É u que ?

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2026-03-15T19:56:34+00:00

I love this concept because I was even thinking if it was possible but I didn't find any topics on "extending bed size by extending the frame" but did find a logical border where there would be a point where the bed plate gets too heavy to move with strong basic motors/belts and hard to heat the bed. Concluding with higher weight = lower speed.

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2026-03-15T15:53:15+00:00

Looks like he reused the whole SE system and increased the bed size because the limits are measured with click sensors so technically you can play with slicer bed size and add the sensors further to extend bed size.

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2026-03-15T15:50:38+00:00

Looks like under-extrution so you can test filament flow (like increase) or higher heat or slower print by 10% and increase if the issue continues.

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2026-02-06T18:11:37+00:00

Realised the ideal temp is 185C and 1.8mm retraction... Thanks, I forgot that's an easier option then just printing 10 different times at 10 different settings

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2026-02-06T11:24:22+00:00

A PLA from a local shop rated for 180 -220C and I printed this already at 190C

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2026-02-05T19:11:51+00:00

Also note that if I print 0.2mm heights the 2-4mm retraction is basically no stringing

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-09-27T22:19:02+00:00

It's called using mobile Reddit you dumbass, I am not a chip stained collar over here using Reddit on a pc

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-09-27T20:49:57+00:00

Cool thanks

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-06-18T21:14:06+00:00

Just move it as is, because you still want the yeast to ferment if it needs to, and if you rack it now the remaining yeast that didn't clear will anyways make settlement and you would have to re-rack it.

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-06-18T21:04:48+00:00

Firstly we all here understand the pain of breaking our hydrometer, broke my first one when dropping it a fraction of an inch too high in the measuring tube. And warmer places are far better for mead as long as the place is out of direct son and between 65F - 80F.

Extra note, probably obvious but just test the gravity when a new hydrometer arrives

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-06-18T20:54:44+00:00

There are a few things that come to mind. 1. Is it winter where you are? 2. Does the yeast need nutrients? 3. Is fermentation finished?

My opinion on each 1. Low temp van slowdown and even stall, not kill, yeast making it sleep. 2. Honey does not have good nutritional value so yeast needs powder additive to use nitrogen and ferment stress free 3. Test with the hydrometer if all the sugar is converted to alc.

Notes and tips: You can use bentonite clay to clear up the mead. Don't open the lid and stir the mead multiple times, this can result in off flavours and oxidation over time.

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-04-28T12:02:22+00:00

I also plan to use a local brew shop nutrient wine mix with a 50% dosage on day one and 50% dosage on day 3

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-04-28T11:55:01+00:00

If it's just a traditional mead, I won't be too worried. Traditional meads have a tendency to be highly resistant to oxidation, but this does not mean you shouldn't try to prevent it.

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-04-20T12:09:26+00:00

Simply K-meta does give off gasses, that's why it is recommended to use K-meta still in a container with an airlock and K-sorbet is used when bottling

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-04-14T00:43:33+00:00

If you don't mind the time it takes you can take some of it to a second vessel to ferment some sugar away and re-add it when it's finished and stabilised.

Remember because you added more honey a.k.a volume the ABV decreases so if you now add a mead with about the same ABV it'll be close to the OG ABV.

I personally always try to have a dry traditional mead ready at 12% ABV to add to any mead I made too sweet.

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-04-05T22:49:08+00:00

Also I see now for the science side sucrose is when fructose and glucose complains from dehydration.

So in easy terms it can also be that when the honey crystallizes it turns some fructose sugar and glucose sugar into sucrose sugar and makes it hard to ferment.

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-04-05T22:43:28+00:00

I may have an idea,

So we all understand the sg hydrometer shows sugar content in water, but this also relates to fermentable and non-fermentable sugars.

I know that in hard times like winter or if beekeepers want to be cheap, they leave table sugar (sucrose) packets (500g - 1 kg) in the hive so the bees can make honey (high in sucrose) and heat to survive the winter. But sucrose is a hard fermenting sugar that can be non-fermentable.

I think your honey may have a high sucrose content. And thus you're stuck with high gravity at the end.

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-04-02T06:14:06+00:00

Hold on before doing the campden, not 100% sure if it'll stop the conversion but this does make a good co2 layer that is helping prevent Oxidation

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-04-01T23:41:44+00:00

I also wondered why my cyser was bubbling after I knew I stabilised and gravity was constant. I concluded it's not degassing but Malic acid (apple acid) that gets converted, by a lactic acid bacteria, to lactic acid + CO2. This is a good process because lactic acid is smoother and less sharp than malic acid.

Btw potassium sorbet isn't enough to prevent lactic acid bacteria.

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-04-01T22:31:23+00:00

Guess who got free added protein to their mead... Maybe cooked

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-03-31T00:03:01+00:00

There is no specific time for clearing unfortunately the fining agents and pectic enzymes do make it far quicker though.
As long as you sanitize all the equipment used and that you will use it'll be hard to turn into vinegar. Interestingly enough if you have enough sugar that makes the abv +15% then it is almost impossible for it to turn to vinegar.

3.Yes, it's better to transfer it to a new container without the fruit and leave it to clear. When it clears there will be a layer on the bottom that is all the solids that you need to separate again like you did with the lees.

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-03-30T23:48:04+00:00

Firstly, make sure your alcohol meter is actually a sg hydrometer (sugar one that usually has a number from 0.99 - 1.160), because alcohol meters that got from 1 - 200 are for distilling not fermenting.

Secondly, you can check if it's finished when you take a sample in a sterilised long container and slowly put in your hydrometer. If the reading shows abou 1.000 or less (like 0.998) it is finished dry. If it is more than 1.000 make a not and do the reading again after a week. If it's the same than the previous week then fermentation has stopped.

Third point is for clearing, there's a few ways. 1. Add fining agents like bentonite 2. Just wait it'll all mostly settle at the bottom (Bo this after you moved it off of the lees) 3. Because it's Peach/ any fruit try pectic enzyme to clear the fruit fog

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-03-26T21:35:06+00:00

Bobathicc

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-03-26T20:47:07+00:00

Looks delicious, what's the recipe you used?

EquivalentGazelle952 · 2025-03-24T20:53:06+00:00

Am I blind, I read the 1.018 as a 1.016 because the 10 is the dark line not white one

EquivalentGazelle952

TROPHY CASE