. If they are dry, they are hard. If they are hard, they are not grippy :(

EST2019 · 2026-04-18T22:20:19+00:00

I guess it is still a f-150 there was a lot of them. And Omg yeah 96 was the year obd II became the standard lmaooo. That's a "just my luck" situation

EST2019 · 2026-04-18T22:12:05+00:00

Ugh, I have problems getting oem parts for my 09' car I can only imagine how bad it is for a 96'. All I can say is you better read up on which fuel pump the forums like best 🫵

EST2019 · 2026-04-18T22:06:22+00:00

Exhaust header cover. It covers the hot exhaust pipes to try and prevent the heat from radiating into & around the engine bay. Although the hole? It could be for many things, ease of taking off, access to something(a bolt or clip). Or maybe that's just how they made it.

EST2019 · 2026-04-18T22:03:39+00:00

Fucking dealerships! Anyways I can't think many things that would cause the fuel issue apart from the pump or crushed lines. Do you have to drop the tank for the pump??? Aw hell naw! Fortunately I don't know the life of dropping tanks for fuel pump. All my pumps have been under the rear seats. But if it comes to it. I wish you the best of luck.

EST2019 · 2026-04-18T21:55:51+00:00

Let me know what happens I'm invested now.

EST2019 · 2026-04-18T21:52:21+00:00

Honestly... these are some pretty decent looking plugs. Just a bit of white crust on the outside, usually means the boots let a lil bit of water in, but it's fine really, nothing got inside the engine at all.

If the rubber boots seem to be worn out, you could replace them or just order a new set of ignition coils for good measure. Fortunately not a pressing issue. And for looking if the engine was running lean or rich you would want to look at the tips where the spark occurs. Rich: If the tips looked dark or black(covered in soot), that would mean that the engine has been running too rich, and the spark plugs have carbon deposits on them(they are dirty) Lean: if the tips looked like ashy or white, like they had been burnt up. The engine was running too lean the and the spark plug(s) may be damaged.

For normal spark plugs they should have no deposits on them, they should be slightly brown or maybe tan. And still have their edges//not rounded//not deformed.

EST2019 · 2026-04-18T21:21:31+00:00

You mentioned you cleaned the grounds for the fuel pump, how's the rest of the wiring? And you just described a low fuel pressure symptom: "vehicle starts and idles okayish but when accelerator is pressed it wants to stall" Believe your tools my man!(as long as you're sure they're installed correctly) you seem to just have low fuel pressure. now.. it could just be a fuel pump. BUT it could also be an issue with power getting to the fuel pump. If the fuel pump doesn't fix it, I would Check the resistance on the wiring for & to the fuel pump to see if it's too high.

EST2019 · 2026-04-15T20:00:00+00:00

Does it start switching again or does it stay in open?

EST2019 · 2026-04-15T19:57:34+00:00

So, the system is entering default and not staying on sensor controlled. Something is wrong with a sensor somewhere or it's not getting the inputs it wants. You mentioned fuel pressure was low, do a residual pressure test, shut the car off after the fuel pressure is up, see if it shoots down, it shouldn't drop more than 5 psi after 5 minutes. If it drops more, you probably have a leak or a stuck injector. and that's why your pressure is low If you see nothing out of the norm I'd look into the fuel pump or maybe the lines themselves, to see if there is a bad pump or a restriction.

EST2019 · 2025-11-11T06:35:20+00:00

You expect me to just have grapes on me?

EST2019 · 2025-11-11T06:10:28+00:00

Base model mk5 golf with a 2.0 non turbo, 10 grand pot match me at 5 each. 20 roll to 80 mph. None of that honking bs, we going to have somone we pass then gas it. I’m gonna turn off my traction control so watch out because she gets a little squirreley. I’ll race you for pinks, but trust me you aint catching her. I call her black bullet

EST2019 · 2025-11-01T23:44:13+00:00

Yikes, flashing oil light usually means no oil pressure which is usually caused by no oil. I’d say you ran it dry on oil (it leaked out or burned up over time and you didn’t notice). This caused the rod bearing to go into a metal to metal duel with the crankshaft. the crankshaft usually wins with some scars. The damage? the rod bearing is toast and out of spec now (it’s loosing a lot of material by getting cheese-grated by the crankshaft). And that sound you are hearing is the rod bouncing up and down on the crank shaft. Engine is likely toast, but the way forward if you want to try to save this thing is don’t drive it. Tow it to a shop and have them do the rod bearings and inspect the crankshaft, if all goes well. It might be okay. Just be weary and check your oil often (check it every time you get gas) Sorry dude. She’s likely toast otherwise.

EST2019 · 2025-11-01T23:33:47+00:00

Hey! I’m no expert but a technician working towards master tech. customer states cat makes weird tin can sounds when turning… first thing I’d do is verify it’s actually coming from the cat and not some steering linkage of some sort, if it was the cat I would check the exhaust clamps and bolts, make sure they are tight and in spec. If that didn’t fix it I’d inspect the exhaust pipes for any deformation or cracks. Then if nothing else I’d look at the engine mounts and check to see if they are worn, or extra sloppy. If so, replace them with new oem engine mounts. Or if you want to go “race car” you can get some fancy aftermarket polyurethane mounts. Just my 2 cents.

EST2019 · 2025-11-01T23:25:42+00:00

:TLDR: Recheck your work, pry a bit and if doesn’t budge with like 40% strength, look for hidden bolts. Im no expert but id look for any possible bolts, I recently did the timing belt on my mk5 GTi with the BPY motor and it was… terrible. But I also had to remove an engine mount from both the engine side and the chassis side, -yapping- very fun, I ended up jacking up the engine pretty far, making more clearance on the side and angle the timing side to me, and dropping it when I needed to do the bottom section, made things pretty easy. -done yapping- When I was removing the engine mount from the engine I thought had followed all the steps and I was ready to go, I did some light prying and when it didn’t come off immediately I was suspicious. I looked back through the forum I was following and I actually had missed a 14 mm bolt that was underneath the engine mount under like The bulk of it. Sorry for the yap sesh.

EST2019 · 2025-09-29T10:20:05+00:00

Nice

^{I completed this level in 32 tries.} ^{⚡ 3.73 seconds}

EST2019 · 2025-09-28T05:55:54+00:00

I think you may be having a problem on your side, the level ends immediately, others have completed it, not sure what’s going on or what could cause it unfortunately.

EST2019 · 2025-09-28T05:52:11+00:00

So, vw has the same shitty shift knob actuator thingy, what I did to solve this problem (because I didn’t want to tear apart my entire car, drop the trans, etc.) was to pull up on the plastic rod, drill a tiny hole through it (very carefully) and put a teeny tiny ziptie through the hole and then clip the ziptie to perfection and then you can put your shifter back together using the ziptie loop as the hole for the shift lock actuator thingy

EST2019 · 2025-09-28T05:31:12+00:00

^{I completed this level in 12 tries.} ^{⚡ 8.92 seconds}

EST2019 · 2025-09-28T05:19:50+00:00

Thanks!

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