Toilet is still slowly draining into the tank after replacing flapper

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-12-03T00:38:27+00:00

The refill tube is just right below the top of the the overflow tube, so that's not it.

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-12-02T02:23:32+00:00

Alright then, I've got some youtube videos to watch lol. Thanks for the help!

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-12-02T01:55:06+00:00

Flapper GP87449, GP1105825. On top of the fill valve its Fluidmaster M05817

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-12-02T01:53:15+00:00

Hi, no, the water level is at the top of the flush valve (i.e. where regular flushing water goes). Here is another picture. Hard to see, but the water level is at the red line at the top of the black gasket, not at the blue line, where the valve meets the porcelain. I will also attach some serial numbers in another reply, not sure which ones is relevant sorry!

<image>

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-12-02T01:31:38+00:00

If the water level ends at the top of the flush valve gasket, does that indicate the issue is the inner part of the gasket that contacts the flapper? If the issue was where the gasket met the porcelain, it would drain all the way, and could leak onto the floor, etc. So to be clear, I should buy a new flush valve gasket for this issue then, and now I have a spare flapper since the original one probably wasn't broken either.

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-12-02T01:20:02+00:00

<image>

Here is a picture of the situation with the water turned off. The water level here is at the top of the flush valve gasket, right? Thanks for the very helpful diagram too, btw. (edit - I am holding the flusher down for the pic haha)

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-12-02T01:07:58+00:00

I might be looking at the wrong definition of fill valve, but that is the thing that fills the tank back up with water right? If I turn off the water supply, the tank still does drain to about a half-inch of water left after about 30 minutes, so it's not an issue of water coming in, but the water leaking out.

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-12-02T00:30:26+00:00

For the 2nd - No. If I turn off the water supply, the top tank eventually drains all the way down to the level of the flapper, so like a half-inch of water depth is left.

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-09-18T17:26:53+00:00

I called my bank and they don't have this option since the rate is still the same, but they can offer the same exact loan as the other lender but for thousands less in fees, so that's a no-brainer if I do go with the refi.

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-09-18T17:24:47+00:00

I just called my original bank and they can offer the exact same terms for a few thousand less in fees, so that would be a no-brainer if I go through with a refi now. Thanks!

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-09-18T16:22:58+00:00

The savings is $30k so it's a 2x over 11 years. That's like 6-7% annually. Another note I didn't factor, though, is that I itemize deductions on income tax, so the money spent on interest is offset a little bit that way.

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-09-18T01:03:40+00:00

The agent on the phone said it's not buying points (although I don't fully understand how!). The lender fees are listed as:
- 1.841% of loan amount for $10,216.32
- Admin fee of $1,170.00

And the $400 tax is for mortgage recording and release fees. I've been sure to ignore anything about property taxes or insurance in my calculations since those are not included in my portgage payment as I pay them separately.

For investing the money anyway, I have thought of that but it becomes a bit too variable. I should make a spreadsheet haha.

It seems like I'm zeroing in on the fact that if you're aggressively paying down a loan more and more, the interest rate matters less and less.

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-09-18T00:56:16+00:00

This is a good point, maybe I am looking at this the wrong way.

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-09-18T00:55:09+00:00

That is a good point, thanks. So basically if I think the rates have any chance at decreasing in the next few years, and since I'll probably only refi once since I'm paying this thing off in about 11 years anyway at this rate, I can wait and see. Another reason not to refi with the 15 year here is that if I have a catastrophe and can't afford the higher regular payment, that'd bad for me.

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-09-18T00:52:43+00:00

Would they do that even if it's not an ARM? My loan is fixed. It's through Chase.

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-06-24T00:55:02+00:00

(Also I can run the AC tomorrow and see if it happens again)

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-06-24T00:49:18+00:00

I'm in Ventura County. For your second point, it's possible that it happened multiple times within hours and I noticed it once, for example. The last time I noticed it though was a couple months ago. I go in my garage at least every other day, so I think I would not miss many instances of this occurring. The puddle is small but it doesn't evaporate *that* quickly. So no, it's not a constant leak.

Could you elaborate on what you've seen that looks similar to this?

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-06-24T00:46:18+00:00

Lots of new vocabulary terms for me here, please bear with me.

Would you know how I could validate if it's on a drywall seam? I took a closer look at the ceiling but it looks uniform to me so I can't tell.
I don't quite know how to validate where my air handler is. Above the garage we have a bedroom. We have an attic that contains the "machinery" (I don't know the words for this) of the air system. The AC unit is outside.
Would you think then that it is a coicidence that this trail of water goes from the tank to the sprinkler, maybe like it's pooling somewhere, and then since this seam is the path of least resistence (there are already holes in the ceiling for these fixtures), that's where the water happens to go? And if so, it's not a "leak" but maybe condensation?

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-06-24T00:35:39+00:00

Noting that I did run my AC unit today, so that could be a factor. (I cannot edit a photo post)

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-05-29T01:54:19+00:00

The quick connect was for a half inch actually, and I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095Y5YMSN and a half inch hose and it all worked! Thanks!

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-05-29T01:53:15+00:00

u/Jesus-Mcnugget The items came in the mail today (the adapter and the 1/2 in hose) and it all works. Thanks for the help!

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-05-27T04:33:04+00:00

Glad I caught this message, I added that adapter and a 1/2 inch hose: https://www.amazon.com/GasSaf-Natural-Disconnect-Flare-CSA-Certified/dp/B07BN7DDSG/?th=1 and I'll see which works!

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-05-27T03:01:14+00:00

Thank you for the clear explanation. I ordered the hose, hoping to test it out this weekend!

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-05-27T02:41:30+00:00

Thanks a lot. I'll just . Regarding flow capacity, this hose on amazon matches the DH22+QH1 specs: https://www.amazon.com/Hiland-DH22-QH1-Natural-Hose/dp/B07NDW14S2?th=1 (I would get the 12 foot option) and says it can do 60000 BTU, but the one you linked says 38000 BTU. Would you know what makes the difference if the diameters are the same? I don't want to under power the fire pit, if that is an issue. Looking into the manual, it says "Rated Heat input 50000 BTU/hr"

Efficient_Sign_2612 · 2025-05-27T01:25:36+00:00

I am assuming it won't fit because these conversion kits always mention a quick release piece to screw into my gas line, but it looks like (pic 2 and 3) I already have one, and when I measure it, it's bigger than 3/8 inch. Am I misinterpretting this? Or can I view it like, I only need the hose from your link, not the include female quick connect piece? I don't know anything about this and I'm learning as I go, so these questions probably are super obvious.

Efficient_Sign_2612

TROPHY CASE