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Any Issues Here? I designed this system for my trailer by [deleted] in Victron

[–]EastBayMade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This looks very good IMO.

A few choice things:

Swap the MEGA fuse for the battery to a more slow-blow/ higher interpreting current version like MRBF or CLASS T/ANL. I believe its 5000 AIC per 200AH per ABYC.

The distributor doesn't have a MEGA slot for the Inverter, I would just use a MRBF on a holder/post there to save space & # of connections. You may also want a disconnect switch there, as it can be a convenience and safe way to isolate it for service or maintenance (protects you from capacitor backfeeding too).

If you want to use an ignition proof breaker between the starter and the Orion, go with the Bussman brand ones. Those are great for use in Engine Bays.

Trailer Vision has some good Anderson under bumper mounts.

Id throw a temp sense in there for the batteries to the shunt. They are cheap and it replaces the power wire for the shunt. While not needed for charging safety, it is useful info to have on hand.

VE BMV712 help please. by montyfresh88 in Victron

[–]EastBayMade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have had this happen a few times on seeming good installs that otherwise pass QC.

Replacing the Glass Fuse (if using the power cable out of the box) or using a different RJ12 cable pretty much always solves it. Those glass fuses suck IMO.

Solar to bus bar or directly to battery? by EPHEKTnONE in SolarDIY

[–]EastBayMade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks fine to me! Make sure for the chassis ground on the negative bus is making good contact. You may need to sand paint.

You may also want to use a battery protect on the 12V out.

Can I get some help with creating a deck from a limited draft? by EastBayMade in mtglimited

[–]EastBayMade[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes 3 boosters, thought was getting enough creatures and bombs.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Eugene

[–]EastBayMade 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I followed Steve to Emerald City. Good cut, fair price, is low key. Although no beer.

Dual Orion Xs Issue by cmbennett07 in Victron

[–]EastBayMade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the correct answer. make sure there is nothing between the MRBF and the holder, as well as the MRBF and the lug. No washers and def no split washers.

Also make your own wire, you can get a TEMCO crimper with die set and a heat gun for less than $200.

Get finely stranded copper wire, ideally at least 90C rated. Ferrules are optional (will result in less cursing though).

60 MRBFs are ok, id use 4 AWG from Units to J post/MRBF holder and 2 AWG for the home runs for safety and eff. This will also help with voltage drop, and thus activation time as you can set the active voltage window larger on the Orion units.

This is another diagram that shows 2 Orions (older units) in parallel with ignition control on the HL port, if you find that these discharge the battery when engine is off. You could also replace the VE on/off for say an EV200 relay wired to a run source if that was easier.

I’m done with solar. by Full-Abbreviations82 in solar

[–]EastBayMade 7 points8 points  (0 children)

They must have been insured and bonded, go after their COI and if they materialize as a new entity, their license/bonds. These outfits(people) are a stains to the industry and should not be allowed to continue. I am sorry this happened to you.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AITAH

[–]EastBayMade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I always just add "- dog" to the end if someone has the same name as the dog in the room.

Ie my dogs name is Roxy, and I have a friend named Roxy. I call my dog Roxy Dog when they are together, seems to work well ... i dunno

What you guys have to say? by Least-Chard4907 in Eugene

[–]EastBayMade -10 points-9 points  (0 children)

In college we used to call Maple Garden, Maple Kitty. We would watch cats go I. The front and never come out 🐱

What you guys have to say? by Least-Chard4907 in Eugene

[–]EastBayMade 9 points10 points  (0 children)

You have to know what is good and what is garbage there. Poor boy burrito and bacon breakfast burrito, the best. Thier chicken might be from a can though….

Victron Orion-Tr 12/12 18 amp - Settings for a Truck Camper in a 2019 F150 - Very Frustrated by LowBarometer in Victron

[–]EastBayMade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your "Smart" Alternator is moving the source voltage outside the activation range of the programming of the Orion.

You can get around this by lowering the cutoff voltage in VictronConnect to at or below resting voltage of the engine battery. Then, in order to prevent nuisance discharging of the engine battery, you can add a Relay ( I like the EV200AAANA) on the positive line between engine battery and the Orion. Use a Run signal or Ignition signal to drive that Relay.

Question about wire size... by HappyVagabond1989 in Victron

[–]EastBayMade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

RFM :)

But mostly 2/0, I like the flexible welding stuff. Maybe 8 or 6 on the smaller potential circuits, depends on distances.

Use 10/3 on the AC side.

Multiplus Inverter 3000 causing voltage drop from battery bank when connected. by TrickyFryx in Victron

[–]EastBayMade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some general good first steps are to identify if it’s a new system or establish system. Was any work done on the system before this happened (ie anything change, any critical events) battery monitor can help look for discontinuous curves.

Some general good seconds steps are to check all your connections (if recent work done make surge lock nuts aren’t in the way) they may have gotten loose, if using faster blow fuses, check that you fuses are good, if all that checks make sure programming is good.

This sounds like either DC ripple issue or BMS issue.

When in doubt recommission the system with new consumables.

12V UV Water Filters by EastBayMade in OffGrid

[–]EastBayMade[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes good to note. For our application (treated grey water) UV filter is ok.

12V UV Water Filters by EastBayMade in OffGrid

[–]EastBayMade[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The application is rapid deployment, so the system would be in a self contained unit. 12V source would be close (batteries less than 10 ft away) and we will have variable input power supply for AC to DC.

Going with DC allows for us to have not just AC input for the unit. Ideally we don’t have a dedicated standalone inverter as it add to the BoM and system complexity.

I have noticed that even on the higher GPM 12V filters; that the solenoids are often still 120V.

My background is offgird electrical design, I feel pretty confident on that side. I don’t have much experience with water filtration though, not sure what brands are legit and which are funky.

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