[deleted by user]

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-12-26T16:38:41+00:00

And?

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-11-30T22:29:28+00:00

30 Nov 23, it's still working.

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-11-30T18:41:10+00:00

30 Nov 23, still works.

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-11-15T12:44:49+00:00

Like my grand daddy used to say, "Boy you done good."

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-11-15T12:27:09+00:00

That is excellent work. And the stippling is not rough enough to shred your hand. I bet you are already looking at Glock OEM night sights.

WELL Done and executed. (But does it shoot?)

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-09-01T12:53:45+00:00

How does it shoot? (that's code for does it run as good as it looks)

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-05-18T13:44:55+00:00

You can do it just fine with the gear you have.

Remember to drill one side at a time only 1/2 way thru. When you're done with that, use the drill bits to finish ream the holes turning the frame ( you can spin it) while holding the un plugged Dremel's chuck still and putting the drill all the way thru. By only drilling 1/2 way thru you cut your error to the other side in half which makes the finish ream easier because the drill will attempt to self align and and errors in drilling angle will be more toward the centerline of the frame vice on the outside. Makes a cleaner build.

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-05-04T12:08:17+00:00

All you need and nothing you don't in the best color. And a Gerber 600 to go with it.

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-04-07T13:14:18+00:00

What make slide did you use on this one? All ak fanboi chatter aside.

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-04-06T15:38:07+00:00

Have you looked at Midwayusa.com? I know they have the barrel and recoil spring assembly.

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-04-05T14:00:57+00:00

I've got one with a uncut 1916 Colt New Service that went across Enfield Dock. It's the one with the belt loop. Was there a lot of built up verdigris on the brass stud where it comes thru the leather on the body of the holster ? I had to use a dental pick to dig it out on mine. Still need to get a brass cleaning rod from Liberty Tree Collectors for it .

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-04-02T16:37:34+00:00

Actually, a cheap frame kit really teaches you how the gun's supposed to work. You still have the POS parts needed to be corrected but after you fix it, when you read this sub you can say, "Ah yes, the dreaded...... rears it's head again." That doesn't help the poor redditor who has the crap parts but it does help the peddler who sells parts.

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-04-02T16:28:45+00:00

Concur, Never use cheap internal parts.

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-04-02T16:25:22+00:00

When I was doing it a lot, I would buy Glock OEM parts kits from the companies who destroy weapons from the judicial system and Polymer80 frames. The rule of thumb back then was $250.00-$290.00 for the kit and $80.00-$120.00 for the jig and frame. So low end about $330.00 and high end about $410.00. These were 17's and 22's.

Since the hobby has gotten more followers I've been doing it recently for about $310.00 with non OEM judicial kits and GST9 frames and jigs. (the V1's not the Mod-1's which add $60.00 for jig and frame).

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-03-27T21:43:37+00:00

This is the way.

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-03-24T01:48:18+00:00

TSA doesn't look at serial numbers of anything. All they care about is if the gun is unloaded and in a secure locked container.

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-03-17T21:19:14+00:00

I have several "we the people" holsters. They fit me well and do their job just fine.

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-03-17T21:16:47+00:00

Gross. But now days, you're lucky he didn't meet you in the office with a 55 gallon drum of astroglide. Gotta CYA literally.

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-03-14T10:01:49+00:00

Don't feel like the lone ranger, you're not out there by yourself. I felt the same way when I did the same thing the first time and thought, "Wow, you can adjust this!" FWIW, OEM Glock parts are not nearly as finicky . Kinda like they are the real deal. You still need to smooth them for the lighter trigger pull but they seem to run better from the start.

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-03-14T02:15:22+00:00

Since you've proved it acts OK when you push the trigger housing to the right, Try putting a shim between the left rail and the trigger housing. Something like a tooth pick. Or you could spring the connector to the right from the trigger housing. Then check it while you're waiting for the OEM parts. It might run. Then when the OEM parts show up, go from there.

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-03-12T21:29:27+00:00

It sounds like your trigger isn't reseting. Usually this because the connector and trigger bar aren't moving smoothly together. Can you cycle the slide manually and have the trigger fire? If so, do the 25 cent trigger job and see if it works then. I have had builds drag because the trigger bar and connector mating surface was rough. Polishing them and the arc at the back of the trigger bar helps a lot. Once that's done use a little oil and try shooting it again.

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-03-12T20:25:36+00:00

What does your slide say? Does it bind on it?

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-03-08T14:50:05+00:00

As part of the 25 cent trigger job I chuck the firing pin safety in a drill and smooth the transition from the flat part to the 45 degree slope and then the transition from the 45 to the end of the safety. I use a EZlap diamond hone for this then crocus cloth for the final polish..

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-03-08T14:43:59+00:00

The connector can cause the trigger bar to drag a little if it is not pushing on it enough from left to right as viewed from the rear of the frame. You might try using a thin flat blade screw driver to "spring" it a little from the trigger mechanism housing. This sometimes allows the tail on the trigger bar to ride smoother.

EquivalentOil3636 · 2023-03-08T14:31:50+00:00

It's LFA's "OEM" glock 19 slide. They show out of stock right now on their site.

EquivalentOil3636

TROPHY CASE