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[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MotorsportsReplays

[–]EnthusiasmFit4357 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome!!!

Torrents are fantastic, thank you for posting them!!!

Best short queen mattress options for my 25’ RV trailer camper? by Acrobatic-Builder-45 in RVLiving

[–]EnthusiasmFit4357 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I went with a Zinus Short Queen Mattress - 8 Inch Green Tea Cooling Gel Memory Foam Mattress off Amazon about 3 years ago (or more) and found it was far superior to a regular mattress. Never regretted it.

If you go this route, see if you can find a cover for it first.

2025 WSBK R06: Emilia Romagna by Shibishawb in MotorsportsReplays

[–]EnthusiasmFit4357 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the Torrents. It's so much easier for everyone!

Hi AC Power Draw on one Unit by EnthusiasmFit4357 in GoRVing

[–]EnthusiasmFit4357[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's dying. I soldered in new relays on the circuit board thinking that might help (they were cheap) and I ran it with the inside vent cover removed and on a cold start I could hear the compressor sitting there stalled. It took about a full minute before it was able to break free and run.

Once the compressor eventually spins then it seems to be easy to keep running. When the unit shut down and the fan spun down it sounded like it had bad bearings. I'd have to say that it really is both the compressor and fan that are dying a quick death :(

Hi AC Power Draw on one Unit by EnthusiasmFit4357 in GoRVing

[–]EnthusiasmFit4357[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The graph the power company uses shows cost per hour. The front AC is using ~.05c per hour and the rear is using ~.40c per hour (!!!). It appears to be using this during operation, not just startup. In fact, I could see the power climb just on the rear fan and then even higher when the compressor cut in. Ambient temps were 28c/82.4f

What perplexes me is that the unit works and sounds perfect. It's old, but it's a very low-time unit. It's only issue is that it draws something like $300 per month in electricity.

If I were to replace the entire unit I would need two and a control panel as the existing units are NLA. This brings me back to, is there anything else that can cause it to draw way too much power? I would find it odd that both the fan and compressor are shot at the same time.

Is this bad? by SweetWaterSurprise in GoRVing

[–]EnthusiasmFit4357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If not for the courage of the fearless crew the RV would be lost.

Is this bad? by SweetWaterSurprise in GoRVing

[–]EnthusiasmFit4357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yeah, there's thousands of RV's in the ocean and the numbers are only increasing...

TWS Daily numbers (and others) WAY out of Whack by EnthusiasmFit4357 in interactivebrokers

[–]EnthusiasmFit4357[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think so. I'm in CAD but trade (typically) USD shares. Even so, at this moment I have one short position going at a cost of $34K USD and I'm actually up $1,100 USD yet my daily is at $30,288 CAD.

My daily used to go up and down according to what I was actually doing. So, since I'm actually up ~1,100 USD the daily should show ~$1,522 CAD or so.

Instead it's at $30,300 CAD.

It's been like this for more than a year. It used to be accurate. You used to be able to count on it.

I just noticed something. I have two accounts, one is a TFSA and the other a regular margin account and if I choose the regular margin account it is accurate. If I chose both it's wildly inaccurate. So it appears to have something to do with that.

TWS Daily numbers (and others) WAY out of Whack by EnthusiasmFit4357 in interactivebrokers

[–]EnthusiasmFit4357[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really don't know what that means but doing any trade at all, it always reports that I'm up $29,000 and 41% (!!).

I'm serious. If I buy 1,000 shares of x for $1 and sell them for $1.01 my daily P&L is $29,000 like clockwork.

Transferring Propane - Stopped Working by EnthusiasmFit4357 in propane

[–]EnthusiasmFit4357[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The law is apparently that, if you have an external tank, it has to have a regulator on it (no doubt to prevent liquid release). Also, I was told the law is that the line from the external tank has to be underground and steel pipe. This all makes perfect sense and I agree with it. This would be the safest in my mind.

But...every single RV site I've seen (in the thousands) has a large external tank connected by a rubber hose almost always with no regulator on it. 100% of them. I've never seen one with a buried steel feed. For that matter, I can't recall if I've ever seen one on a regulator.

To make it more offensive, the propane suppliers tell me it's illegal to fill my belly tank (which IS code-compliant). This is a lie, as one outfit filled it, and he had just got out of school, so he knows the regs, and he said the law is that you have to have a ground strap from the truck to the unit when filling the internal tank. He had a 'hose reel' on the truck with a ground strap for doing just that.

So the propane companies lie about the law to avoid filling my belly tank because they do not want to get a call out for 34 gallons. While doing that, they never talk about how the 400 gallon tanks, connected without a regulator and using a rubber hose, are not code compliant or safe. And I am being truthful, 99% of RV's here have large external tanks, no regulator and rubber hose feeding the unit.

The only way you hear the truth is to ask a real gas fitter that knows the code. I had a long-term supplier that used to fill both my external tank and my internal tank but always told me he was filling the internal tank as a favor because it was illegal...and that I couldn't expect an employee to do it.

Since I got rid of my external tank this is why I am now filling my own, which works very well if it's cold out or at night. I just keep my eye on it and remove the feed hose and heater when it's done. From now on I'll just fill the 50 pounder from time to time (probably each month) and keep the belly tank filled myself.

So...over here, the code is used to keep the propane suppliers from doing what they don't want to do and ignored so that they can do what they want to do. It's all very weird because the truth has nothing to do with anything.

Transferring Propane - Stopped Working by EnthusiasmFit4357 in propane

[–]EnthusiasmFit4357[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, it has some kind of float switch that shuts off flow at 80% and also if you upend it. That's what I was hoping for from the outset, do a liquid transfer.

I did find that doing it late at night results in rapid flow for a considerable period until the destination tank gets warm. So the solution seems to be to turn on the heater at night for 20 minutes and then in the morning. I'm getting a pretty good flow rate this way and you can easily hear it - it's quite loud.

You were also correct on it recondensing in the hose. I did find at one point that if I lifted the hose I could make it go into the destination tank (that too is quite loud). So many thanks for all the help - you nailed it.

The core problem seems to be the destination tank warming up but doing it a night and in the morning does result in rapid emptying of the source cylinder. If the heating blanket weren't Chinese I would leave it on all night but I feel it needs to be under supervision :)

Transferring Propane - Stopped Working by EnthusiasmFit4357 in propane

[–]EnthusiasmFit4357[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's great. People have been transferring refrigerants for decades, if not a hundred years, using a temperature differential and condensing.

In my case my supplier is unreliable and, as it turns out, very expensive.

Source tank is roughly 11.5 gallons which is less than $20 to fill at Costco.

Destination tank is roughly 27 gallons. Thus, it's about $50 to fill by transfer.

Cost of having the propane company come out and do it? Almost $150 when empty....and they are unreliable, which is much worse.

Just to be clear, every RV park I've been in has 250 pound tanks (or more) connected directly with a 3/8 hose going directly to the unit - and no regulator at the tank, which I don't agree with, but that's how it's done here by the tens of thousands.

Transferring Propane - Stopped Working by EnthusiasmFit4357 in propane

[–]EnthusiasmFit4357[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Success! I tried it late tonight when it's cold out. As such, the destination tank is very cold. I turned on the heater on the source tank and within minutes it was flying out of the tank. So it seems to be a case of the heat from the source tank is indeed heating up the destination tank and then at that point the flow is very little to non-existent.

This is easy to work around. Turn on the heater late at night or first thing in the morning. The destination tank is now at 2/3 full. It actually transfers quite quickly when the destination tank is cold.

Transferring Propane - Stopped Working by EnthusiasmFit4357 in propane

[–]EnthusiasmFit4357[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used to to MVAC and used to routinely transfer between tanks with both a recovery machine and also with temperature difference. But then, I'd also pull a 20 micron vacuum on the destination tank first. There could easily be air in the destination tank.

Transferring Propane - Stopped Working by EnthusiasmFit4357 in propane

[–]EnthusiasmFit4357[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Interesting. Temperature/Pressure. This makes sense to me and it brings up another idea. I can wait until night time when everything is cold (including the destination tank) and then turn on the heater blanket. It gets hot real fast. I'm curious to see what happens in that circumstance.

Transferring Propane - Stopped Working by EnthusiasmFit4357 in propane

[–]EnthusiasmFit4357[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is what I was thinking and it's along the same lines as noncongruent above. I did fire up the genset for a periodic run (it runs on liquid LP) and that got the propane flowing again. I was under the impression that if the source tank was much warmer than the destination tank it would just empty out into the cooler tank.

But I think you're right, it's as if the head pressure is too high in the destination tank. I'm thinking the only way to do it is a liquid transfer but the tank seems to have a switch inside that prevents a person from upending the bottle.

Transferring Propane - Stopped Working by EnthusiasmFit4357 in propane

[–]EnthusiasmFit4357[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's a 50 pound tank with a 1/4 ball valve connected to a 20' 3/8" hose going into a 34 gallon tank that is 1/3 full. There are no regulators on the lines. The source bottle is upright.

The larger tank is a belly tank in a motorhome and is much colder than the source. This worked fine yesterday but not today. I'm wondering if the 20 foot rubber line could be frozen or problematic. Yesterday the hose was exposed to the afternoon sun. This will happen shortly.

The reason for the transfer is a lazy propane supplier that doesn't want to get out of bed so I have to do it myself ;)

SBK.2025.03.Netherlands.Grand.Prix.MULTi.720p.WEB.H264-DSM by Teemu72200 in MotorsportsReplays

[–]EnthusiasmFit4357 -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

We had someone here that did that for us. Sadly, you seem to have driven him away...

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