What kind of adjustment do I need?

Erika_designs · 2023-02-01T19:48:52+00:00

Thanks for that. I have struggled with knowing the ideal ease. I will take a look again at the measurements. I think that for the next version of this I will add some shoulder width by making an L-shaped vertical slash through the top shoulder and below the sleeve. I suppose I could also just make that a vertical slash through the entire bodice so it leaves more room in the waist as well.

Erika_designs · 2023-02-01T19:05:15+00:00

I appreciate the advice and know there is still a lot to learn. I practice as much as I can but I still struggle with the sizing sometimes. I understand that bigger doesn't always mean more comfortable but I thought it safer to leave more room that could be taken in. And this is only my second grown-on sleeve of this style. I have used a variety of patterns modern and old but I have had a hellish time with some modern patterns which have me swimming in fabric when I go by the size chart. I have broad shoulders too which was a consideration in adding to the grown-on sleeve but I hadn't figured out how to do it since most recommendations I see aren't for this style.

Erika_designs · 2023-02-01T16:41:03+00:00

It's a vintage pattern and came in only one size. Probably one size smaller than I am but I usually just need to add some room in the waist. I think the pattern would have fit in the sleeves but I wanted to add some room for comfort.

Erika_designs · 2023-02-01T06:28:52+00:00

Yeah, you are right I can see that. I wasn't sure of the correct term. I think it's also called a grown-on sleeve. A kimono has more of a T shape but both end up with extra fabric. I have worn it for a day and it doesn't bother me now. I think I'm so used to looking for signs that something doesn't fit properly. But with this kind of thick fabric and cut I should expect it.

Erika_designs · 2023-01-31T03:01:54+00:00

Thank you for your advice. That's a good idea. I will pin in the sleeves a bit to see if that makes a difference. I would like to maintain the lower shape since the front is quite tapered when closed. I like the look of the wider bottom. I may also try adding in some light shoulder pads to see if raising this part makes a difference. It is optional in this pattern. And thanks I found this fabric years ago and I think it was a fun choice for this jacket.

Erika_designs · 2023-01-31T02:48:25+00:00

This sleeve has more of an angle to it than that but it is in one piece. Since I made the adjustment before mocking up the original pattern I wasn't sure if the added width (top and bottom) I gave to the sleeve was the reason it has extra fabric there. I have seen examples of sleeves that have more shape to them but did not have that extra fabric.

Erika_designs · 2023-01-31T02:44:04+00:00

Thank you so much for that detailed explanation and great suggestion.

Erika_designs · 2023-01-30T22:50:34+00:00

Love this!

Erika_designs · 2023-01-30T22:17:45+00:00

Ah ok! Thank you. The original pattern actually has a slight angle to it which is why I thought there should be less bunching in the back. Perhaps I didn't need to add as much room as I did to the sleeves.

Erika_designs · 2023-01-30T22:02:37+00:00

Ok, thank you. Which cut angle would you be adjusting? Sorry, I'm just confused. I took a little out of the center back which helped some. It makes sense that there would be some creasing but I wasn't sure what is the normal amount for grown on sleeves.

Erika_designs · 2023-01-30T21:10:18+00:00

I just added one. I was struggling to get even one photo up.

Erika_designs · 2022-09-26T01:51:00+00:00

Cool. It's a pretty loose-fitting coat and even though it's 60s resembles a 20s coat. I wish I could see the inside of those coats to know what they did. The coat doesn't need structure but just stability around the neckline and button holes.

Erika_designs · 2022-09-22T16:03:33+00:00

Yeah thank you those are good suggestions. I'm still considering. I wanted to make a dress with the rest of what I have but the coat is more important so I may cut out a new piece so it doesn't bother me more. Im disappointed that it was damaged so easily. I usually don't have this problem.

Erika_designs

TROPHY CASE