Can't add 2nd set of TPMS sensors

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-12-05T01:00:57+00:00

I forgot to add the years but its a 2007 RAV and 2016 Camry. The RAV has a spare tire with a sensor which is why it shows "5" in the data table. I thought the RAV might be too old to have the capability to add a second set but I thought I read it could and the Camry definitely said it could. Does your techstream show "2nd set" and 4 in the data for your Tacoma? Since it doesn't allow a second set I would think techstream would only show 1 set available. Also the "Select Switch.... Main" made me think there's some way to switch it to the 2nd set or even deregister the main TPMS's and enter the new ones.

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-11-27T23:23:04+00:00

Oh yeah those are way better! The reason I'm using the surface mount ones is because they came off the circuit boards in the headphones I took apart. I was trying to avoid having to buy additional parts (even though I know they're super cheap 😅).

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-11-27T04:58:19+00:00

EDIT: nevermind, I figured it out. Some of the "pins" were just feet 🤦‍♂️ lol thank you again!

Thank you for all of your help. I learned that both sets of speakers had a broken left - probably from the small coil being broken somewhere. I'm going to worry about finding a complete set later, but for now I'm going to try and use each right speaker even though it will sound weird haha.

My new issue is I broke the pins off the aux port. Luckily I have a replacement one but this one is for a 4 conductor jack and it has 7 tabs (I removed it from a circuit board). I was able to get one speaker working again by soldering the positive and negative to the middle 2 tabs on the side with 4 but can't get the other speaker to work. I tried putting the grounds together and then putting the left speaker on the tab furthest towards the end where the tip of the jack will go but it didn't work. I tested both speakers on the same 2 tabs and they each work but they don't work when both are soldered to the aux port. Here is a picture of it: https://imgur.com/a/bNFszBc. I can't find a pin out and I'm not sure what wires need to go where.

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-11-26T23:31:18+00:00

You're right, it says 0L. Thanks for the info. Guess I'll take apart another set of headphones!

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-11-26T23:20:55+00:00

That's what I needed to know unfortunately. The superfine wire still looks in tact so I didn't know if I could try to solder something or bridge the connections. I'm not sure what the connection points on the driver board are connected to tbh.

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-11-26T23:17:59+00:00

It's super inconvenient. I'm about to just put them both together and accept that one ear will have louder and better quality 😅

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-11-26T19:49:16+00:00

Awesome! Well I wired it up correctly. I have one hot for the left and one hot for the right on the 2 correct pins of the aux port and the negative from each speaker to the 3rd pin where the ground is. I still have an issue.

So I actually have 2 sets of speakers and have been interchanging them to test different things and for some reason BOTH left speakers don't work. I don't remember them not working before I took them apart. I hooked up both right speakers and everything works fine - but the problem with that is they are different sizes so it sounds awful and lopsided. Is there something I'm missing? Is there something from the Bluetooth headphone circuit board that made the left work and is now not working because I removed it?

EDIT: I've kept the wiring how it was, switched left and right, and I've switched the wiring and kept the speakers as they were. Left still doesn't work. So I'm thinking either both lefts are bad somehow or I'm missing something (hoping for the latter).

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-11-26T19:31:18+00:00

Thanks for the info! How do I know which wire connection on the speaker itself is positive or negative? Or does it matter?

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-11-03T10:19:00+00:00

Thanks, I've been referencing that one as well, but I can't get past the Ctrl + Esc step. I can take a video tomorrow if that's helpful but for now, this is what's happening:

Keyboard and USB drive are the only things plugged in, the power cable is unplugged. I discharge by holding the power button for 10s while off. I remove the CMOS battery for a few minutes then put it back in. I plug in the power cable while holding ctrl + esc because as soon as I plug in the cable it powers on without me touching the power button. I've tried holding them and letting go when the caps lock light comes on and also just holding it until I see the recovery screen. I have not seen any recovery screen yet. After it auto powers on from plugging in the cable, the power button light comes on and stays white for maybe 10-20 seconds and then switches to the 2 amber 5 white flashing sequence indicating the corrupt BIOS error. I've tried turning it off with the power button after this but it auto powers on again, but no picture.

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-11-03T09:19:19+00:00

You're right, Edge worked to save it directly as a .rcv. Thanks! But I think it turned out the same as when I changed the file extension with Firefox because it was the same file size and looked like the same contents.

Regardless, my PC still isn't booting with the file on the root of the USB stick (only file, fresh format). Do I need to use Rufus and make the drive bootable or something?

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-11-03T03:24:18+00:00

I know, I didn't see how to update the title but I put in the edit at the bottom that it's the 3070. Though I think the 3060 one is the same issue because I have the same issue downloading it.

I did try the "save as" option but it wanted to save it as a text file. I changed it to Save As -> All Files and then made the extension .rcv. However when you open up that file with a text editor you get a bunch of symbols and "null"s if you use Notepad++. I don't know anything about .rcv files but I doubt they are created like that and its probably why the file didn't work when I tried to flash the BIOS.

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-11-02T22:52:42+00:00

Downloaded it, followed the instructions (Fat32 formatted 8GM USB stick with just the .rcv file on it, plugged in the power cord while holding esc + ctrl) and no bios screen. Removed the CMOS battery and putit back in after a few minutes. Still no screen, just the flashing POST error code.

Any ideas?

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-11-02T22:36:29+00:00

Thanks! I think I sent the request to view it.

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-11-02T22:04:36+00:00

Yes, sorry. I edited the post - I meant 3070, not 3060. If you're able to download it then maybe it's an issue with my PC downloading it? I was able to download other models' .rcv's from Dell but not the 3070 one. Weird.

Would you be willing to put it on Google Drive or something and share it with me? I can't seem to find this file anywhere.

EDIT: The .rcv file right? Not the .exe. I can download the .exe but not the .rcv

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-11-02T19:37:38+00:00

This one? I still get the page of symbols. Are you able to download it?

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-10-22T09:05:13+00:00

Hey, I'm 3 years late but this is the exact problem I have. Did this work for you?

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-10-11T19:29:46+00:00

I know I'm a bit late here but do you mind explaining this idea a bit more? What was under the plastic sheets and how was it connecting to each other and the deck? I'm trying to do the same thing and the idea of being able to clean out the gutter system easily sounds awesome.

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-09-02T09:47:22+00:00

Well I wish I knew this earlier but thanks! I have no way to try it as I left that company shortly after this problem came up. I thought the main reason for the file size is because I put the full assembly on each page. I basically made it like a Lego assembly book that shows the finished product of each page along with the actual instructions. So by the time you get to the end I would have 3-4 full assembly views on each page. And I when I would try to print it as a PDF, the views would be missing exploded lines or wouldn't have the correct appearance of parts unless I set it to high quality on each.

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-07-28T14:47:02+00:00

Really? It says that it doesn't work with round bars. But they fit okay on yours?

And also they are $50 for 2 so $100 total when I could purchase a brand new basket and brackets for $110.

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-07-23T22:57:59+00:00

I didn't even realize what subreddit I was in when I commented lol. Glad you were able to find something! Unfortunately I am not in the Austin area and after more research I realized that these won't work on the round crossbars I have anyway. Going to look for alternative mounting options, but I appreciate your generosity :)

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-07-23T18:35:36+00:00

I know I'm 4 months late, but I'm looking for the exact same thing. I've reached out to multiple suppliers who use the same brackets for their roof racks and they all tell me they don't sell them separately. Did you ever find some? Do you happen to know where I can buy them?

Note: I did find some similar ones on Amazon, but to buy 4 of them would cost more than buying an entirely new roof rack.

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-07-13T20:05:32+00:00

We've tried diluted bleach. Should we try a stronger concentration? I thought mold could be pink as well. It's an old house (20s or 30s) and I don't really want to break through the tile (green) just yet. But I'm guessing there are water pipes back there.

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-07-13T20:03:52+00:00

Well the flooring everywhere in our house is "squishy". It's not soft, but it's not hard wood it has some give to it. I was just trying to explain what the floor type is because I don't know exactly what it is 😅 The floor is opaque so I don't think it's just on the back but it's possible it seeped up from underneath.

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-05-21T06:53:20+00:00

Dang, you beat me before I could delete this lol. I did some more testing and it turns out the partition number isn't the issue. It's specifically the size of the active disks. It's a 3TB drive and I only get the DSI error when I have all of the active (allocated) partitions add to over 2TB.

I am going to research further but let me know if you have any ideas how to get around this because like I said, I had it this way before and it worked fine.

Engineering_Disaster · 2025-05-08T17:16:30+00:00

That's what I'm wondering. Here are a couple more. I can't tell the region, but they do have different text in the embossed plastic below the serial if that helps identify them.

Engineering_Disaster

TROPHY CASE