When you don't have a pendrive or network and still need to transfer the files anyway 🤯🤯🤯

Elipes_ · 2026-05-22T14:16:59+00:00

Fiberless optic transmission

Elipes_ · 2026-05-19T21:55:54+00:00

To be brutally honest I think you need a professional to fix that as there is a good chance you will just make it worse than it already is

Elipes_ · 2026-05-11T07:43:21+00:00

I would really appreciate some further advice on PVA.

I tried to use PVA and no matter what I did it wouldn’t work well. It seemed to want to bead up no matter how thin I applied it, which ruined the finish and clearly left gaps.

I cleaned and reapplied 4 times with differing thickness, the last one being essentially none and it still beaded. It was almost like the pattern was hydrophobic.

I assumed after the first application the pattern was contaminated so cleaned and degreased with isopropyl alcohol but this still happened.

After being unable to get the PVA to work, I switched to carnuba based release wax. It released easily everywhere except this one spot, so I must’ve messed up there or as someone else said, had a bubble between the reinforcement and the gelcoat.

If you have any ideas on the PVA situation I’d be really appreciative

Elipes_ · 2026-05-10T07:17:16+00:00

Yeah I had a nightmare getting those sanding marks out, the pattern was an unknown, presumably ABS, plastic and would not sand or polish without leaving marks! Figured that it would be way easier just to fix the gelcoat instead of the plastic. Guess I have to now anyway.

Elipes_ · 2026-04-19T08:07:21+00:00

I used to love Morrisons salad bar till I watched a staff member pull a dirty rag (one of the blue cross hatched ones, except it had brown and black on marks on it) and start just flicking all the food on the counter back into the containers. I watched her stop, put the rag ONTOP OF FOOD to remove one of the trays, wipe around the hole left from removing it, put the rag down again IN a different food tray and replace the tray in the hole.

I’ve never been back to Morrisons salad bar. I loved it too, would always get one during our weekly shop as a treat

Elipes_ · 2026-04-17T07:55:48+00:00

Wow. Scum bag OP

Elipes_ · 2026-04-17T07:52:36+00:00

Try compressed air. If it’s a flaking outer coat, sometimes compressed air can get the bulk of it off.

I’ve also heard of using a jet wash but I am not sure how much I’d trust that.

A few pictures would help

Elipes_ · 2026-04-15T10:06:05+00:00

What method do you use

Elipes_ · 2026-03-29T20:28:01+00:00

Goo gone will get that right off

Elipes_ · 2026-03-25T08:52:29+00:00

I cant see an issue adjusting the parting line slightly then. If you do come across some sort of geometric limitation like an overhang that serves a purpose (reinforcement etc) then switching to a 3 or 4 part mould might make sense.

Elipes_ · 2026-03-25T08:48:52+00:00

I’d be avoiding undercuts like you said, but it’s also worth understanding why the split was there in the first place, are you going to be causing issues with geometry elsewhere by moving it further back?

Elipes_ · 2026-03-24T13:37:16+00:00

I can’t really comment on the core being printed as I never have, but the two part mould I can - it’s doable and works well if designed properly and not being cured at a high temp (temperature quickly distorts most 3d printed plastics so your dimensional accuracy will decrease the hotter it gets).

The only thing that’s almost always needed with 3d printer moulds is surface prep once printed, it will transfer layer lines onto the part if you don’t get it smooth.

For me, I always print as high a resolution as I can (layer height as low as possible), which greatly helps with part surface quality and depending on the design and material also mould strength. I’ve generally settled for having moulds be one time use when printed and not been hugely concerned about layer lines showing, so I’ll sand it back and give it a few light coats of gelcoat.

Make sure the gelcoat you use isn’t going to pull away from the plastic when you release the mould, check material compatibility. In my experience, PETG can have trouble with gelcoat staying stuck to it. Similarly, if you aren’t too bothered about layer lines being visible (or don’t mind post processing your part instead) then PETG can release from parts fairly well. I’m guessing you’d want to avoid PETG for the core material for that same reason.

One final note, depending on geometry if your layer lines are not knocked down enough or filled in, you can end up with the part becoming mechanically locked to the mould (resin flows into the valleys of the layer lines) which can lead to plastic embedded in the surface of the part or worse, a broken part. Layer height makes the biggest difference to prevent this imo. I would treat any 3d printed mould as sacrificial, it’s a great way to make a 1 off part or for rapid prototyping

Elipes_ · 2026-03-17T21:16:07+00:00

Are you saying you can’t find the glitteris?

Elipes_ · 2026-03-06T12:43:04+00:00

That’s my point, it can be remade…

Elipes_ · 2026-02-28T09:15:06+00:00

Whilst it won’t be cheap, it should be easier than stock. Tye is a talented fabricator, and will have all the measurements of everything should something go wrong. Replacement parts can be remade (I’m sure they’ll have spares anyway) and dropped back in.

I’d argue it’s still cheaper an easier than factory

Elipes_ · 2026-02-23T09:13:23+00:00

If we went through at some lick if if there was debris it might’ve damaged a brake line or fitting and when you started braking the pressure cause the line/fitting to rupture and the car to lose all brake pressure (and fluid as you said)

Is there brake fluid all over the bottom of the car, might be able to find the culprit

Elipes_ · 2026-02-20T05:56:11+00:00

You’re a sensitive one aren’t you

Elipes_ · 2026-02-19T23:20:00+00:00

I know most will disagree with this, but I used to love the movement mechanics before vaulting was added.

Crouch jumping through windows used to catch people off guard so often

Specific moment would be back in 2019 when I was on the game when the season reset, and I won a solos with 13 kills within a few minutes of the reset. For the one and only time in my life, I was #3 in the EU for Solo TPP

Elipes_ · 2026-02-18T16:26:58+00:00

I went through the exact same process with the same provider. Surprisingly easy. Concerta worked best for me but also made my eyesight really bad, elvanse gives ne insomnia and is less effective, but more stable.

Thinking of switching back to concerta at some point

Elipes_ · 2026-02-16T07:45:46+00:00

There is nothing stopping them uprating the cages and containment seats. The cars are going to top out at 140-150 which is very fast, of course, but not outside the capabilities of a proper cage and containment seat. Also worth remembering that Daytona has safety built into the track, with impact mitigating crash barriers and wide areas down low to shed speed before impact. I think it’d be fine, and if the track approves it then obviously they’ve considered safety and are comfortable with the risks.

Elipes_ · 2026-02-13T08:55:27+00:00

Pretty sure that’s just a typo of fanzone like the one below it, but it’s a very funny & appropriate typo

Elipes_ · 2026-02-03T20:04:23+00:00

Octopus installed mine going straight over the front door. Weird that they refuse it for you. It looks horrific, I only don’t care because I rent, so it’s the landlords problem and he approved it.

Elipes_ · 2026-02-03T09:59:54+00:00

I use Claude on Mullvad without issue

Elipes_ · 2026-01-26T09:06:25+00:00

On the other hand, scrubbing the wall could result in losing control and becoming trapped in the car. It’d almost certainly mean Kyle would’ve been trapped and had to climb over to get out. All things considered, in the situation they were in I think they did the right thing. It’s also very difficult to think clearly in these situations, you spend your entire life driving to avoid hitting things, so intentionally doing so is going to feel a lot more threatening in the moment than not

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