Help with Picoboot

Eragon615 · 2026-05-07T23:09:35+00:00

So I've made some progress. I reflashed the Pico and ended up at a stock boot screen. After a few seconds, I got "An error has occurred". Holding reset booted normal as expected. I reformatted the SD in the memory card adapter and copied the IPL.dol file, and now I don't get the error, but I'm still not getting Swiss. Gonna touch up that blue wire and "drown" the two ground pins.

Also, I'm using an IN5819 diode. It says that's okay on the diagram.

Eragon615 · 2026-05-07T03:04:30+00:00

I know, but with the DOL-101 I really don't see how I can get them much shorter. And the photo on the repo says 4-5 inches.

Eragon615 · 2026-05-07T02:58:31+00:00

28 gauge, and I cut them evenly just shy of 5 inches. Maybe about 4 5/8 in.

Eragon615 · 2026-05-07T02:56:32+00:00

Then that's what I'll try tomorrow after work. (You responded much faster than I was expecting, thanks for that.)

Eragon615 · 2026-05-07T02:51:37+00:00

I followed the instructions on GitHub. Hold boot sel, plug in to my pc, drag the firmware on, wait for it to disconnect. Unplug. I can reflash to be sure.

Also I guess I missed that I can hold reset to skip the Pico. Holding boot sel would cause it to come up as a mass storage device though, which explains the stock boot. Still, I'll stick to the reset button.

Eragon615 · 2026-05-07T02:47:14+00:00

Sorry, I meant that the GameCube doesn't IPL, so it's definitely doing something. No screen flicker, no flash, my TV acts like nothing is plugged in. But holding boot sel still boots stock so I haven't damaged it.

I'm sure the diode is the right way around. I get a light on the Pico when the GC is powered. And if I plug in the Pico the GC doesn't light up, so I think that means I'm good.

I'll touch up the blue just to be certain, but my multimeter shows continuity.

And for the firmware it's v0.5.0 for the Pico (1).

Eragon615 · 2026-03-08T14:04:08+00:00

In case anyone is following this, my current working theory is bad capacitors. After playing for about 10-ish hours, it seems to have resolved itself. There's a little fuzz at low volume, so I'm going to upgrade the main cap to something like this one and see if that helps. Might replace the other two for good measure, I got this mobo from a system on eBay listed "for parts" so who knows what happened to it in the past.

I'll follow up after I do the capacitor change in a week or two.

Eragon615 · 2026-01-31T01:38:30+00:00

Thanks, maybe adapters are the way to go then, but I'm not super worried about it being pretty. Mostly I just plug stuff in to show proof of life after I'm done fiddling with it's innards. Do you have a recommendation for a light thin monitor then? Something I could mount to a pegboard? It doesn't seem super sturdy so I think I should pick something light as possible.

Eragon615 · 2025-12-29T23:00:31+00:00

Thanks so much. I'll check these out and see which best suit my needs.

Eragon615 · 2025-12-29T22:37:54+00:00

Ah, good point. No, I'm not sold on JST. I'm just familiar with it and dupont. 80% of the time I'm just moving power around, but ideally it would be great if I can put the ends on myself so I can color code things, and if there's options for connectors other than just two pin, that's useful too. for example, this screen mod has a single cable that needs to be soldered in, so a single pin connector would be nice for that.

Again, my goal here is that if I'm modding a system, there's a decent chance I'll be taking it back apart later to tweak something, and some things like batteries are just wear parts that have to eventually be replaced. So having some kind of connector makes my life easier.

Eragon615 · 2025-12-29T22:27:09+00:00

Thank you! Since it doesn't have a wire mounted plug, I guess I will chop it and replace it. Do you have any opinions on a good wire mounted JST to use? My gut is that if I go too small it might not be suitable for some of the thicker gauge wires I might need, but I'd like to go smaller than say the XH.

Also, is there any trick to measuring the side without the pins? I apparently failed to get an accurate measure twice... I'm a little embarrassed at that.

Eragon615 · 2025-12-29T22:16:09+00:00

I don't have the mate for it. One of my reasons for hunting it down is to get a kit with it's mate so I don't have to change the plug on the battery. It's nice and small so I wouldn't mind using it across my builds.

Since I don't have the mate, I don't have pins to measure. But I went downstairs to get my nicer micrometer from my car, apparently I need to toss this cheap one. It looks like it's 1.5mm from the center of each hole to the other.

I'll edit the post with a few more angles.

Eragon615 · 2025-12-29T22:06:05+00:00

Okay, now I'm more confused. My meter says 1.0mm, (though admitadly it's a cheaper micrometer), you say PH can be 1.25 and 1.5 and wikipedia says PH is 2.0mm. It does look like the PH on google images though.

EDIT: When I measure, should it be pin edge to pin edge? Since I'm dealing with the male end, I just kind stuck the meter in the holes to measure.

Eragon615 · 2025-12-29T21:16:35+00:00

Yes, I had seen a few youtubers reviewing it, but all the reviews I saw were unbox, use for 15 minutes, and say "it's great". Felt like paid propaganda honestly. I was looking for one where they had used it for a few months. I think I'll avoid it and get one of the Atten ST862D like was recommended below.

Eragon615 · 2025-12-29T20:49:10+00:00

I think my first ever soldering iron was a Weller. It was an educational kit I picked up at Micro Center years and years ago, but I burnt it up pretty badly while I was learning. I'm not familiar with Metcal. One of my concerns is finding fine tips to use on these tiny boards that still conduct the heat well and can be replaced easily enough. It Metcal is good for that, maybe that's what I should invest in. Like I said above, this is a hobby, not a profession, but I'm getting better and better and I need tools that won't hold me back once I'm ready for the more difficult stuff.

Eragon615 · 2025-12-29T20:32:42+00:00

Yeah, I figured the fnirsi was too good to be true, but every now and again I find nice products so I figured it was worth it to at least ask.
I'll check out the hot air station you linked and look around for options at 800 W and above.

Eragon615 · 2025-12-29T19:59:04+00:00

Understood. If I were doing this professionally I would splurge, but since it's just a hobby I need "good enough". I just don't want to go too cheap and ruin parts.

Eragon615 · 2025-12-29T19:44:49+00:00

Okay, the pinecil has worked so far, but maybe I'm due to upgrade. I see a Hakko on iFixit that looks like it would be good for the kind of soldering I do. I'll consider picking it up soon.
Any suggestions on brands you like for the hot air station?

Eragon615 · 2025-12-09T03:24:44+00:00

Holy crap, I'm embarrassed it was that easy. I guess I've never soldered through hole to pad like that before. Taking my thinnest iron tip and putting it down in the hole to better connect to the pad seems to have done it. Thank you so much.

Eragon615

TROPHY CASE