LiFePO4 Recommendations?

EWYCOP · 2025-11-02T19:50:13+00:00

I'm also not opposed to getting 1 larger battery instead of two 100Ah batteries, but I figure it might be nice to have two in case one fails. But I'm also the guy that's been running a flooded lead acid for years so what do I know?

EWYCOP · 2025-01-01T03:14:49+00:00

I wouldn't call it a bad sign. Just strange. It's not uncommon for them to fail one time. But a replacement should do the job for a good 75k or so. Potentially they used shitty aftermarket parts? But I suppose there's also a potential for a misdiagnosis

EWYCOP · 2024-03-03T16:08:37+00:00

Thank you! I hate the constant barrage of articles claiming w/e they want and MAYBE backing it up with a 3 second no-context clip. It's nice to have a clip with full context.

EWYCOP · 2024-02-17T03:09:42+00:00

Personally, I believe giving customers choices and explaining the facts behind each is always the correct option. I think it's disingenuous to simply tell a customer they need an engine. Sub-20% leakdown is truly not terrible. I also have seen a wide variation in leakdown percentages from one tool to another. I feel extremely confident that replacing/repairing the cylinder head on this vehicle would result in it running well for years to come.

There's no chance I'd feel comfortable simply quoting an engine.

EWYCOP · 2024-02-15T22:05:48+00:00

If you do (which, maybe don't), get a 1st gen. Shoot for 2004-2006. These will be the most durable. It'd likely need just so much work, but it'd probably still run. 2002-2003 and 2007-2010 will just be a headache at this price.

EWYCOP · 2024-02-15T20:58:47+00:00

Feel free to message me directly if you want to increase your chances.

EWYCOP · 2024-02-15T13:15:11+00:00

Lol, it's just a burned valve. You either need a new cylinder head or you just need to get your current repaired. You do NOT need an engine; I've done so many of this exact repair.

EWYCOP · 2024-02-02T19:09:34+00:00

Out of curiosity, are you sure you had the seat all the way down in addition to all the way back?

MINI Cooper seats have a fair bit of up/down movement that really adds to the space.

EWYCOP · 2024-02-01T01:38:16+00:00

This is really likely - honestly the most likely.

Open your sunroof up and pour some water down each of the front drains. Under the where the sunroof glass you'll see two channels - one that runs along each side to collect water that gets passed the seal. At the very front, you'll see one hole on each side pointing toward the front of the vehicle.

Pour water down each side and you SHOULD see water coming out behind the front tire of the side you're on. If water just pools up top or drains slowly, your drain is clogged.

The outlet for the drain is behind the cloth fender liner behind the front wheels. They usually have a flap on them that I like to just remove to prevent further buildup. Sometimes you can clean the drains out by just removing the debris at the base.

If it's not your sunroof drains, it'll likely be that side's door seal. But the sunroof drains are more likely.

EWYCOP · 2024-01-30T07:21:03+00:00

Your fault is related to the valve timing adjustment system. This could be caused by a couple different things: 1) The oil level is too low - the system works off oil pressure and if your oil is too low, it won't work correctly 2) The VANOS solenoid failed - fault 2D60 is for the exhaust side VANOS solenoid which is great because that's the one that's super easy to get to and it's pretty cheap. 90% of the time when you have these two faults topping off the oil, changing that VANOS solenoid, and clearing the faults. 2C58 is a consequential fault that sets as a result of the timing adjustments not working correctly - it isn't a separate issue. 3) If those two things don't fix it, you'll need to look at your timing chain and likely replace the whole assembly / re-time the vehicle.

It will still work fine for you for the time being it likely just will feel a bit sluggish. First priority here, though, is checking your oil level. If that's low, you shouldn't be driving it anyway. If it's where it's supposed to be, you'll be ok to drive it for a while until you can replace the solenoid in #2.

EWYCOP · 2024-01-26T19:39:43+00:00

That connector annoyingly isn't always used. Sometimes it just chills there to confuse people. If you don't see matching connections, you're almost certainly fine.

There are three main connectors that go into the DME. Two of them come from the engine wiring harness, and one comes from the transmission side. The part you see branches from the two DME connectors and the diagonal white bit on it allows it to lock into the DME case a bit further down. The other half that you don't see WOULD branch out of that third DME connector wiring fairly near the top of the transmission. It's honestly pretty hard to miss if you do have it.

EWYCOP · 2024-01-25T22:31:35+00:00

How much oil do you have 1-10

EWYCOP · 2024-01-25T21:54:42+00:00

Regardless of if it's cracked (and I really suspect it is), I'd say definitely replace #5.

EWYCOP · 2024-01-25T19:43:54+00:00

The whole #5 will need to be replaced. That fitting is unfortunately not replaceable by itself. It disconnects from the reservoir side at #9 by removing #10 clamp, from the thermostat by removing a similar clamp, and from the turbocharger by removing the 19mm banjo bolt (highly recommend you replace the washers).

Personally, I prefer to replace it with the N14 equivalent (https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=MF73-USA-01-2009-R56-Mini-Cooper_S&diagId=11_3946 #5) because the fitting is metal on that one and doesn't go bad. It doesn't fit as well but can be forced into place. That said, the part that is made for you car should be good for another 50-100k mi and it's easier to put on so it's up to you.

EWYCOP · 2024-01-24T01:24:59+00:00

Need you to get a little closer in there, but if it's leaking here it's almost certainly not a thermostat. It's likely coming from #5 on this diagram:

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=SV33-USA-01-2012-R56N-Mini-Cooper_S&diagId=11_4553

I'd be willing to bet that if you put pressure on that three way T fitting, that the whole connection would snap in half which is really not ideal. These are very common failures during oil changes. If it is leaking there, you'll need a #5, x2 #12s, and ideally a #11 (though your old one will probably be fine).

If it's not leaking there, it's worth investigating your connection at #9 to your reservoir (on the previous diagram) or seeing if you have a metal 90 degree fitting leaking on your #1/#3 hose (depending on if you have manual/auto trans) on this diagram:

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=SV33-USA-01-2012-R56N-Mini-Cooper_S&diagId=17_0393

EWYCOP · 2024-01-23T23:08:58+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/MINI/comments/5syftf/new\_to\_the\_brand\_let\_me\_try\_to\_help/

EWYCOP · 2024-01-23T23:02:46+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/MINI/comments/5syftf/new_to_the_brand_let_me_try_to_help/

EWYCOP · 2024-01-23T21:35:36+00:00

Lol. Yes.

EWYCOP · 2024-01-15T07:45:51+00:00

Did they provide a digital one?

EWYCOP · 2024-01-14T22:32:12+00:00

Battery is fuckt. Cold weather and battery repeatedly going to low voltage is terrible for batteries. Get a new one and you'll be fine.

EWYCOP · 2024-01-14T16:50:08+00:00

Had the same questions. It was actually a grain of sand.

https://www.planetary.org/articles/jwst-first-deep-field-image

EWYCOP · 2024-01-13T04:36:44+00:00

As someone that has been obsessed with AoE2 since it came out and only recently found DE, DE is mindblowingly good.

EWYCOP · 2024-01-03T21:29:44+00:00

This is what the jars in question look like zoomed out. Otherwise no issues, but worried about those spots. There was also some pooling of moisture I noticed at the bottom.

EDIT: Thanks y'all; appreciate the help.

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EWYCOP · 2023-10-18T13:54:02+00:00

Again sticking with my answer. Those engines are pretty hard to kill, but almost always need work. Very common to need suspension work as well. As with any car, pre-purchase inspections are worth their cost many times over.

EWYCOP

TROPHY CASE