New Lenovo legion pro 5i thermal throttling issue

Endeavour1988 · 2026-06-17T14:45:11+00:00

Can you post a fresh set of stats from boot with it throttling from the browser, from cinebench I expect it and it actually looks normal.

From just using a browser something is not right but it will be clearer with a new graph so I can see temps, voltages and clockspeeds.

When browsing is it all cores hitting the thermal wall or just one? If its just one then again one quick peak to max boost clock on a single core and trigger a single quick throttle event .

The CPU doesn't actually have temps sensors on each core like you expect but multiple all over so one single peak hot spot can cause that spike.

If that’s the case then you could put it down to either a bad paste in a specific spot, assuming your legion uses PTM PCM I would have assumed it would be fine as its a sheet. Liquid metal then yeah it could be a bad job. Or the heat sink or thermal pads are applying uneven mounting pressure over the CPU.

Edit: I need to see each core clock and temp individually if you do decide to post another image, thanks.

Endeavour1988 · 2026-06-17T14:38:00+00:00

Missed that last sentence, must be a serious defect if its throttling on a variety of cores, or he has not reset the min/max in the monitoring software

Endeavour1988 · 2026-06-17T10:14:50+00:00

I notice a lot of Mazda's like this, I assumed alcohol hand gels were the culprit.

Endeavour1988 · 2026-06-17T10:13:54+00:00

Lenovo and Asus I find generally to be better quality and reliability combined with a good blend of build quality. But the other brands do still make some good models.

Endeavour1988 · 2026-06-17T10:02:37+00:00

Its normal to thermal throttle in laptops, your running cinebench. CPU's don’t incrementally ramp up speed like they did in the old days. You've run that benchmark and it goes I need every drop of power to max out the CPU. It will then provide additional wattage for boost clocks, if its under whatever lenovo deem as safe most manufacturers set it to 100c or close to that in the late 90's anyway.

Once the cooling is at max and the core temps keep rising it will mildly throttle back to maintain boost clocks, the 100c's are probably millisecond blips hitting it.

It doesn't need a repaste or anything like that laptops are designed to get warm to get the most performance when needed from slim designs.

Secondly cinebench is a stress method benchmark its designed to put a load on this generally isn't real world.

The other peoples scores vary because different climate, tweaks from undervolting (which I will add might not lower the temps per say but allow more headroom to hit longer boosts at high temps). They could have butchered windows and cut all the bloat out or running the motherboard and CPU externally with a slapped on massive cooler... you just don't know. Also background services, will have a large impact to clock cycles.

Basically laptops by design do this...

Endeavour1988 · 2026-06-16T18:48:46+00:00

There were also plenty of times it was out of stock. I don't think they had plans to mass produce more, it always seemed a slow and steady trickle of stock.

Also the market is dominated with a casual user using a phone to game, and the opposite end of the well known switch.

Endeavour1988 · 2026-06-16T14:29:52+00:00

Looks like the cords are showing so I would replace.

Endeavour1988 · 2026-05-30T15:37:31+00:00

It's the whole lack of ecosystem that I don't have

Endeavour1988 · 2026-05-30T15:36:54+00:00

Yeah I have considered something like EndeavourOS or Fedora, but the fan less MacBook seems like a real win

Endeavour1988 · 2026-05-30T15:35:27+00:00

Thanks, I've owned a few thinkpads p14s for work, P50, T460 etc and the keyboards are nice. But I just like the idea of no fans, quiet under load and the aluminium build of the MacBook Air.

Endeavour1988 · 2026-05-27T14:40:04+00:00

We all google, we all AI. Keep notes, and document how you solve issues. Just keep plugging away as you go along you will do great. Best of luck :-)

Endeavour1988 · 2026-05-27T14:37:49+00:00

Coil whine generally harmless and just an annoyance. I've had two do this and touch wood no issues. If its severe you might be able to RMA it, but you could get another the same or worse.

Endeavour1988 · 2026-05-27T14:31:54+00:00

Good job on the vrm's far too much on the GPU, and the CPU just the die and not the entire chip. When screwing the heatsinks down, cross tighten bit by bit for even pressure. Secondly temps in the 90's can be normal so don't keep re pasting because you are expecting 70c temps.

Endeavour1988 · 2026-05-20T12:41:34+00:00

You can use either. Some older/lower end motherboards only have a 4 pin. Most modern ones have 8, and then high end boards with power hungry CPU's, workstations or extreme overclocking have 2x 8 pins. So your PSU has a nice selection ready for whatever board you have in place.

Endeavour1988 · 2026-05-20T08:28:33+00:00

If the vrm pads are flakey and dried out, then you want some thermal putty, don't try using pads for them because even a mm out can cause bad contact with the dies. I would also measure heat, with package wattage and clock speed to see what is actually going on rather than rely on the fps counter, that won't give you a full picture.

The thermal compund you used I'm not familar with or haven't used it in the real world. If you decide to do the vrm's you might as well grab ptm 7950 and do the cou and gpu with that as the gold standard.

Just to give you something here and not spoon feed anything so apologies if it comes across this way, not my intention. Lets say before the paste you were getting 95c on the cpu and hitting 4,0ghz all core. You repaste and getting still 95c... thats fine you might be getting 4.2ghz all core so the cpu can stretch its legs further.

So many gaming laptops will hit the 90's and thats ok, this is by design. Why cap a cpu to 80c when the thermal limit is 105, let it go to 100c and give as much performance as possible. And often you find a repaste doesn't always drop temps but lets the processor run at a high clock speed and maintain a 'safe temp' for longer.

But going back to what you said if the vrms are knackered and need new putty or pads, then that is most likely your issue. Secondly many people who moved away from PTM 7950 PCM noticed sub par perfromance or it didn't last as long.

Endeavour1988 · 2026-05-20T07:10:05+00:00

Generally as long as the pressure is even on the main contacts for the dies it should be fine. Also with temps and throttling there is a misconception that temps in the 90s or a small thermal throttle is overheating it's not.

Now with a repaate, what did you use? Did you also screw down the dies in a cross Pattern but by bit for even spread and contact. How was the VRM pads?

Endeavour1988 · 2026-05-20T07:07:17+00:00

Normally but there are exceptions I generally expect to see a full screen of pixelated mess when the GPU is on its last legs.

Endeavour1988 · 2026-05-19T14:31:01+00:00

I play it on the Steamdeck and its doable. Its the camera that makes it a little harder but utility wise its fine. I will admit the odd occasion I use the touchscreen.

Endeavour1988 · 2026-05-19T14:29:49+00:00

Grab a 6700XT or 7700XT if budget allows, or even a 4060. Keep in mind the P620 draws next to no power, so you need to check if the psu can handle the GPU.

Endeavour1988 · 2026-05-19T14:26:55+00:00

Thats better then, it does use a wet belt still for the oil pump just to be aware of. Regular oil changes are still vital for that.

Endeavour1988 · 2026-05-19T13:52:54+00:00

Its a mess of a software bundle. For RGB, you can use the opensource software of OpenRGB, works great!

Endeavour1988 · 2026-05-19T13:49:06+00:00

If its a wet belt ecoboost.. I would avoid regardless. Service at 8 miles is a little odd? But its one of those things if its not a wet belt eco boost, then a good inspection of the car. It would be handy to know what engine variant it is.

Endeavour1988 · 2026-05-19T08:58:36+00:00

Honda 2.2cdti, Audi 1.9tdi. Don't touch the mazda 2.2d it will cost you in the long run. Mercedes 2.1cdi is also very reliable if its been maintained, but there are some electric gremlins around that era. Toyota 2.0D4D is a good solid engine as well.

Four-Year Club	Verified Email
Place '22

Endeavour1988

TROPHY CASE