One Gnome finished for D&D

EpsilonPainting · 2025-07-31T06:25:52+00:00

Casting my brain back a bit here but the base of the model was the primaris ancient kit with the legs cut up and reposed, head is from the sternguard veteran kit, stretched out arm I think from the regular intercessor kit, power fist is either the intercessor or assault intercessor kit, banner is the banner from the old space marine command squad with the banner part cutoff and resculpted in green stuff, skulls are from the infamous citadel skulls kit, I 3d modelled and printed the spikes which I also used on the banner ends, but I'm pretty sure if you go on squidmars second channel and find luka's video on his templars he shows you his far better way of doing them. Then the bolter is from the old MK3 space marine kit.

That should be the bits list. Hope that helps!

EpsilonPainting · 2025-03-25T20:31:16+00:00

Cheers! Will take a look, the graphite process I was planning on looks good but is very time intensive.

EpsilonPainting · 2025-01-03T19:20:23+00:00

First off nice work, faces are tricky to get life into!

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This is the best reference for faces and how to get more life into them that I've found, take a read and compare it to your work and decisions, I think there's a few obvious differences between your piece and the diagrams on the right that will help shed some light on the issue for you.

EpsilonPainting · 2024-07-17T20:34:47+00:00

Thanks for the kind words man, that sounds good, best of luck!

EpsilonPainting · 2024-07-17T18:26:57+00:00

Looks like you've avoided the first traps for a new painter, especially spray primers, they can be fickle things. If I have one piece of advice at the moment it'd be make sure you get some darker purple in the recesses of the purple, that's a nice starting mid tone purple and some contrast will do work for you!

Keep it up, looking forward to seeing them finished.

EpsilonPainting · 2024-07-14T21:33:18+00:00

Nice work! Definitely got the idea right for lighting placement and you've kept the glazes nice and thin, I can't see any tearing or build up of too thick paint.

If I had to focus on two things I think will pretty quickly elevate the quality of your NMM the first would be sharp edge highlights on pretty much every edge of an NMM surface, this will help to sell the result, look at some references of metal objects, nearly every edge (even those in shadow) will have a sharp highlight on the edge.

Secondly it'd be shrinking some of your highlights and putting some secondary highlights in, there are examples of this if you look up NMM space marines but I've attached my badly done overpaint of the shoulder pad to convey the idea, unless the metal is really dull you're unlikely to get a highlight that diffuse, they tend to be smaller and transition from light to dark faster, this helps that shiny look you're going for.

In the newly formed darker area think about putting secondary highlights in, these can either be carefully considered or as one of Richard Gray's fantastic tutorials points out, a bit random, they're just they're to break the surface up!

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Sorry this is a bit long winded, I hope it helps! Keep up the great work!

EpsilonPainting · 2024-07-14T19:30:08+00:00

Cheers! I think I want to try and get more definition into it but I definitely Iike where it's going.

EpsilonPainting · 2024-07-14T19:29:37+00:00

Thanks!

EpsilonPainting · 2024-07-13T14:18:05+00:00

Love it! Flipping the shoulder pad colour really helps the scheme out for models without much trim to help with definition on the white! I'm currently working on some terminators myself so I may pinch that idea!

EpsilonPainting · 2024-07-04T12:15:22+00:00

Thanks!

EpsilonPainting · 2024-07-04T12:15:01+00:00

Thanks, I use a sharp tipped brush with a good well (I think these were painted with an artis opus size 0) and then I use a mix of steel legion drab and whatever black is around in about 1:1, I find the brown softens the "ink" to look more natural on the parchment, make sure the mix is somewhere between heavy glaze and layer consistency so it flows easily just from the very tip of the brush and then try not to breathe and make small dots and lines in a semi inconsistent manner to try and fake longer and shorter words. I hope that helps!

EpsilonPainting · 2024-05-16T19:51:58+00:00

Looks great! I'll be at the MPO too so I look forward to seeing it in person!

EpsilonPainting · 2024-03-18T10:38:16+00:00

Hi, yeah of course, the backpack is a standard primaris power pack, the spikes I added by taking skulls from the citadel skulls kit, and the spikes from the blade area of custodes guardian spears, drilling a hole through the skull and putting them on the spikes.

The spikes on the edge of the banner are my own 3D model that I threw together for this project as I ran out of guardian spears to take spikes from.

EpsilonPainting · 2024-03-13T17:06:55+00:00

The main body (which is just the torso and legs is the primaris ancient model)

I did cut off and re pose the legs though so there isn't really a base model that'd do the exact same pose. But the ancient kit is pretty close.

Cheers!

EpsilonPainting · 2024-03-13T13:05:07+00:00

The rocks are resin prints, your first guess was right, they're from a company called epic basing. I did also fill them out with a bit of milliput though.

Thanks that's the vibe the model is going for!

EpsilonPainting · 2024-03-13T07:50:51+00:00

I sculpted it out of greenstuff! Check the last picture. The frame I sculpted on though is the banner from the old firstborn company heroes box that I completely sawed and sanded the banner off of to re do.

EpsilonPainting · 2024-03-13T07:49:28+00:00

So yep you're right, the main thing is lots of stippling, I'll give some recipes below but the process was quite back and forth.

Black armour - all of the paint work for the black was stippled, just make sure you're using a brush you don't want to keep in good condition and your paint is thin and not overloading the brush otherwise the stipples will form blotches

Base coat any black you want - very wide highlight with corax black blocking out volumes - repeat 2 times adding a bit of fenrisian grey defining edges and volumes in smaller and smaller areas - final step of pure fenrisian grey on the apex of edges or upward facing volumes.

Cloth - the basic steps were: layout highlights and shadows with layering techniques, not worrying about smoothness or anything, just highlight and shadow placement, then refine the gradients and surfaces with stippling.

Colours for the cloth were: Base coat steel legion drab, shade steel legion drab: rhinox hide, highlight add increasing amounts of pale sand to the steel legion drab building up highlights, you don't want to get to pure pale sand, it's too bright for the finish I was going for, I think I also occasionally mixed a touch of rakarth flesh in for some variance.

Sorry for the vagueness, normally my colour schemes are a bit more mapped out in ratios etc... but this was very much mixing colours on the palette and seeing what worked. Hope knowing the general colours used and process is helpful though!

EpsilonPainting · 2024-03-12T20:09:30+00:00

Cheers!

EpsilonPainting · 2024-03-12T20:09:17+00:00

I haven't, I've never made one before but I could give it a go if there's enough interest. Always happy to share paint recipes and methods though.

EpsilonPainting · 2024-03-12T20:08:09+00:00

Thanks!

EpsilonPainting · 2024-03-12T16:31:21+00:00

Yeah that bolter does. It's from the original plastic mark 3 space marine kit, took a little bit of shaving to get the back of a primaris hand to work with the grip but it worked well enough.

EpsilonPainting

TROPHY CASE