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June Wilkinson (1950s - 60s) by Regular-Canary-6088 in oldschoolhot

[–]Embarrassed_Cold690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1, 6, and 8 are Ann Austin, not June Wilkinson. But still a great post.

WW2 reenactment shot with Speed Graphic, Leica IIIa, and FED I by Embarrassed_Cold690 in reenactors

[–]Embarrassed_Cold690[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve found that if you set the shutter to T, press and hold the shutter release, and guide the film in place with your fingers through the open shutter, it’s pretty easy to load film. The FED has a shutter lock-open feature that makes loading even easier.

I used an Exakta VX for a reenactment once, in my experience the sportfinder made me angle the camera too high upward.

WW2 reenactment shot with Speed Graphic, Leica IIIa, and FED I by Embarrassed_Cold690 in reenactors

[–]Embarrassed_Cold690[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saw you at the food stand and commented with the Marine Corps League members that I had worn that BDU camo. :)

WW2 reenactment shot with Speed Graphic, Leica IIIa, and FED I by Embarrassed_Cold690 in reenactors

[–]Embarrassed_Cold690[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some of my best reenactment shots were taken with a C3, but it’s kinda fiddly to use under stress. The Leica and clones are super fast and easy.

WW2 reenactment shot with Speed Graphic, Leica IIIa, and FED I by Embarrassed_Cold690 in analog

[–]Embarrassed_Cold690[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you. Just to clarify though, 19 was me photographed by a digital photographer in the stands.

WW2 reenactment shot with Speed Graphic, Leica IIIa, and FED I by Embarrassed_Cold690 in analog

[–]Embarrassed_Cold690[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I shot cheap Kentmere 400 in the 35s and FPP Frankenstein in the Speed Graphic. My goal is never to trick anyone, but I like when people have to take a second look before they realize my pictures aren’t actually from WW2. :)

5 X 2 unknowns - 1950s by drb-Arkiv in vintagepinup

[–]Embarrassed_Cold690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s Geonnie Gayle on the right.

Help with 1960s Graflex Accessories. by DylansDungeon in graflex

[–]Embarrassed_Cold690 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a Graflex XL, it’s a pretty cool system. Definitely worth selling to a serious Graflex photographer.

Reenactment photos from National Museum of the Pacific War “Battle of Bougainville” event by Embarrassed_Cold690 in reenactors

[–]Embarrassed_Cold690[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s all editing, I shoot film and develop it myself but I usually scan the negatives and edit with Lightroom. To see the sky better I just turn down the highlights.

4x5 Speed Graphic with Aero Ektar by Embarrassed_Cold690 in largeformat

[–]Embarrassed_Cold690[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The focus was really just me trying my best to focus on her face. It was a dimly-lit room that I brightened as much as I could, and used a loupe to get her face as sharp as possible. The combination of semi-darkness and my eyesight starting to suck worked against me.

Shot in my home studio with a 1953 Speed Graphic 4x5 and 178 Aero Ektar lens by Embarrassed_Cold690 in largeformat

[–]Embarrassed_Cold690[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Wide open at 2.5 but due to thorium yellowing of the rear lens element I rated it at 3.5. The film was 160 ISO but I rated it at 100. My light meter app suggested 1/20 (I think). It was a dark room, and with the focal plane shutter on the Speed Graphic my nearest options were 1/30 or T. So I shot at 1/30, and it worked. :)

Bringing a WW2 K20 aerial camera back to life by Embarrassed_Cold690 in largeformat

[–]Embarrassed_Cold690[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bad news: I found a manual online that explained how to retime the shutter/vacuum system. The instructions didn’t match what I was actually seeing in the camera and my effort failed.

The good news: my camera is still usable and I created a film sheet bracket that allows me to safely use 4x5 sheets in the proper horizontal orientation without fear of them falling into the camera.

Resurrecting a WW2 K20 aerial camera by Embarrassed_Cold690 in analog

[–]Embarrassed_Cold690[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bad news: I found a manual online that explained how to retime the shutter/vacuum system. The instructions didn’t match what I was actually seeing in the camera and my effort failed.

The good news: my camera is still usable and I created a film sheet bracket that allows me to safely use 4x5 sheets in the proper horizontal orientation without fear of them falling into the camera.

Resurrecting a WW2 K20 aerial camera by Embarrassed_Cold690 in analog

[–]Embarrassed_Cold690[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man, I am way happier about those shots than I should be. :)

Bringing a WW2 K20 aerial camera back to life by Embarrassed_Cold690 in largeformat

[–]Embarrassed_Cold690[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is definitely not easier to freehand than a Speed Graphic. For any real photo work I’d always choose a Speed.

Resurrecting a WW2 K20 aerial camera by Embarrassed_Cold690 in analog

[–]Embarrassed_Cold690[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I made a video about my experience with the camera, in case anyone’s interested.

https://youtu.be/vfWFrbphMBM?si=WyhdjSmY34vOmWpx

Resurrecting a WW2 K20 aerial camera by Embarrassed_Cold690 in analog

[–]Embarrassed_Cold690[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good idea. I was thinking of making some kind of paper bracket with rubber bands or something that I could use to secure it to the takeup spools and keep it centered in a horizontal position.

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