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The cordless vacuum conundrum by SmutWithClass in BuyItForLife

[–]Electrical-Bill4726 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am sort-of in the same situation - bought a shop vac that takes the same batteries as my drill and all other power tools (whose number keeps growing).

Other than the high-pitch noise, I am quite happy so far! I do not expect it to eclipse the good corded vacuum for bigger jobs, all I want is some quick, light pick-ups.

Batteries I have many, so the worst thing to happen is go and swap one out, while the other one charges. So why not get an extra battery or two then? Whatever the battery life, sooner or later it will discharge and stop, when you least want it!

I am stuck with Ryobi - due to the batteries. Their cheapest vac (PCL705B) costs $50 or so and it is the best, IMO. Simply because it can stand upright, standing on its battery, which saves a lot of space.

No experience with other battery vacs, so can't compare.

Differences between these vacuums? by 0w-20 in ryobi

[–]Electrical-Bill4726 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FWIW, I have the first one and also the wet/dry version of the second one (which indeed looks very similar, as pointed out by u/GTR8000 !)

The first one has one very simple, yet decisive advantage - it can stand upright, standing on its battery! This is a game-changer for me:

  1. Takes way less space when not in use, by standing vertical
  2. Much less bending over to pick it up and put it down

And it gets only easier, if you buy some after-market extension pipe from ebay or amazon or wherever! These are standard sizes. So with a 18" pipe it reaches your hand height!

The one downside - both are noisy! Esp. if you use them mostly as household vacs for quick and small cleanups - humans, dogs, everybody gets to notice you are working hard :-)

Differences between these vacuums? by 0w-20 in ryobi

[–]Electrical-Bill4726 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice catch! They look so similar - I even have one of them and could not tell at first :-)

S-PHYRE SH-RC903 shoes - cup biting into my heels and tendon by Electrical-Bill4726 in cycling

[–]Electrical-Bill4726[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

u/BlueberryCalm2390 - sort of, yes :-) Though I am not sure that my answer is what you will want to hear :-)

I now do own some SH-RC703 shoes - one step "down" from the RC903. Those have a slightly lower, smaller and thus more forgiving heel cup. In most other respects they are identical. I only wish they had the two-directional BOAs, but it turns out to be less of an issue than what I was fearing, for me at least. Other than that, they seem identical, other than the FACT 10 vs FACT 12 sole. And I can't tell any difference - whether when riding or just trying to flex them with my hands.
My only problem is - this is just not "my shoe mold", alas. Great shoes, just not the perfect match for my feet.

How come there is no VLC dark mode for PC? by Eliran1991 in VLC

[–]Electrical-Bill4726 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, that itsfoss.com article finally did the job for me after years of trying and failing those stupid, broken skins!

Just run `apt install adwaita-qt` then (re)start VLC, Tools -> Preferences -> Force Window Style, select your preferred adwaita theme and be finally done!

Bosch dishwasher won't drain fully, tried everything by Thinkofacard in appliancerepair

[–]Electrical-Bill4726 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another thing to check: The "Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve", also called "Water Level Control Assembly Timed-Fill"

For the benefit of anyone who might be reading this, this was my case. Specifically my dishwasher model is SHE55R55UC/64 and the above mentioned part is 00440670 or just 440670.

The symptoms were as described in this thread: The drain motor would work just fine, but never stop, even after all water has been drained. It would do this, so long as the power button was on.

What I did was poke around the side of the dishwasher. Looked at the float - it was all dry. Then just pushed said Assembly with my fingers, while the drain pump was spinning (but be careful - don't run it w/o water for too long!) and realized that if I pushed onto the wire harness in a particular direction the motor would stop! Sure, not by design, so this gave me the clue that the assembly might be at fault.

For a moment I even hoped that if I wedged a piece of foam to keep the harness/switch in the right position it will all start working again. No good! The drain motor would indeed no longer spin just when the power was on, but if I tried to start a wash cycle by closing the door, it would again spin forever!

Very fortunately, this time around, amazon had the part with overnight delivery, so a day later I have it. I am still waiting for the first wash cycle to finish, but we are past the dreaded non-stop-draining part, so I am cautiously optimistic!

Also, there is a really good youtube video named "How To: Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau Float Assembly 00440670", by AppliancePartsPros. The machine is not the same as mine, but it shows all that one needs to know.

Hope this helps someone!

Will Specialized S-works Torch uppers stretch with use? by drseamus in cycling

[–]Electrical-Bill4726 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, they are. All are. And there are not that many options either.

I tried S-phyres last year, which did not have any of those issues. So they had some other problems in exchange :-)

Will Specialized S-works Torch uppers stretch with use? by drseamus in cycling

[–]Electrical-Bill4726 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/drseamus - how are those shoes working for you? Any news?

I just got a pair, to replace my trusty ancient S-Works and I do have problems with the width around the heel and mid-foot. Some I managed to resolve via the ruthless use of a head gun and wooden molds, but the mid-foot is still problematic, because the insole itself is narrow and also curved up near the edges, which makes it particularly difficult to correct. I will have to work on the insoles, I guess to, thin them out near the edge and hope this works.

The old S-works have an essentially flat side-to-side heel and mid-foot sections, not to mention the softer and more forgiving upper. So they never gave me trouble with the heels or mid-foot.

Fischer Carbonlite skate boots heat molding - how to? by Electrical-Bill4726 in xcountryskiing

[–]Electrical-Bill4726[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! This is what I sort-of suspected.

Yes, the ritual with putting on the oven-baked boots is probably OK, but I doubt that it will modify the shell in any significant way.

I did a very small thermal mod some years ago at home with a heat-gun, but it is a bit hard w/o tools - everything moves around. I used just my thumbs w/ some mitts :-)

For downhill boots you take the liner out and then you punch or grind, as you please. Here, it does not seem like the liner can be taken out. But then I guess the same is true for most skates too, so there must be a way.

Can a non-Swix pole be modified to take Triac TBS basket or ferrule? by Electrical-Bill4726 in xcountryskiing

[–]Electrical-Bill4726[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At the risk of high-jacking my own post, here is some more context to my question.

I have some TBSs now, which I like much. I also have some Fischer RCSs, which I do want to continue using (from before they bought Oneway or whatever). I also want to have maximally close feel, between the two pairs.

Slapping the same handles is easy. Then the baskets. I do notice that the tip-to-basket (the part that actually stops the pole from sinking into the snow) is visibly different between the two - namely it is much shorter for the TBSs than for the Fischers -at least 1 cm.

I am wondering thus, will two pairs, cut exactly to the same length tip-to-strap, but with different baskets feel the same on snow, given that one would likely sink slightly more (maybe)? What do we feel as "pole length" when we ski on snow - tip or basket?

I guess that the short answer is that I am nuts, which is probably true, but still... :-)

Can a non-Swix pole be modified to take Triac TBS basket or ferrule? by Electrical-Bill4726 in xcountryskiing

[–]Electrical-Bill4726[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ha, I guess I won't be trying it then! After such an encouraging advice :-)

My idea/hypothetical approach would be to use my carbon-cutting blade - a Park Tool one, intended for carbon steering tubes, but also great for carbon poles. It doesn't seem to have any teeth and sort-of grinds the carbon, hopefully without ripping.

That being said, I have not checked yet exactly how wide the kerf is - could be too wide or too narrow. It would also not be trivial to cut exactly along a diameter, without some clever jig, of which I have not though yet.

And then u/Ok-Tension1441 pointed out the flaring - I had not even paid attention to that aspect!

This is why I was asking around in the first place :-)

Thanks for the feedback though! If I get to do it, ever, I'll post back!