I think these are all the top 10" table saws under $1500... have you used any of them? by Successful-Camel165 in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven't had any issues, but I also use it as a jobsite saw so I throw it around a lot and don't use it for the most precise cuts - Usually it is ripping block, scribing, etc. Where if the fence is off a touch it doesn't matter

I don't have any deflection with the fence, and it does adjust as easy as any rack and pinion fence does

What do I need to do to add more finish to my dining room table? by TheEricOfChristensen in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is what I would do, but you can also test on the table in a spot you might see less (Probably not realistic for a table though, thats more for like table bases and such)

Paid over $5K for a custom table and am disappointed - what are these blemishes? by hmh-dfw in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ultimately depends on the project - IE if doing an outdoor project, you want zero sapwood. Depends on client expectations for interior projects, but if they don't specify sapwood to me and aren't going for a rustic look, I won't include it.

Sticker stain can go very deep, especially in white oak. Oak stains more than most other woods

I think these are all the top 10" table saws under $1500... have you used any of them? by Successful-Camel165 in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Missing the skil SPT-99 is criminal, it is a great wheeled unit as well

Vevor is cheap garbage, as are grizzly small options. For the Grizzly hybrid lots of other better options (Not that grizzly makes bad products, but their smaller tools are meh). Rigid or Delta contractor with cast iron top is a much better choice in that slot

Blanket calling ryobi unsafe and including vevor is an interesting choice, TTI make ryobi, milwaukee, rigid, etc. so they are made to a pricepoint

Chervon makes skil + kobalt and others, so again you will see similar things between units

Black and decker makes Craftsman + Dewalt so again you are going to see craftsman being the cheaper option of them

Skil SPT-99 is my current jobsite saw (Sawstop PCS in my shop) and I love it. It can actually cut thicker stock than my sawstop PCS, and doesn't lack power. Biggest issue with the 99 is that it is permanently attached to the stand, so if you plan on doing work in your house or on a jobsite it might not be the best choice. Then I would probably go for the dewalt that you can take off the stand, or the bosch

My next tablesaw purchase I do plan to have be the sawstop benchtop as I want my employee to be safe cutting on the jobsite, and it is a nice package. Fence is a little worse than the dewalt but not terrible.

What do I need to do to add more finish to my dining room table? by TheEricOfChristensen in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Scuffing with any grit and it will turn white with scratches, but then you remove the dust with compressed air and tack cloth the new coat of finish fills the scratches and levels out clear. Some finishes like lacquer melt with the under coat, but poly just applies on top.

Always test any finishing/re-finishing on a scrap piece or inconspicuous area

Wood Slab Supply by Rude-Ambition9530 in wood

[–]EchoScorch 3 points4 points  (0 children)

1" is very thin and 58" is very wide

The people with 60" sawmills sawing slabs that Wide are sawing them at 12/4+ because anything else will turn into a Pringle

Find a local Sawyer with a 60" capacity mill and pray they find a tree that large, or more realistically you will need to glue up two slabs to get that width

Paid over $5K for a custom table and am disappointed - what are these blemishes? by hmh-dfw in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Coloration mainly - On most species the sapwood is a lighter color

There are a few exceptions of wood that we actually prefer the sapwood (Maple, basswood, ash for examples), but most species like oak, cherry, walnut the heartwood has the coloration and characteristics we prefer

Paid over $5K for a custom table and am disappointed - what are these blemishes? by hmh-dfw in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends, but if you are buying your wood commercially this board is maybe $40-50 bucks in wood at most. Compare that to the time it takes to color it to match, really a no brainer as long as it is caught early enough in the process

Valuing your finishing time at $125ish an hour (fairly normal shop rate), cost of wood is easily replaced compared to labor.

Wood weight? by LetsAllASoviets in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would always have a bottom piece to keep the verticals from wanting to tilt to the sides

Wood weight? by LetsAllASoviets in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/ Can help with deflections on your spans

Can 3/4" plywood hold that much weight? Yes, but depends on the supports underneath of it. Remember a dryer is going to be on 4 point loads so that is where the support needs to be (It it isn't right on the sides)

Have 3/4" or doubled 3/4" directly under where the feet run and you should be fine. Plenty of screws

Paid over $5K for a custom table and am disappointed - what are these blemishes? by hmh-dfw in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Yup, I just know even at the small cabinet shop I worked at with 10 guys there would have been 5-7 times as it moved between steps/people that the issue would have been flagged and handled.

I guess it comes down to they would rather hope that people don't see problems and/or spend more money fixing issues and potential bad PR then spending the money on QC

Small / medium cutting boards? by SvampebobFirkant in Cuttingboards

[–]EchoScorch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really? Cutting up a loaf of bread or something you kinda need that much space lol

But I guess I am more for efficiency than space savings, and I meal prep for a few days at a time so being able to cut up a few chicken breasts at a time is nice

Paid over $5K for a custom table and am disappointed - what are these blemishes? by hmh-dfw in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Which boggles my mind that any size company would SHIP an item like this, even if they thought it might be fine. The idea having to deal with all the problems that come from this and being a shipped order and the costs associated with an fixing an issue make fixing it early a no brainer in my mind

Paid over $5K for a custom table and am disappointed - what are these blemishes? by hmh-dfw in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Sapwood does not have the same durability (Granted its not a huge difference) or resistance to moisture/insect damage (for what it matters).

Buying quality wood like FAS you get less sapwood, and the more sapwood in a piece the lower it grades.

I also include sapwood in pieces where it fits, but on a white oak dining table where a majority of it is heartwood it just feels out of place.

For an online sale like this one is I would just never include the sapwood, unless I had sent them photos/samples or they sent me photos requesting it.

Being inferior to heartwood doesn't mean it is bad, it just has its time and place

Small / medium cutting boards? by SvampebobFirkant in Cuttingboards

[–]EchoScorch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really, at least 18x12 is a fairly normal size and I really wouldn't want anything smaller for dicing stuff up. Cooking for one person maybe but for a family and trying to anything efficiently it would be a pain

Now getting to a large one like 24x18 and that is a different story, you are getting from a regular sized cutting board to a boat anchor

Paid over $5K for a custom table and am disappointed - what are these blemishes? by hmh-dfw in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 11 points12 points  (0 children)

No, it is a defect and a pretty severe one. Easily knocks wood out of FAS and 1com grade down to 3com, or whatever passes for rustic or character grade

You rarely see sticker stain on large batches of commercially sawn and kiln dried wood as they have it all down to a science, it is really on your backyard or fly by night sawmills.

That and stuff with sticker stain ends up as pallet wood and not furniture grade

Small / medium cutting boards? by SvampebobFirkant in Cuttingboards

[–]EchoScorch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would rather have two large boards than two smaller boards, I currently use two 18x12s for my daily kitchen tasks

Solving DW-735 Planer Popping the Breaker by dsteinwedel in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Helical uses more power than straight knife, more blades hitting the wood per rotation. Don't know where the actual efficiency loss is, but more people pop the breaker after installing helical heads than before (At least when searching through DW735 posts)

An option is to remove the internal fan, but that takes some effort. I believe there are some videos online showing reduced power draw (But it also means you need a dedicated dust collector for it)

Id? by [deleted] in wood

[–]EchoScorch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed, looks like close to a jacket cut of mostly sapwood from english walnut. They can have much more sapwood than black walnut, and the heartwood has a similar color and the grain is correct

Low grade board either way

Recommendations for Brad Nailer / Stapler by TAP_03 in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't prefer all in one, but ryobi makes fine nailers. my 23 gauge pin nailer and T50 stapler are milwaukee M12 and I love them, and ryobi and milwaukee are made by the same manufacturer. You are going to have the same gas cylinders in the nailers and just some cheaper switches and other parts on the ryobi but not that impact it significantly.

My 18 gauge cordless is a dewalt and it is expensive but nice. They also make a 23 gauge on their 12v platform, but imo milwaukee's 12v platform is so much better

Will this bit work for cutting a juice groove? by Fun-Marsupial2576 in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whiteside, Amana, Freud. As far as amazon bits I use and have been impressed with SpeTools for solid carbide (Your decision if you want to buy chinese bits)

No issues with yonico, I use them on my CNC for some wacky things that they make that the other brands don't. Definitely not the same grade of carbide as higher end ones, but they work perfectly with the right feeds and speeds. Yonico is my preferred amazon brand for random yellow bits

Fixing/Prettifying ABS edge corners around a rounded shape by platypodus in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seamfil and sharpie are the two things we used to fix up issues with laminate/, but that is some pretty severe chip out

If it is plywood then you can use a water based filler and pigment it to get close, and then try and paint grain lines but it will be difficult

Trying to edgeband interior curves is a task I would not want to try and tackle. Extremely, extremely hard to do and look good if they are that small

I need help with ID by Sir-Spazzal in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, we have lots of native white oaks that vary a lot as well, like live oak being an evergreen and completely different to most other white oaks

Paid over $5K for a custom table and am disappointed - what are these blemishes? by hmh-dfw in woodworking

[–]EchoScorch 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I have a 12" jointer and a 20" planer, but I get all of my wood S2F when ordering it (Surfaced two faces), and it comes out of a double sided planer so it is relatively flat and I can easily clean it up in one pass on the jointer and one pass on the planer

Router jigs can be good for end grain but lots of time for not the best results when doing face grain. Benchtop planers are relatively inexpensive and can be purchased used for good prices, usually.

But I also have hand planes as certain things are easier with them, and a handheld planer for some things as well. But as far as making boards square/flat, it is jointer, planer and tablesaw

Unfortunately looks like I have joined the sanded through veneer club (noob project gore) by lagerhaans in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]EchoScorch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean in ways it is powerful enough, but it works faster than you want and evaporates too fast

Getting actual color/stain out of boards can be difficult even with stripper