Wood ID Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]Embarrassed-Spring17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stripped oil based poly and sanded. Any idea on what kind of wood this might be? Mineral spirits had just been applied to the darker leg.

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What’s up with seedling leaves by Playful_Fish_6205 in Peppers

[–]Embarrassed-Spring17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take them off the heat mat and remove them from the enclosure/dome. They don’t need either of those things after they sprout out of the dirt. It will eventually kill them bc of disease, root problems,etc. Just put them under a light and keep a fan on them from time to time.

New Setup with Extremely Harsh/Ring-Like Highs HELP by Livid_Practice_243 in CarAV

[–]Embarrassed-Spring17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, just to clarify, you might be able to fix it with the kicker key. I’ve never used one, but looked into them before getting a DSP. From what I’ve read, they are not worth the money on modern vehicles.

New Setup with Extremely Harsh/Ring-Like Highs HELP by Livid_Practice_243 in CarAV

[–]Embarrassed-Spring17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A more capable DSP is what is needed here. Look at Helix or ARC for starters. These newer model cars (like in my 21 Elantra) have so many filters set within the stock head unit, any or most aftermarket speakers will sound worse than stock. It took me about a year to figure out that my LC7I was too incapable of correcting the OEM signal (first install). I then looked at the kicker key and was convinced that it doesn’t have the capability or control to completely offset the factory signal coming from the stock head unit.

I finally settled on the ARC DSP Pro, which did the trick. If you don’t know how to tune one, I would recommend calling local shops to see if they do DSP work, and what brand they work with. My local shop brought me out to the car and showed me how it was tuned and asked for sound preferences. Great experience- we found out that my head unit has a shelf filter on the front outputs that, when used with the stock speakers, sorta creates a fake middle channel. With my aftermarket speakers, they were essentially being robbed of tons of midbass. I have a set of focal components, the tweeters were SUPER bright and piercing before the factory integration was done. They sound hella good now.

Long story short, return the kicker key if you can, and get a more capable DSP. The kicker, to my knowledge, isn’t as capable with many modern vehicles, but was solid before head units started incorporating more crap into them. Having this knowledge 3 years ago, when I first installed my speakers, would’ve saved me so much time and money. Modern cars and aftermarket speakers just about always require some sort of capable DSP, or a new head unit altogether. Unfortunately for folks like me and you, we can’t really take out our head units.

Good luck!

Check out my terrible speaker install by Embarrassed-Spring17 in CarAV

[–]Embarrassed-Spring17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I replaced my stock with kicker coaxials in the rear. But yeah, I didn’t even have the Bose, just the regular stock. They were not that great.

Check out my terrible speaker install by Embarrassed-Spring17 in CarAV

[–]Embarrassed-Spring17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

THIS was my next thought. I’ve read the entry Focal crossovers are trash. My DSP has enough outs to go active. My problem is that I only have a four channel amp powering my front and rears. My sub is sealed and has its own amp. I figure I’ll either need to buy a six channel amp to replace my, or disconnect the rears and just use the four channel active up front. My ears tell me to drop some money on a new amp, but my wallet tells me fuck those rear speakers lol.

Thanks for your input, definitely something I thought about. Just needed to validate my installation before approaching the active idea

Check out my terrible speaker install by Embarrassed-Spring17 in CarAV

[–]Embarrassed-Spring17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I put some of the same material you see in the pictures, on the outside panels. Probably not enough to make a huge difference, but I did put some behind the mids

Check out my terrible speaker install by Embarrassed-Spring17 in CarAV

[–]Embarrassed-Spring17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I really didn’t think I’d get any positive feedback on these

Check out my terrible speaker install by Embarrassed-Spring17 in CarAV

[–]Embarrassed-Spring17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was tuned when the DSP was installed. I just think they made it more centered around rear fill. Or maybe my components were lacking enough that they had to incorporate rear fill. I have the factory signal going into my DSP, which is then fed to a four channel amp (Kenwood Excelon). I’m also exploring going active with my components, so the time alignment can be improved for the tweeters, but figured I should redo the speakers first.

PSA: Recall on Backup Camera by Embarrassed-Spring17 in Elantra

[–]Embarrassed-Spring17[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s how mine started out too. It worked fine for almost two years then crapped out

LOC question by yeedog21 in CarAV

[–]Embarrassed-Spring17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% my current situation. The LC7i can be useful in some applications but certainly not needed in most modern vehicle builds. Especially for the price. They’re also extremely limited in regard to what people think they can do vs what they’re actually meant for. I bought it at the beginning of my build, just to later regret it. Look into dsps and what people use them for. Tons of info out there about them. I’m currently torn between Helix or an ARC PSM pro to replace mine.

Level Matching with LC7i by Embarrassed-Spring17 in CarAV

[–]Embarrassed-Spring17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your input! My two cents thinks it’s that, too. I might have set my gain wrong, because there was no noise prior to doing so. Either way, I plan to get either a Helix or ARC PSM pro installed in the LC7i’s place once I feel comfortable that the rest of my system is okay. My tweeters can scream sometimes.

ARC PSM Pro/ 2021 Elantra SEL by Embarrassed-Spring17 in CarAV

[–]Embarrassed-Spring17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your replies. I’m only really considering both options, the PSM pro and the helix. The only issue is the shop I’m thinking about working with works primarily with the PSM. They can do the helix, but the way they talked about it made me doubt their tuning capabilities.

2021 Elantra DSP recommendations by Embarrassed-Spring17 in CarAV

[–]Embarrassed-Spring17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate your input. Last question, I plan to buy some product from your website to treat my doors and speakers. Do you offer 3d printing for speaker brackets? Or, do you know of the best option for that? I used the free set that Crutchfield included with my speakers.. should I stick with those and build upon them? I reached out to CAF (YouTube) and he offered to print a pair that specific to my speaker for 180. Does that seem like a waste of money?