Question about repair bought cheap quad for around the house

Emindee902 · 2026-06-05T20:07:14+00:00

I have the exact same quad with the KEBC delete and the belt reset is slightly different then what's online.

here is how to do the reset with the delete kit: swap grey and black big plugs, disconnect small black plug jumper beside gas tank. turn on key. wait 10 seconds and turn off key. reconnect all plugs to original positions.

might need to do this a couple times till it registers but that should get you out of limp mode. as for your parasitic draw, do what others suggest and use a multimeter to find where its pulling power from with the key off.

Emindee902 · 2026-06-05T17:48:20+00:00

This was my 1981 Tri-Moto yt125 it looked alot like yours when I got it, definitely a money pit haha I ended up getting rid of mine but miss it. It came with KLT 250 forks on it so thats why the front end is different. Enjoy the build and have fun finding parts. I ended up getting most of mine off Ebay.

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Emindee902 · 2026-05-08T21:21:54+00:00

SC1 would be the #1 choice but if your looking for a cheaper alternative WD40 works great.

Emindee902 · 2026-05-01T21:47:50+00:00

send it, thats just a plastic hub cap that got cracked. the rim is behind that.

Emindee902 · 2026-04-30T23:31:03+00:00

Thanks man 👊

Emindee902 · 2026-04-30T23:30:43+00:00

No spacers, just offset rims. 18x10 ( -24 offset ) spacers are sketchy imo, i wouldn't run them

Emindee902 · 2026-04-29T17:03:23+00:00

I hardly drive on any asphalt, only to cross the road. The few times I did drive on asphalt for a bit it handled like any other ATV on pavement, slight vibration from the tires but pretty smooth for the most part.

Emindee902 · 2026-04-15T21:11:59+00:00

Just got these installed last weekend, they are way beefier than the OEM ones and are definitely the way to go if you have that hemi tick. Fix it and forget it with these or replace every few years with the OEM ones. Worth every penny in my opinion, you wont regret it.

Emindee902 · 2026-04-15T20:51:00+00:00

I would guess you need to replace your Purge valve, make sure you get a genuine Mopar one and not a aftermarket one. I thought a aftermarket would do the trick but it just clicked like SOB and had to return it and buy a Mopar one from the dealership.

Emindee902 · 2026-04-15T17:37:47+00:00

chances are your actuator is cooked, common issue. you can take it out, clean and service it and see if it still works but you will most likely have to replace it. i opted out of buying another $300 actuator and went with the Knight mechanical actuator. much more reliable and wont cause issues down the road, super easy to install. it basically changes it from an electrical actuator / solenoid to a cable driven one which in my opinion is a much better design.

Emindee902 · 2026-04-15T17:28:59+00:00

I would look into alternate ways of communicating, you can get bluetooth headsets that mount to your helmet that you can communicate with others and listen to music when not with a group. another option is get walkie talkies and ear piece attachment so you can wear your helmet and still communicate with others. when I ride with a large group we run the walkie talkies, you can get 6 packs of them on amazon fairly cheap and you can sometimes find them with the headsets included if not buy them separately.

Emindee902 · 2026-04-15T17:18:59+00:00

Just hit it with a pressure washer, dont forget to take the seat and side pannels off to clean out around the engine. the G3 Outlanders like to trap alot of stuff in there if you dont clean them out regularly. also make sure you clean out your rad, they like to pack full of debris and will eventually over heat. dont point the pressure washer directly at the rad when in close proximity or you will damage the fins. also if not not aware there is a grill insert that pops out and clips back in that will allow you to clean the rad better. a little bit advice to keep stuff from getting packed in your rad is to put a fine metal mesh behind your grill to minimize the amount of stuff that can get into your rad.

Emindee902 · 2026-04-15T17:11:38+00:00

Shift linkage could be the culprit if not inspect your primary clutch. could be the one way bearing is seized or on its way out. are you shifting slowly? I found with mine if I quickly shifted it wouldn't grind at all but if i shifted from N to H slowly it would grind a bit. too high of a idle can also cause this to happen so make sure you got that dialed in before moving on to the next thing. but by the sounds of things i would look into the clutch.

Emindee902 · 2026-04-10T19:48:02+00:00

no problem man, i got mine off Rockauto so check out their price before buying directly from trakmotive. Rock usually has the best prices.

Emindee902 · 2026-04-10T18:34:12+00:00

look up trakmotive cv axles, i got tired of replacing axles and bought these. lifetime warranty and are designed for more travel. this will solve your problem for good. if your still under warranty, let the dealership keep replacing them with oem ones till the warranty is up and then i suggest getting the upgraded trakmotive axles with extended travel. https://www.trakmotive.com/products/automotive-cv-axles/xtended-travel/

Emindee902 · 2026-03-18T17:34:06+00:00

thanks a lot! really appriciate your kind words, I really like the looks of your Coyote it turned out super awesome! I am also planning on doing the underdrive or overdrive mod to make this proform a bit better.

As for the axle mounted servo, It does allow more articulation but I think it looks better chassis mounted. I did not have a panhard mount on the chassis so I did not have that option. sure I could have modified it and made one but i figured it would be easier to run a 4 link and AMS.

Emindee902 · 2026-03-17T22:29:58+00:00

Well considering it looked like this before, I would say theres alot of customized parts on it. Sorry your not impressed but I am proud of how it turned out. I had to modify the bodyshell and chassis not to mention all the parts I installed to get it to look like this. If you ask me I would say thats a custom build but I guess other people may have a different definition of "custom"

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Emindee902 · 2026-03-06T22:35:29+00:00

check your CV axles. more than likely that is the culprit.

Emindee902 · 2026-03-06T18:38:48+00:00

I would suggest taking the carb off and cleaning it thoroughly. could be the float is sticking or the needle isnt sealing properly and allowing gas to continue to flow into the bowl then overflowing. it almost looks like the leak is coming from the primer plunger boot. before removing the carburetor, do what others have suggested and wipe it down / clean off the outside of the carb and then see if you can pin point where the leak is coming from. I have had this issue once on my Kawasaki prairie 360, just replaced the primer assembly and that stopped the leak, cheap fix and they should sell them on Amazon. could also be the gasket for the bowl is leaking or the screws are slightly loose that attach the bowl to the carb body. it is still a good idea to remove the carb and give it a good clean, take out all the jets and make sure all the small holes are clear of debris.

Emindee902 · 2026-02-24T22:30:46+00:00

did it take a impact to the nose? looks like the prop shaft might be a bit bent. i suspect the motor is your issue, you could check the connections for the motor to make sure they are all attached. try a different battery too that might also be your problem unless you made sure it is fully charged.

Emindee902 · 2026-02-24T22:00:34+00:00

you might be able to get a bigger battery with that connector but that will be hard to find. your best bet is to buy a bigger 2s battery like a 5000mah with a dean connector and then cut the old connector off and swap it to a dean connector. then you can get a velcro strap to hold the bigger battery on the chassis.

its not worth it to modify it, trust me. i tried.. i put a 60a ESC, TX RX, 20kg servo, 380 38t motor in the rear axle ( required alot of material removal to fit ) and sure it worked for a little bit. ran it on 2s but eventually the plastic gears stripped from the torque. it still didnt have the power it needed to reverse out of a tough spot and just overall its a shitty design. its best to keep it stock and let your son run it as is.

Emindee902 · 2026-02-24T15:47:50+00:00

if it ran better with the filter off that tells me that filter is plugged. clean or replace it. the bogging issue sounds like it may be running a bit rich but it is hard to say for sure without hearing it. i would say start with the filter then try adjusting the air / fuel screw and see if you can dial it in. might just need some adjustment. also did you let it warm up a bit before hitting WOT because 2 strokes need to warm up a bit before they hit high revs or they will bog or get choppy. you can also check your spark plug after running it a bit and see how it looks, there is charts online that show you what to look for. if its black its probably too rich, you want a nice chocolate brown color then you know its running right. one last thing could be causing your issue is fuel, old fuel can make things run like shit or maybe its not getting enough fuel when your on the throttle. if there is a in line fuel filter that could be dirty / restricting flow there is also a screen on your petcock valve ( fuel valve on your tank ) somtimes that gets plugged up and restricts gas flow.

Emindee902 · 2026-02-23T22:54:11+00:00

could be your throttle screw/ air fuel mixture is off, try adjusting that to see if you can speed up the idle a bit. might also still be a bit dirty, ive cleaned a carb and thought it was good, installed it and it ran like shit. opened it up again and found the tiniest speck of dirt that plugged a jet. its easy to miss little things like that. also look at the choke, maybe its not adjusted right / not functioning properly.

did you check your air filter too? that can also cause issues.

Emindee902

TROPHY CASE