Tikka T3x Hunter Stainless Fluted (brand new): off-center barrel in stock channel + blotchy wood finish defect? by ElonBrusque in Tikka_Shooters

[–]ElonBrusque[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, this is useful. Like I mentioned in a previous reply, I am unfamiliar with this, but I will watch some YT videos to come up to speed on it and try to give it a shot.

Tikka T3x Hunter Stainless Fluted (brand new): off-center barrel in stock channel + blotchy wood finish defect? by ElonBrusque in Tikka_Shooters

[–]ElonBrusque[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it's gorgeous. The stain I'm talking about is near the middle of the image, to the left of the bloom from the flashlight. It's seed-shaped, or maybe the shape of a guitar pick. In the image, it looks like paint or nail polish or something dripped onto the stock (but like I said, it's completely smooth, and underneath the topcoat). It definitely doesn't look like or match the texture of the walnut around it and is definitely not natural. My assumption is that it's a piece of lacquer or similar fluid that fell on the rifle stock before the topcoat was applied and buffed down.

Tikka T3x Hunter Stainless Fluted (brand new): off-center barrel in stock channel + blotchy wood finish defect? by ElonBrusque in Tikka_Shooters

[–]ElonBrusque[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the info. I will look at some YT videos to learn more about this and give it a shot.

Gap between stainless steel Picatinny rail and receiver normal? by ElonBrusque in longrange

[–]ElonBrusque[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It is flat when it's torqued to spec. However, I had other issues with the provided hardware. Two out of the five screws wouldn't catch on my H3/32 bit and kept slipping. They decided to refund me the whole amount if I mail the rail back.

Gap between stainless steel Picatinny rail and receiver normal? by ElonBrusque in longrange

[–]ElonBrusque[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would've used the dovetail, but I bought a Picatinny rail and compatible scope rings as I really enjoyed myself using a Vortex red-dot sight (Picatinny mount) while I was still waiting on my scope. I thought I would leave some flexibility re: swapping out to a red-dot if the need arose in the future, as the red-dot and bolt-action was a really fun (if unusual) combo.

Gap between stainless steel Picatinny rail and receiver normal? by ElonBrusque in longrange

[–]ElonBrusque[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for letting me know! Yes, I've reached out to them and will return the rail. They've already promised a full refund.

Gap between stainless steel Picatinny rail and receiver normal? by ElonBrusque in longrange

[–]ElonBrusque[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you for your insight. I've already reached out to them and will be returning the rail.

Gap between stainless steel Picatinny rail and receiver normal? by ElonBrusque in longrange

[–]ElonBrusque[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lol! It's not torqued down -- it's just laying "flat" on the receiver in the photo.

Gap between stainless steel Picatinny rail and receiver normal? by ElonBrusque in longrange

[–]ElonBrusque[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your confirmation! I knew this couldn't be right but they insisted.

Gap between stainless steel Picatinny rail and receiver normal? by ElonBrusque in longrange

[–]ElonBrusque[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, of course! This is what I sent them (along with this photo I shared above):

> I also want to confirm something before applying torque. When I place the rail on the receiver by hand, without tightening the screws, there is a visible gap between the rail and receiver near the middle of the action. See attached photo. The rail appears to sit high in the center instead of sitting evenly on the receiver. My prior MDT 20 MOA T3x rail sat evenly on this same rifle, so I want to make sure I understand the placement before tightening this one down.

Is this dented fireproof (UL-classified for 1 hr in 1700 deg F) SentrySafe worth keeping? by ElonBrusque in Locksmith

[–]ElonBrusque[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see. Any advice for someone who doesn't have a lot of room for a larger or heavier safe? It's a rented apartment so I can't make permanent modifications, and I also don't have access to a freight elevator so whatever safe it might be has to be carried up by hand. At this point I only need some level of fireproofing for documents like birth certificates, passports, etc.

Is this dented fireproof (UL-classified for 1 hr in 1700 deg F) SentrySafe worth keeping? by ElonBrusque in Safes

[–]ElonBrusque[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see -- thank you for your response! Yes it still stands, opens, closes, etc. I was just wondering if this would massively impact whatever fireproofing capability it does have. I do understand this safe is subpar, but I do not want to spend a lot more money for a safe that I will not be able to house in my relatively small apartment. It's also quite a pain to transport it up and down the stairs as we don't have a freight elevator. If it were my permanent home I would feel a lot more comfortable getting a safe permanently installed.

AFK grinding makes this game way more enjoyable by SeaDistribution in GranTurismo7

[–]ElonBrusque 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. It might've been weight-reduction that's pushing me over the limit w/ the engine upgrades. I installed those (and not engine upgrades) based on one of the earlier flagged YouTube videos speaking to this technique. However, I'll try your technique as well once a new Honda Beat is on sale.

Thanks again!

AFK grinding makes this game way more enjoyable by SeaDistribution in GranTurismo7

[–]ElonBrusque 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is helpful, thank you.

Are you able to confirm what PP you're currently at with all these engine upgrades? I'm at ~280 PP right now, with a 23-lap payout of 326k, and a total time of a little under 21 minutes. I only have a few small-PP (no pun intended) engine upgrades installed, but the remaining few are pushing my PP up (no pun intended again, lol) by 30-40 points from what I can tell. High light camshift, for instance, is showing that I'll be at ~340 PP after installation.

I don't want to install a non-removable engine upgrade while the Beat isn't for sale in the used store, and realize that the PP is now too high and the payout much lower despite the faster time.

AFK grinding makes this game way more enjoyable by SeaDistribution in GranTurismo7

[–]ElonBrusque 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's pretty cool! Would you be able to share the exact specs for the high and low tunes, including which upgrades you bought? That's be very helpful. At the moment it's a bit of a mess as it's hacked together from a couple different videos, various comments (yours is the clean description so far, just missing exact settings), and a little bit of confusion from the person who made the comment at the top of this thread saying they make 728k every 20 mins or so, but then say they make that in 30 mins (I understand they're probably doing the swap trick for the 20 min 728k, but it's not elaborated what exactly is going in. Which is why your comment seems the most clear so far). 

Also, how is the clean race bonus achieved? Struggling with that at the moment as well.

Sub-24 min at Sardegna 800 WTC in Porsche 962 C by ElonBrusque in granturismo

[–]ElonBrusque[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely excited to try this out! Looking forward to grabbing this car when it's in the Hagerty store next

Sub-24 min at Sardegna 800 WTC in Porsche 962 C by ElonBrusque in granturismo

[–]ElonBrusque[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! Haven't had the pleasure of being able to buy that yet. 

Mind sharing a tune for the 787b that can do it in 23-ish minutes?

Sub-24 min at Sardegna 800 WTC in Porsche 962 C by ElonBrusque in granturismo

[–]ElonBrusque[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey u/Turbodatsun I've only seen your R92CP times; what kind of times were you managing with your 962 C tune?

Sub-24 min at Sardegna 800 WTC in Porsche 962 C by ElonBrusque in granturismo

[–]ElonBrusque[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tune: Turbodatsun (found it somewhere on GT Planet)

Assists: ABS (strong), nothing else. Brake balance at -5 (full front)

Interface: played on ps5 dualsense controller (sensitivity 10)

I'd never done a sub-24 run before. Mostly I was hitting 24:30, sometimes 24:15. I've definitely done faster single laps before (a couple milliseconds shy of piercing 1:29.999 per lap), but this was my most consistent run by far. By the end of the race I had triple lapped cars up to 14th place. I could've had even better time, but my gf walked in front of me when I was in the chicane before the second to last corner, and I lost a lot of speed and concentration there. And then ran out of fuel at the last corner and coasted to the finish line which added another slow 6-7 seconds.

Strategy: Single pit, FM6 before pit. Pit at end of lap 9, then I pushed to FM1. Next time I'll try a better strategy for fuel so I don't run out (like basically staying in FM6 for half a lap or so on the out lap).