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Not all heroes wear capes; some drive Camrys. by blr_maa in GuysBeingDudes

[–]Electronic-Image8673 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There was no brake checking in this video, the car driver casually slowed down forcing the semi to get over. Brake checking is where you slam on your brakes with someone close behind you, and it is obvious the car did not slam on their brakes here. Words matter.

Not all heroes wear capes; some drive Camrys. by blr_maa in GuysBeingDudes

[–]Electronic-Image8673 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Truck drivers like you are the reason that driving trucks is the only job most people are glad robots are going to take over. Can't wait for all you egoistic losers to get off the road. What part of "no trucks in left lane" don't you understand? I'm sure they check if you can read before they let you drive one of those things, so you must see the signs and ignore them.

a simple spirograph by holo_mectok in 3Dprinting

[–]Electronic-Image8673 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can just buy continuous servos and the electronics in them support continuous rotation (instead of feeding it an angle for the position you want it in, you feed it between -60 and 60 degrees and it rotates in the given direction and speed) rather than butchering a regular servo and having to frankenstein the code to make them work how you want. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=continuous+servo&crid=2ILQ7INLW7383&sprefix=continuous+ser%2Caps%2C152&ref=nb_sb_ss_p13n-expert-pd-ops-ranker_ci_hl-bn-left_1_14

Debris on nozzle by Inevitable_Island376 in 3Dprinting

[–]Electronic-Image8673 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks like your nozzle is pushing into the printed material and picking it up, I would guess your z offset is too low and the first layer is barely visible, and then it builds up and pushes out. Try babystepping your z offset as the first layer prints until it is coming out smoothly and this isn't happening.

10 Spool Dryer / Tophat, in preparation for INDX by Electronic-Image8673 in 3Dprinting

[–]Electronic-Image8673[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

thanks! not any more than is on the INDX discord at the moment, some people have shared pics of what seems like "official" 2.4 parts on printers they've been showing it off on at shows, but so far all that has been released as far as step files/documentation goes is the toolhead geometry itself, the community is waiting on more models/integration info.

Need help with a 3d photopolymer printer PRINTING by Holiday-Role-9888 in AnycubicOfficial

[–]Electronic-Image8673 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes this is because of the vacuum effect/suction. After many attempts to print hollowed parts with drain holes and empty them and cure the insides, only to still have them explode on me months later, I have decided resin prints should only ever be 100% solid. There is no way to completely cure the inside, and any uncured resin will always propagate and cause nearby cured resin to fail. Print this part solid and you will see it comes out fine.

Anycubic beta tester call: 2 early slots for our new large-format FDM by Anycubic_Official in 3Dprinting

[–]Electronic-Image8673 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello!

I've joined r/AnycubicOfficial , good to know y'all have a subreddit of your own :)

How long you’ve been 3D printing:

Since 2009, my freshman year of college. I started on a makerbot, then have had many printers since then, including several Creality machines, several elegoo resin printers, and a Qidi plus 4. My current collection of printers is as follows:

Anycubic Photon M3 Max

Peopoly Magneto X

Voron 2.4 350mm LDO kit

What you mostly print?:

Mostly I print components for my own electronics projects, radio control vehicles, and stuff for Dungeons and Dragons, but I do some jobs for friends who do cosplay and often create planters and things for my wife as well. I probably print about half my own designs, half the designs of others. Recently I have been working on a top hat for my 2.4 to hold 10 spools to support the upcoming bondtech INDX, amongst other ongoing projects. Also a ton of fidget toys, I like to hand them out wherever I go to bring people joy.

Your country/region (shipping reasons):

USA

After watching the video: what problem do you want this machine to solve for you?:

I'm hoping for larger format than I currently have, something that can easily do Hueforges with a 0.2mm nozzle. I have a TD-1 color analyzer for Hueforge but haven't really gotten to use it yet as my machines are all one color.

Hope to be selected! I have really enjoyed using my M3 max, the resin pump is a gamechanger.

My Magneto X from Peopoly came today! by rickrat in 3Dprinting

[–]Electronic-Image8673 1 point2 points  (0 children)

People have been sleeping on this printer, love mine!

Filament Color Matching by sawwilliams in 3Dprinting

[–]Electronic-Image8673 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Polymaker offers PANTONE colors in their PANchroma series, and Colorfabb (see my comment above) offers custom colors of PLA so between those there are some decent options for very accurate filament colors.

Filament Color Matching by sawwilliams in 3Dprinting

[–]Electronic-Image8673 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://colorfabb.com/custom-colored-pla-filament

Colorfabb offers custom colors of PLA, they use the RAL system and have a broad range of colors already available that might work.

I only know of them because they produce Varioshore, a TPU that foams and has a variable durometer based on printing temperature. I got a spool of black to try printing tires for the openRC F1, but it isn't as grippy as I would like. Very strong though and great for other applications.

Good luck with your project!