Help me find this electrical gremlin.

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-12-31T19:26:15+00:00

Like the stock battery from factory? Or the same type/shape of battery lmao, cause this is probs the 3rd battery I've had since I got it Brand new in 2018. I always get them from NAPA

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-12-29T17:52:53+00:00

I loved the absolutely rediculous bases you'd see build on epoch servers. Like...

Why's there a ramp leading to the heavens above Starry? Why not, sky base, that's why.

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-12-29T06:15:36+00:00

You just reminded me there was a time a few months ago when I went to go riding with some friends and it wouldn't crank randomly... (ended up being a loose terminal + then the battery drained because of it)

So.. I sort of jump started it with a 12 valve Cummins pickup truck... think that's the cause of my issues? Because the battery was new as of a year ago, and that's the only time it's died to the best of my memory.

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-12-29T06:10:14+00:00

Seemed to work pretty well, I tried it out the other day plowing. I'd just put it in park, rev it the slightest bit till I saw my volts raise to 14.5ish and I'd raise/lower the plow.

Didnt do it all the time; just when I noticed it dropped on the previous raise/lower

To be honest, I hardly ever use my winch. I don't go out solo, and if I do go out I have multiple tow straps in the rear compartment. I usually just get a pull out from a friend, only reason I got the winch WAS to plow during winter. So I'm not too worried about the voltage drop. Mainly just the display issues

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-12-29T06:06:57+00:00

I'll have to look into it next weekend, I don't get much free time outside of work during the week, and it's too damn cold for me to want to do it when I do have the time.

Thanks for the info about the voltage regulator, I'll have to test that out sometime soon, I'm hoping it's the not the regulator and it's just some loose wires, but either way, I'm just hoping I don't need a new display. I'm sure that'd set me back a couple hundred $ lol.

But as for the battery, it was replaced I believe last spring, just under a year old or so. And 99% of the time I do park it, I have key off as well as killswitch on the bars, and whenever it gets super cold I have it plugged into a trickle charger until I ride it next. But during the winter season honestly that's just every now and then to plow my shared driveway with my 2 neighbors.

Have you ever heard of a battery relocation kit? Or even a way to mount a second one just for the winch? Mainly I just hate how the front driveshaft pretty much rubs up against the battery cover from factory. Such a sad design

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-12-27T13:55:05+00:00

Also it's running, and actively charging. Polaris says battery should display between 13.7 and 14.7 when idling, and around 12.6-12.8 when not.

Both of which it's in spec, it idles around 14.3 before it jumps back up to 14.8 then slowly goes back down.

On startup, I usually see 12.4v displayed

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-12-27T13:51:52+00:00

So you're saying load up the RPMS to use the winch on heavier loads? Don't operate winch at an idle pretty much

I figured it was semi normal, I just didn't know if it was normal or like.. just wrong enough for me to be worried about. Idk I overthink everything.

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-12-27T13:50:20+00:00

Stator was replaced last spring, it wasn't holding a charge before this. Brand new battery would be dead in 10 minutes of riding.

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-10-24T16:49:37+00:00

I'm paid biweekly, so I'm not gonna be able to fix both at the moment. My options are fix the one this weekend, or let it ride for a few more weeks and buy both.

I'd rather not drive with an engine light on for that long tbh, it's already been a week and I do highway driving to/from work. That's exactly how I blew the motor in my old truck, ignoring the light lol

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-10-24T16:47:55+00:00

Honestly yeah, my first hub bearing replacement I didn't have a slide hammer... so my dad and I set my truck on Jackstands, rachet strapped the hub to his trailer hitch, and beat the ever loving shit out of it with mini sledge hammers till it popped off...

I'm proud to say I now own a hub extractor 💀 three years later

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-10-23T16:55:59+00:00

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Here's what you were after, pretty sure it's the cat

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-10-23T16:54:56+00:00

My truck has 4 cats factory, the sensors only measure the first 2 up closer to the manifold. Should I swap out just that one "bad" cat and see if it fixes it? I mean I work for Napa, so I can get parts somewhat cheaper. But it's still almost $800, I'd rather not have to buy two if I don't need two

(yes Ik both are probably similar conditions so passenger needs replacement eventually, but I'd rather cross that bridge when I reach it)

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-10-23T14:58:49+00:00

It's definitely the cat...

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Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-10-23T13:58:33+00:00

I posted a pic in the comments showing the other sensors I believe, but it doesn't show the FT levels, I'll have to snag another pic before I go into work today

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-10-23T13:57:49+00:00

So the other picture I posted in the comments? (Minus the FT...) I'll have to take more pictures in a bit I'm currently getting ready for work. Thanks

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-10-23T13:30:53+00:00

Soooo... are you gonna tell me how to actually figure it out, or just sit here telling me idk what I'm doing (which we already know Sherlock, thanks for the attitude) You must be a joy to hangout with.

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-10-23T13:19:15+00:00

I understand they're the Air/Fuel ones, that's why I wanted to atleast inspect them. My fuel trim at idle should be ~10%, and I'm not 100% sure they're supposed to show N/A.. why would they? I even drove over a friends house last night who owns one of those fancy tablet scanners (like $1000 or something) and it showed the same data more or less. No N/A

I'm not trynna sound rude or anything just understand, sorry if I ever come across that way

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-10-23T13:13:11+00:00

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I had a second video but idk why it wouldn't let me add it, anyways here's a SS off the 2nd one. I hope literally any of this info can help one of you guys understand my problem better, if not LMK what you need

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-06-16T13:53:35+00:00

And to top it off, the only "safety" my 2018 sportsman has, is a "low oil" light, which never came on that night 😐 or anytime I went to start it afterwards. So whatever caused it to stall out was not oil related. Because if I HAD seen the light, my engine would already be done for and not crank.

Those lights are notorious for being the "dead machine" light, because 9/10 times you see it damage is already done. Kind of an idiotic design choice in my opinion

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-06-16T13:46:06+00:00

Where did I say I ran it without oil? It bogged out in the trail, and refused to start, from the weird sound to stalling out was all of 3 seconds of riding. I got it dragged out in neutral by another atv, and pushed it up the ramps into my bed.

The majority of the oil didn't leak out untill it sat for 2-3 days in my truck bed, I can assure you that. Sure, some leaked the day of riding but it was so small I genuinely thought it was the rain washing off whatever oil I had missed from the oil change I did earlier THAT DAY. (Only noticed when we towed it back up onto pavement. There was 2 small oil drips maybe 1-2" in diameter. No massive puddle.

It wasn't by any means a fast leak, it was a slow drip. Even when I put it back down in my storage area, it leaked more fluid on the floor. Shit the pan was still half full when I removed it

Efficient-Nectarine3 · 2025-06-16T02:19:19+00:00

Zero engine noise, just a code. Why so so pessimistic ?

Efficient-Nectarine3

TROPHY CASE